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Vintage Omega 300 Seamaster


lanikai

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  • 3 weeks later...
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That's it, after drooling over Trusty's page for a year now, I'm ordering one!  Years ago I kept procrastinating about buying a "real" MBW SeaDweller or Patek... now you can't get them.  I procrastinated about so many things, you can't get what I procrastinated about and when/if they come up for sale, the cost is double or triple what the seller paid!

The Vintage Seamaster 300, All the TD's have them listed on their websites.  I've been dying to get one for a while, I just wasn't sure how accurate, mainly the case, it was.  They're available with and with-out date & with/with-out the famous "big triangle" at 12.

All the major issues that Omega "experts" look for, seem to have been fixed (oped 6 & 9, having some of the markers on the bezel being very yellow, spelling errors on the caseback, the shape of some of the caseback letters, specifically the "A"s.  Which are supposed to have a flat top and not look like this: "A".

(To me, I'm no expert!) The dial seems pretty accurate... the 6 and 9 are "open" as I said, if you go for a date version, there is a white line or border on the dial surrounding the date indicator.

The case back engraving looks correct to me, All the issues seems fixed, like I pointed out.

I guess the only (or possible?) dial flaw one or two have pointed out is the Omega logo... the "feet" are not 100%,  HONESTLY, is anyone really going to notice that on day-to-day use?  IMHO, they would have to be wearing a loup and closely inspecting the dial.

Even if they do that, I think they would need to have a genuine dial next to them to see the TINY LITTLE "feet" of the Omega.

You can buy a gen dial for about $300-$350 if you want for Frei, Cousin's, Watchco... But why bother?

If you look at Watchco or Frei, the dial is pretty darn close, if not 100% (if you excuse the logo feet, which I really haven't stared at for hours and see a major issue).  IMHO, the bezel insert looks to be pretty spot on too!

* My main question and concern is the case... is it really far off?  Is it really that bad?  Anyone, PLEASE comment!

I've never shaped a case before, but lets say there is a member who has modded cases, can this one be modded to be closer to or made to look pretty close to the original shape?  Basically, can it be improved?  Or it's just totally off/wrong and can't really be fixed or improved much?

Like many others pointed out, considering the rep costs UNDER $200 and the genuine case alone is $2000-$2500 or more (and that's without dial, movement, crown, in some cases without a bezel, etc.), even if the shape is off a bit, but still close, the rep, is anyone really going to call you out on it??

Especially if you age it a bit?  It's supposed to be a 40yr old watch!  (shake the case up with a bunch of coins, nails, etc... sand some of the deeper grooves... polish... do it again... than do it again! I think the case should look good after 3 "rounds."  You can do the coffee or cigar smoke trick on the dial?  You can get some tarnish going on the hands with a mix of water, salt and vinegar  (see the guide on how to age).  If the dial and hands don't come out like you want, Rafflestime/Ken has new/"NOS" dials and hands for you for basically less than 1/4th the price of what you paid for the watch.

Rafflestime/Ken has dials that may (or may not?) be better for VERY little (IMHO, they're likely from the same supplier).  Also, for half the cost of an Omega Seamaster 300 marked dial, Rafflestime/Ken has sterile dials too... if you would feel more comfortable going that route?

**Anyone know what replacement crystal/acrylic it uses?  OR more importantly, will it fit??

Lastly, like one or two other members have pointed out, you can fit an Omega movement.  If you're lucky, you can probably pick up a 552 or 565 Omega movement from an old Omega "dress watch" on fleaBay for $200-$250.  Cross your fingers, hopefully it'll keep good time and you can procrastinate on getting it serviced!  That said, it's a closed back, so no one will see the movement!  There are a few people out there that offer a custom made display back (which was never offered by the factory, especially on the vintage models and when Omega actually made their own movements, which you would actually like to see! (and didn't run to ETA!), The only reason I see to use an original 552/565 automatic, is if you can fit a display back (which I'm not usually a fan of).  I also guess, if you're really looking for authenticity, than I can see the desire for an original movement.  But once again, closed back... no one can see whats inside, why waste the $?

Correct me if I'm wrong, If you/someone do have a display back, that would likely take away a lot of questions, assumptions, comments if it's genuine, etc (not that I expect ANYONE to open their mouth!  It has NEVER happened to me, if someone said something, it was a compliment (which was usually about my 13yr old or older $125 Seiko "Black Monster"!))

Sorry for the long message. Just my $0.2 !

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  • 4 weeks later...
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On 1/4/2016 at 5:57 PM, JMC said:

Congrats, really a nice combo. Much more consistent and gen like, than the, nowadays so named, Spectre "child/toy" edition.

Good Choice +1 !

If You are saying the vintage gen is a great watch in it´s own right and the spectre function (without a GMT hand) is somewhat non-sensical I will totally agree.

On the other hand if You are comparing rep to gen both the modern ceramic Seamaster 300 Coax and the Spectre-version are much closer to the respective gen otb than that vintage replica (still it is on my wishlist).

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Edited by Nightwatch
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