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Drilling Lug Holes in Non-Drilled Cases


redwatch

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So I just received my new BK Noob GMT Master with gen insert and I really, really, really want to add my gen jubilee bracelet to it. I think it would be the icing on the cake :thumbsupsmileyanim:

So my question is, who would be the best person/modder to ask to do this? Is there a spacing difference between the noob bracelet lug hole placement & the gen hollow mid-link lug hole placement?

Any thoughts would be really appreciated! :D

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drilling lug holes is a pain in the ass. Maybe a machine shop can get it done if you strip the case down first. I dont see why they couldnt.

Lug holes sure look good though. rolex made a big mistake getting rid of them on their tool watches.

dizz

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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I had contacted jmb a while ago before receiving the watch and understandably he is a little leary just because it's not a cheap watch and it is a very difficult job to execute well. I will pm him again just to see if he feels any more comfortable about it. The only unfortunate problem is that this was the last BK Noob GMT and there are no more available. Not sure if the case sets would be available either. That would be my ideal choice. Source another case for this and have that one modded, leaving this one untouched. If the case modification works out well, then I can do a swap.

What do you guys think?

@Cats - pics are coming soon my friend!

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just get Joshs 1655 and convert it to an plexi GMT -

has already lug-holes and lets be honest -

the noob-case had his time some years ago :) no we have some nice watches with gen-like construction

that makes modding much easier ;)

cheers,

Frank

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"Any thoughts would be really appreciated!"

I have driled quite a few lug holes and it always gives me the heebie jeebies. No matter how careful you are, something can always go wrong.

The 'not so hard to do' job of enlarging existing lug holes is not nearly as bad as drilling holes all the way through lugs with blind holes...but it is still tricky because:

1...The bit can break off in the hole.

2...The bit can flex or wobble making the hole out of round or off to one side from where it should be.

3...You drill the hole too big or too close to the edge of the lug.

4...All of the above. :animal_rooster:

Drilling blind lugs is a real hassle because:

1...You have to know exactly where to drill the hole.

2...You have to mount the case in a holder of some sort.

3...If you miss the desired location and try to drill it again, the bit will always follow the existing hole so there's no fixing an out of place hole once it is very deep in the lug. One fix that might work is to try to drill out the first hole with a bigger drill bit but it is risky. Try this only if the first hole is quite a bit smaller than what you want to end up with.

5...You screw up a hole or two but decide to mount the bracelet anyway...the hoods will not fit precisely between the lugs.

4...I saved the worst for last...you need FOUR! (4) holes precisely drilled.

Not 1, 2, or 3....but 4!

Four chances to screw up. :shock:

A few tips from all my screwups:

1....(I'll put the worst up first) Practice on some spare cases if for no reason other than to see just how bad it can get.

2...Get 3 or more drill bits of each size and learn how to sharpen drill bits.

3...Find or make a sturdy case holder of some sort. If the case slips in the holder...the drill bit walks or breaks.

'walks' = leaves the desired spot and gouges a trail on the lug as it moves along

4...Buy a cheapo bench mount drill press from Harbor Freight etc if you do not have one. A 1/4 or 3/8 hand drill mounted in a $10 frame will not do the job.

5...When enlarging existing holes...go up one drill bit size at a time and lubricate the drill bit after it starts biting into the lug. Too much or too slick and the lube can prevent rapid cutting and the bit will overheat. If it starts squealing and smoking...it's time for a new bit.

6...Start the hole in blind lugs with just enough drill bit sticking out of the chuck for the chuck to clear the rest of the case to prevent the drill bit from flexing or walking. After the hole is a mm or two deep, you can let a little more of the drill bit out of the chuck.

7...If the hole inside the opposite lug is in line with the hole you just drilled...you can usually just keep drilling and it will make a matching pair of straight holes in both lugs. Sometimes not though if the holes inside the lugs were drilled from under or above the lugs. Many are drilled at an angle so check them carefully.

8...The most important tip of all. wear safety glasses! :black_eye:

I have a miniature Sherline milling machine and a hefty case mount but I will not work on someone else's case because it is so easy to make a mess out of a perfectly good case.

I have the trophys to prove it. :cry2:

Good luck!

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I have a miniature Sherline milling machine and a hefty case mount but I will not work on someone else's case because it is so easy to make a mess out of a perfectly good case.

I have the trophys to prove it. :cry2:

Good luck!

I have to agree on the point above, it is a pain in the ass, Next time i try i will be starting off with a diamond engraving bit and the case in a jig to get the hole started as there will be less flex, only then when the hole is started i will go with the drill bit.

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Good luck!

Wow you are an invaluable wealth of information! Those are all great, great tips! Thank you!!!

I have to agree on the point above, it is a pain in the ass, Next time i try i will be starting off with a diamond engraving bit and the case in a jig to get the hole started as there will be less flex, only then when the hole is started i will go with the drill bit.

Andy didn't you make a really great wooden jig for doing this?

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I just brought my Datejust and Noob BK GMT to my office just to see how the endlinks matched up. Anyone who doubts the tight fit of the noob gmt SEL's is crazy! I can't even get one side off it's so tight!!!

Another thought would be to try and source some 502T endlinks. Of course, upon initial searches it looks like these are pretty scarce.

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Red - You want to use a #55 bit for Sub and SD lug holes...

Automatico pretty much nailed it, to me it's nerve-wracking to do somebody else's case and I refuse to do it unless they completely understand there's always a chance of messing it up and if that happens they won't send "Guido the Terrible" after me! I clamp them to a fixture and eye-ball the hole location using the band for somewhat of a guide. I use a very small center-drill to get things started then finish up with the proper sized bit and lots of cutting oil. The last thing I drilled (My blue Tudor Chrono) I busted off a bit in the last hole and had to order a high-dollar .040" carbide end mill cutter to get past it...

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Thanks J. From what I gather it definitely appears to be a scary undertaking so I completely understand your comment :D I am on the hunt for the endlinks so I don't need to go through this procedure. We'll see how it all works out.

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Wow you are an invaluable wealth of information! Those are all great, great tips! Thank you!!!

Andy didn't you make a really great wooden jig for doing this?

I Did but i need to find a way to lock it in to position on my xy table before i do it again, it is fine for enlarging the lug holes but to drill new holes you need every thing 1000% solid, even than the tip of the bit wants to wander down the slope even with very light presure, so i am going to try a thich shaft with a thin diamond tip to start the holes next time.

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....even than the tip of the bit wants to wander down the slope even with very light presure....

If you use the diy setup in the link I posted above, you can drill through virgin metal with perfect accuracy & without anything wandering/shifting. Just insert the bit well into the drill's chuck, leaving only enough of the bit exposed as is required to drill through the metal.

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