Is more expensive always better?

[McPikie]

I'm looking to buy a planet ocean rep and I can't decide between a couple.

 

They are on Trustytime, but I am a total noobie when it comes to rep watches, movements etc. Basically I want a nice looking watch that isn't going to fall apart, hence trusting a reputable seller on here.

 

Now, I really like the look of this one, and at $118 it's the cheapest he has: 

 

http://www.trustytime.biz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_114&products_id=16394

 

But I also like this one:

 

http://www.trustytime.biz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_114&products_id=16786

 

Now, it's double the price, but will I see any difference as a newbie with movement etc? I won't ever use the chrono features, but I do prefer them to a plain face

[daovto]

but will I see any difference as a newbie with movement etc? I won't ever use the chrono features, but I do prefer them to a plain face

The more expensive one does have a more accurate representation of the authentic movement, and I would say it might be a better watch overall.

However if as you say the less than 100% working chrono is not an issue you may be quite happy with the lower cost rep.

Take a look at the available QC pics and see if anybody who owns one chips in. Both look nice so enjoy whichever you decide on... and don't forget to post lots of pics

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[paneristi_man]

Rule is cheapest usually are the ones with bit more "tells" than the more expensive, so if compared to gens it's bit more obvious it's a rep.

The more expensive usually better in closeness to the gen. But avoid the most expensive due to different movements i.e that is being touted with "Swiss movements".

You wouldn't know if they stuck a Chinese movement in a supposedly Swiss movement watch, cos you'll never open the watch unless you're such an expert or you have to service it which by that time is too late to get any refunds.

 

So if you are happy with just a rep that has some tells, buy the cheapest. If not go a bit higher but stay away from "Swiss" movement.

 

That's just my opinion and if they are those out there who are adamant about getting Swiss movements as best, then my apologies. 

 

 

[508-Fanatic]

2 hours ago, paneristi_man said:

Rule is cheapest usually are the ones with bit more "tells" than the more expensive, so if compared to gens it's bit more obvious it's a rep.

The more expensive usually better in closeness to the gen. But avoid the most expensive due to different movements i.e that is being touted with "Swiss movements".

You wouldn't know if they stuck a Chinese movement in a supposedly Swiss movement watch, cos you'll never open the watch unless you're such an expert or you have to service it which by that time is too late to get any refunds.

 

So if you are happy with just a rep that has some tells, buy the cheapest. If not go a bit higher but stay away from "Swiss" movement.

 

That's just my opinion and if they are those out there who are adamant about getting Swiss movements as best, then my apologies. 

 

 

I would second the idea of staying away from "swiss" movements, chinese sweatshops getting genuine ETA or Sellita movements and then putting them in clean is borderline laughable. If you want Chrono features and a cheap rep try to go Quartz, sweep will be a tell but the movement won't explode after a few months like the A7750's are prone to.

Having had an omega rep like this one thing to be aware and cautious of is the lettering paint on the rear case loves to rub off or otherwise disappear which is a huge and immediate tell. 

 

Also there are makers out there using a much more accurate black or gray balance wheel instead of the brass which is an immediate tell as well.

 

Good luck  I almost always suggest closed-caseback reps.

[automatico]

"Rule is cheapest usually are the ones with bit more "tells" than the more expensive..."

 

True.

Bought some cheapo $35 'submariner' replicas in the late 1990s that you could spot as a reep-lika 15 feet away.  They were all steel, had Seagull ST16 movements, and were extremely rugged (for a mech watch).  The main tell was the lettering (silver not white) on the dials looked like it had been stamped in a moving rickshaw.  I call them 'Chrisubs' because the guy said his name was 'Chris'.  

Same guy had some much nicer subreps for $65.  I call them 'nysubs' because he claimed he was from NYC.

 

 

 

"I would second the idea of staying away from "swiss" movements, chinese sweatshops getting genuine ETA or Sellita movements and then putting them in clean is borderline laughable."

 

Agree.

Imho the better choice is to buy a watch with a China etaclone.  I have a very low opinion of China etaclones in general but their one and only redeeming feature is they can be mashed flat and a swiss Eta put in their place.

I have little doubt the Chinese could make higher quality 28xx etaclones if they wanted to...but not for $20 or less wholesale.

 

Looking back at prices...

About 20 years ago I bought some new Seagull ST6D for $12 each and new swiss Eta 2836 for $56 each (2846 was less).  The supply house probably made 25% or 30% on them so counting a couple middlemen and shipping, the ST16D probably cost $6+/- and the 2836 probably $25+/- leaving the factory.

It does not cost much to make movements at high volume.  A swiss Eta 2836 probably cost $35 or $40 to make now.

 

Wonder how much it cost to make a rlx 32xx movement? 

My guess is $400.

 

 

[tyrantblade]

In this case I would go more expensive, but sometimes there is a very small price difference between factories of the same watch with probably (but not necessarily 100% of the time) all the same parts and the same movement

[By-Tor]

I paid 80 Euros for this YM with Asian 21J movement back in the day (from Narikaa).

 

This was the REAL Noobfactory version which was only ever surpassed by the WM9 version. But this was awesome rep.

 

I'd probably still have it but I never cared for the YM personally.

 

 

[Nanuq]

Well yeah, and you'd need 8 more links to get it around your Popeye like forearms.

[By-Tor]

Haha my hardcore lifting days are long gone Nanuq.  I'm a slim fit guy these days.

[Tribal]

Good to see you again.

[pcardoza]

I have mixed feelings on this topic.     Features like 904 stainless and 18k gold wrapped are priced with significant markups that IMO, are not worth it.

 

On the Swiss eta issue, I did buy a DSSD Blue from Andrew with a stated eta movement and have been thrilled with the performance.   I use this as a daily piece and NEVER have to adjust or manually wind it.    Worked 100% right out of the box.   I've yet to have an Asian movement work this well, without prior service being performed.

[By-Tor]

904 steel is just a gimmick. When I put my gen 16610 and WM9 side by side I can't see or feel any difference at all. The difference comes from the smoothness / roundness of the bracelet links. And those you can modify on a rep. Just put the bracelet into a motor oil can  for 12 hours, wash and use a nail file to make the bracelet edges rounder. Voila... after that it's 90% like the gen.

[Nanuq]

The only time I even notice the steel is when I use a band and head from two different manufacturers... sometimes one is "whiter" than the other because the alloy doesn't quite match.  Other than that??  Metal shmetal.  Wear it and enjoy it.

[capice]

@By-Tor...good to see you're back m8, I loved those legendary reviews from the old days...

[medphreak]

@By-Tor...good to see you're back m8, I loved those legendary reviews from the old days...

100%. Nice to see you, @By-Tor