DemonSlayer

Thanks for your reply guys, Freddy your help is appreciated by many on this board including me WD40 in this case is not working. In fact I just found a post by a member who had this exact same problem on his VC Overseas bracelet. WD40 didn't do it for him either, instead he used a powerful lubricating penetrating oil which included teflon. After a couple of hours from applying, he managed to get the screws out. It seems like that I will have to try and get hold of that particular spray (it wont be easy, only sold in the US and to industrial customers).

I have a spare jubilee bracelet that has 1 extremely stubborn screw. I've thrown everything at it, heat, cold, WD40, oil etc. I'm a bit reluctant to try extreme methods on my favourite rep which happens to be my most expensive. I really thought heat would work because the screws on watch are so small, so the heat would transfer to the entire length of the screw easily, but it made no difference. I still don't know if its threadlock or corrosion.

Like most of us, I've hardly come across this problem. However my favourite watch and now my beater sadly suffers from this problem. All the screws on the bracelet are stuck. I tried heat yesterday (soldering iron) and they still didn't want to move. I didn't expect this from a watch which sells for upto $500 and whose quality is extremely high. I only need one link removed for it to fit like all my others, however I can live with it as it is. It is certainly wearable (just a little loose than I normally wear them). What I was curious to know is, what causes the screws to get stuck like this? Is there a risk that they can get stuck whilst in our possession and is there anything we can do to help prevent this? Also, please share your tips on effective methods you have used to remove these screws As always, all input is appreciated.

You're officially Sub nuts

Hey Corgi, I'm liking the Aquanaut, in fact I'm liking Patek Philippe...

It all depends on what rep it is. I used to buy cheap asian 21J reps and in high number. They were usually on average $100. Now I go for quality over quantity. I realised that I only need a few beautiful watches and I will be satisfied for years. So now I've almost finalized my collection, and you can say those few are 'super reps'. Average? $400 each.

Tastes do indeed vary... No suprise that some would find this model attractive, but to me it just looks like a fantasy rep. Now in person it may look completely different, but I still think I won't be too keen on this blue. To me the definitive color for the Submariner is black.

TeeJay, this is to give you some idea on the differences on the case size of a Pam and the Nautilus: Notice how thin the Nautilus is, this does wonders for its comfort. Its the most comfortable watch I've ever worn, even though its made of steel.

This watch looks like a fantasy rep to me

Good to hear brother Yes it does, the crown guard on PAMs really do make a difference in their size, and the dial does look smaller. It is suprising that the Nautilus is a jumbo size, because it doesn't really feel that big at all, to me it is the perfect sized wristwatch, and the thiness of it makes it really comfortable and allows it to fit under the cuff.

Thank you Freddy for the links and suggestion, I enjoyed reading your post when you restored your Datejust Nice job. TeeJay: Hope things are well The Nautilus wears a lot smaller than a PAM, its very thin (only 9mm) and extremely comfortable. However the asian 21J Nautilus I used to own was much thicker (I didn't get a measurement, sorry!).

Thanks for all opinions. Fakemaster: Can you please explain why you think it's not worth it? Is the difference really not that apparent? Is it another reason?

How do they work, as in how are they able to produce a sweeping motion with quartz? Won't it drain out the batteries really fast?

Hey guys, I have a chance to get a TW Datejust in the dial I have been looking everywhere for. I now have a bit of a dilemma. I can purchase the regular 'ETA' version for $200, but theres no guarantee that it will have a genuine ETA movement inside it. Alternatively, for an extra $160 I can purchase a TW Best, and the dealer guarantees a swiss ETA movement inside it. I have read about the legendary quality of TW Best models, apparantly they just feel more gen like. So, do you think for an extra $160 its worth it? For that extra money, I would be getting a guaranteed ETA movement and the quality of a TW Best. Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks.

I'm now starting to emerge out of the rep buying frenzy. I've now come to the realisation that I don't need that many watches to be content and I guess I'm not a watch nut like many members on this board. I've decided that I'm going to keep my collection to a maximum of 4 at any one time. It is proving difficult but they will all be watches that I'm happy to wear for many years. One of these, is the MBK PP Nautilus. Having aquired it last week, I must say this is the most impressive watch I've ever seen in person and handled. It is in perfect condition and I wish it would remain this way, but I know its not possible. As I intend to wear it almost everyday (it may even be my daily beater) I know it is inevitable that the bracelet and case will see damage in the forms of scratches and dings etc. I don't see my Nautilus as a replica or a gen, I simply see it as a beautiful watch which is constructed really well and I intend to wear it for many years. I know that when the time comes, I would like this one to be refinished professionally. The brushed and polished areas are just too perfect one this one for me to ever achieve anything close to it. Has any one here had any of their watches professionally refinished, and if so, what are your thoughts? Are the prices expensive that its not worth it? Are local watchsmiths able to undertake a task like this one? Comments are much appreciated

Agreed with all of above. Theres no point in risking seizure when you can pay a relatively small fee and receive the watch safely, its a no brainer IMO.

By intense cardio do you mean HIIT? If so then a protein rich and moderate carb meal would be the way to go (I'm assuming you're trying to burn body fat?)

I would just like to echo what Bruce said and go with the best quality watch that you can afford on your budget, rather than brand name only. I don't know much about watches in general, so I'm not sure how well made Hamilton or Oris watches are, but if they are indeed better made than a SMP, I would say go for it. I would always use quality as the key factor whenever I purchase any watch (rep or gen) , or just about anything, be it electronics, clothes, footwear etc. If you're going to spend $1000 of your hard earned money on a watch, I would definitely get one that will last for many many years.

I love Sly's movies, grew up watching them. Panerai definitely owe Stallone A LOT of credit. In fact I wouldn't be suprised if he gets freebies regularly from them everytime they release a new model. Where was Panerai before Stallone made it popular? Take a look at how popular Panerai is now, and before Stallone brought it to Hollywood no one knew of it, no one was wearing it, it was just another brand amongst the other unheard of brands. Then you see celebrities start to wear it and suddenly it shoots up in popularity. Has the traits of a fad if you ask me.

To echo what others are saying, the watch doesn't make the wedding. Wear whatever you're comfortable with and what you like.

Patek hands down I own one and without a doubt its the best timepiece I've ever seen.

I'm in the process of performing a repair and adjustment of my UPO bracelet (brand new and I haven't even had the chance to wear it)! Currently, I have the pin removal tool that Narikaa sells, and I can get the pins to come out half way. However any attempt to remove them with pliers is futile. I'm also finding it hard to tap out the pins using a needle/pin and hammer. Therefore I searched ebay for bracelet pin removal tools which come with longer pins fitted. I'm hoping these will further push the pins out and then they should be easier to remove with pliers. Here is the choice of 4: 1) Comes with 3 extra pins of different diameters. These pins look longer than the standard sized ones. 2) This one has a VERY long pin, the seller doesn't state if they come with any extra pins or not, but these should be able to push any pins all the way out. 3) This one is described as "watch chain link & pin remover for rusted and/or jammed links pins". This tool seems like its used by professionals, its the most expensive one, though I'm not sure if its suitable to use for the PO or any watch that has hard to remove pins. It also comes with extra 'hardened steel' pins.

I didn't find it funny at all, it saddened me. You call this guy out and poke fun at him for wearing a low end rep, yet you think you're better than him? You're wearing a fake too sir, no matter how much you try to convince yourself otherwise, you're still in the same 'bracket' as him. And I have to agree with the majority of members here, owning a timepiece goes much much beyond the brand name and I would never judge any one based upon what watch they're wearing, or what car they drive. Personality of a person goes much beyond these things.