rodwc

Don`t know if we will ever see a, "Heritage" with a white dial . Maybe it will look something like this ? I only know about 10% of the features in Photoshop.

Fully agree, to the 2 above posts, the lume and AR. are tops.

You got it in one, the appreciation, the thanks, the return offer. Nothing else needed. Cheers Guys.

Only the hands and 5 minute dot markers have lume. There is no lume on the second hand and stick markers.

Best not say too much "64bit". Hush, Hush, wink, wink, say n`more.

Nice put to-gether story of the event. Watches look great, food looked delicious and a good time was had by all. Thanks.

That`s a case..... BACK......... only guys. NO CASE !

OK, they are done. A "Baker`s Dozen", will be in the post on Monday, as soon as I have your address. ( PM me ). I have included 7 coil springs, ( usually these don`t get lost, as they stay in the hole.) Could you please contact Sir-Lancelot, as he needs a couple, and send them to him from your end. Just giving something back here. Cheers Rod.

Still waiting for someone to get back to me here. My sub. has this arrangement, steel pellet sits on top of the spring, in a hole approx. 0.80" dia. The actual sizes are not critical, one end of the pellet sits in the spring, the other end acts as the click on the bezel. When the click end becomes worn, just reverse it , into the spring.

Difficult and sticky subject. The stuff that I send and receive, are marked, " Fashion Accessory ". Touch wood,nothing has gone wrong so far.

If you think the leather and rubber straps are great, wait till you wear it on a mesh strap. All personal choice , I suppose. Thanks. http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=69779

Ok..........I will stick my neck out here. Yes , I have seen the part you refer to, and nearly lost mine when trying to tighten the bezel up. Only I read the post when pugwash said, " take the bezel off, with the watch in a glass or plastic bowl", so as you dont loose the spring and the steel pellet". I have a Shaublin 70 lathe, and can and will make up a small no. of these parts, for you , in steel . I am assuming they are all the same size?????? I will measure mine and post the sizes. Please give me some indication of how many are needed, and please, don`t someone say 1000, ++ I said a lathe , not a turret lathe.

No pics, show here , says, " moved or edited".

Wot Ring? Taught it was a square.

Wot..............the watch or the service?

This thread keeps popping up. Could it go on for another 7 days ?

I realised that with the collection growing, somewhere was needed to store the watches. This is just a project, I am sharing, as I go along. Had seen some nice storage boxes on the net, around $350 for one of a decent size ( 20 ). Problem was they could only be ordered in quantities of 300 ! Also, importing anything made of wood into Australia is somewhat difficult, owing to quarantine laws, and restrictions. I have had a number of distressed music boxes,hanging around for years, which I was going to get round , some day to restoring. Being realistic, I realised that, this fact , wasn`t about to happen,any time soon. The box I am working on measures 18" x 10" x 6" high, with the top veneered in Rosewood. ( big enough for a 2 story storage box ) The size was perfect, but realised that this was going to take quite a bit of time, and costwise doing this myself was going to cost a small fortune, mainly in time, effort and materials. No matter what the outcome, the actual box could still be used to re-house the music box movement, should I ever decide to do the movements, as nothing was going to be cut out. This may serve as some help, to anyone considering the same thing, with any box. I decided to finish the box in Shellac, as it is quite versatile in use. Started sanding the top and ebonised edges, with 200 grade paper. This has to be done with a cork sanding block, as the rosewood veneer is paper thin. Instead of filling in any missing veneer with some of the exotic woods, ( kingwood,satinwood,fruitwood,ebony etc) I used colored filler,.... quick easy, and able to be color matched with the original. Being a little impatient, I wanted to see what it would look like with a coat of shellac over. Used a rubber to apply the shellac, ( a very fine haired brush could be used ). Then I went over the Orange shellac, with a few coats of Blond de waxed shellac,this is clear, ( also thicker,and fills the voids in the grain fairly quickly, also it dries faster.) The final finish will be a cut back satin finish, finished with a coat of wax. As the process of "french polishing" is a time consuming affair, some pics were taken of the progress so far. This is not going to happen fast, so I will post each stage as I go along. The shellac has to dry at least overnight, and even then it is still "settling" into the grain. Just the top has been worked on here,and as you can see there is HEAPS more to do yet. If there is anyone else done this kind of job before , would be most interested to see it. Will post more as I go along.

The best part about this whole "experiment", are the comments above. There are quite a few questions and answers which, to be frank, I never thought of. The main part to me ,was the consistancy of the lume being applied, coupled with the fact that I didn`t even know about the ultra fine pigments, and never considered mixing the pigment TO the binder , ( not vise versa ) I think that the applicator pen is great, but for our purposes, one or two dials here and there, would be too expensive. As this is all hobby based and not for a commercial venture, I am sure that a lot more knowledge can come from this , if members post their results, both GOOD and BAD. It takes "balls" to post an attempt which has turned out pretty bad, but from that bad effort can come learning for others. Sorry if I took any glory away Startibartfast , but I had no idea any one else was contemplating this. So now we all know the level of difficulty, and I for one will still experiment, as to me , this is still a challenge. "I know you guys haven't seen/used the top grade media, but would a better product give you a big increase in results?" Good question,......... my answer is ,at this stage , I don`t know. "do you think that an artistic bent, or training would assist? Much?" Think that it would be a definate plus to start with, but then with practice and application, experience would come atomatically. I have seen some ceramic antique dial restorations done here in Melbourne, and the restorer is a woman in her late 40`s she has taught herself the materials and application, and the results are totally brilliant. We have seen the results ,The Zigmeister turns out, that is the level to aspire to. I believe it can be done, and from someone fom this board.

Part 2. It`s nice and rewarding to achieve sucess at the first attempt, in this case certain things have emerged, showing that this is not about to happen, without quite a few changes. Firstly , I found that the pigment crystals were far too coarse. Another member (possibly ssurfer)? mentioned this, back in Oct. 07. So they are going to need grinding down further, for application and mixing purposes. Imagine mixing fine sand with oil, then trying to apply that compound to a minute space. The actual size of the sand grains simply will not allow access to fine corners. It simply is not going to happen with any degree of sucess, and appearance. So this is going to come down to the consistancy of the media. The time factor, between mixing and applying is important, that is, mix the lume at the exact time you are going to apply it, even then, thinner is going to be needed to keep it in a fluent state. Even after 45 mins. the mix started to thicken. The Zigmeister mentioned in one of his post`s on luming that this media is "like painting with snot ". Quite an apt and descriptive term, but so far "Noctilumina" does not have that consistancy. It really doesn`t even "slide", to be able to push and cajole it into tight corners. At this stage , the luminecense is not glowing anything like , the 36 hours, stated. It glows beautifully, but does not , at this stage , LAST, for much more than 5 Mins. Maybe more pigment is required in the mix ? The patchy glow in the pic, shows a shortage of lume, and really, if any more was applied it would have too big a buld up. The hands , not being pierced are almost impossible to lume with any degree of neatness. These are some of the problems associated with trying out an unknown product. Maybe by posting these problems, a solution may be found to overcome any difficulties. In all honesty I have tried using this kit , to the best of my ability,and consider the results pretty poor. I really don`t think re-luming a dial (any dial) is a job for DIY. Considerable skill is required with the lume media, let alone placing it in the right position. I would not recommend anyone try this on ANY half decent watch, ( it will certainly be ruined ). So , am I disapointed, not really, I tried something and it didn`t work for me. Simply, you win some, you loose some, nothing ventured , nothing gained. Ho- Hum.............."such is life ". Save your money lads.

They give everyone wukin furries.

Am not trying to drag this out, believe me. I have only just got the kit, dis-assembled the watch, got all the tools together, wrote up the introduction, pics etc. and am working on the dial right now. I will attempt to post pics. when the lume. is applied, also lume shots. The lume takes 72 hours to dry, but hopefully everything will be up before then. Thanks for your patience.

This is not a post as to which is better, merley a comparisson between Noctilumina and Superluminova. Most of you have seen the results of the Superluminova ( on lume jobs ) from other members that have either had them done, or did the job themselves. I am a "hands on " person , I am willing to listen to any opinion on most things, I then make up my own mind and follow that path. If it turns out good, I feel satisfied and rewarded, if it turns out bad or indifferent, at least I have attempted to " do it my way ". ( Time is not a pre-requisite for me . ) After reading here the pro`s and con`s about Superluminova, price , application etc. and not being experienced or knowledgable on re-luming watch dials, I decided to take the Noctilumina path, both on price , availability and application. Noctilumina is priced at US $ 32.95 plus $22 shipping and handling , to Australia. I believe Superluminova is approx. US$ 90. plus shipping. This I did through Ebay. The package arrived this morning,the contents were well packaged and included instructions. The label on the outside of the box read, " Shake well before use " . I can`t tell you if this refers to the box or the whole box and contents itself, or just the contents!! A few pics, Tools etc., applicators, Lume Kit, Subject Dial. I will add Part 2,to the bottom of this post, when available. Didn`t have a Joe Blow, so used a Boy Blew instead. Ordinary oilers, sharpened toothpicks should also work just fine. This is an old dial, to practice on. ( It hasn`t ever been lumed before.Same as the hands .)

Yes, sized down to the minimum. Was holding my breath when I tried it, it is a perfect fit, not tight , not loose. I really think that with a 6.75" wrist, this would be perfect, for you. ( My wrist is 6.75", with no "meat"). Had a look at the Vollmer site and of the 2 , I still prefer the Staib, probably because of this type of deployant, also the visual difference, but I really like the thickness of the Vollmer at 4.5 mm. The clasp, for me is a little too Rolex. You would be amazed that at 46mm.( Heritage ) it really doesn`t look that big, and if I had a choice would love 49 mm . The price also at 100 Euro, A$ 175, is ,to me getting a bit high. I don`t speak German, but does that say it is, 22 mm, /20 mm/ 4.5mm.thick? ( the Heritage is 24 mm. lugs ).

Just received my new ss bracelet for the Heritage. German Made. 3.2 mm. thick They are very comfortable to wear, and very well made. ( these 2 sites are selling the same thing, 1 is $20 cheaper.) Available at http://www.chronoworld.com/new/product_det...?product_id=157 http://www.lonestarwatches.com/3.2Mesh.htm

Thank you. I admit that I am very upset with what I have heard from a few days ago. My feelings and emotions got the better of me. Sorry.