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Submariner build questions


Mattjames84

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The lug holes are a little bit high, but there's nothing you can do other than enlarge the holes to accept gen-like spring bars. The bezel insert looks good, stock dial and hands are ok.

Big things to do are to trim the crown guards and replace the crown and tube. Maybe you could just replace the crown, but you won't know until you get a better crown. An Athaya crown and tube are only like $50. That Helenarou dial is awfully white- could use some aging. 

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Or go the classic 5513 route, no date wheel replacement issues. A cartel base model with the Asian 2836 will be a nice start. Make sure it has the 93150 stamped bracelet. http://www.trustytime.club/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_11&products_id=14419

1. Replace the dial with a Helenarou one, comes in 3 variants of aging to choose from and already has the eta feet position.

2. Have the lug holes drilled so you can use gen spec fat spring bars, you ideally also need to reduce the inner crown guards so the gen crown has a gap either side.

3. change the plexi for a clarks T19 one, much nicer. Or just leave the rep one and age it a bit

4. Swap out the crown and tube for Gen, makes a big difference as the rep ones are all too tall in height.

5. Buy some WSO 580 endlinks off ebay

Hope that helps

DH 

 

 

 

 

Hers's one that i put together a while back using the Helenarou dial, best advise is remove the Cartel tube then this gives you plenty of filing room. The aim is to create a small gap between the inner CG and crown. Hope this helps

20181208_081118.thumb.jpg.3013946bb750d0326c0cf44706d659d0.jpg

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So I have a swiss ETA 2834 17j day date movement kicking around.. could I swap the 2836 out for this? There is one spec that's different though, i think it's the outer diameter

And I feel like I'm gonna end up selling the watch I just bought, minus the bracelet... cause I really want a Vietnam case.. 

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You'd accomplish nothing using a 2834-2- it's 28800 beat and like you said, has a wider diameter with an extra ring to support the day function on the outside of the movement. Your best bet is a 2846-2 for the 21600 beat. The only advantage to your older 2834 with 17 jewels is that it's a swiss eta, but probably needs a service.

 

 

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That's the thing about vintage Rolex bracelets- they're pretty thin- but that's the way they were.

For more beef you could buy a solid mid link bracelet from rafflesdials.

http://rafflesdials.com/20mm-solid-stainless-steel-all-brushed-vintage-93150-submariner-style-oyster-watch-band-bracelet-strap-marked-rolex-crown-logo-for-rolex-14060-or-16610-or-16800/

And like DH said, get a pair of 580 ends from WSO990 to be more correct.

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22 minutes ago, Mattjames84 said:

Well the watch arrived today and I'm pretty disappointed in it, the bracelet is total junk.. feels like tin foil.. I don't know, I don't see where this watch was worth anywhere near what I paid for it

It's not bad if you just want to use the case and make a good rep. with it.    It's also really good practice to build your own from the parts before you invest in more expensive parts.  So the money is worth if for learning.  The thing that worries me is that these makers don't care real hard about making everything to gen. spec.  But if you spend the money on MQ Vietnam 5513 case/parts or Phong, etc, they make everything fit Gen. as a standard.     

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"It's not bad if you just want to use the case and make a good rep. with it.  It's also really good practice to build your own from the parts before you invest in more expensive parts.  So the money is worth if for learning."

 

Agree.

 

On cases with the lug holes drilled too far to the top you can leave them as is and use oem type DJ spring bars made for older models with lug holes bored all the way through the lugs.  They are smaller in diameter and shorter but they save drilling into the bevels. 

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I still think the band sucks but its usable


You think that band is cheap, you should feel a genuine 7206 riveted band. It feels like it's made of folded tinfoil. Astoundingly thin, cheap, weak, unbelievable that they'd put that on a tool dive watch at the Rolex factory.
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"You think that band is cheap, you should feel a genuine 7206 riveted band. It feels like it's made of folded tinfoil.  Astoundingly thin, cheap, weak, unbelievable that they'd put that on a tool dive watch at the Rolex factory."

 

Yeah they were low quality all right and they pulled out every hair you had.  Had to take the watch off just to take a whizz...  :Jumpy:

 

Back in the early 1970s the local AD had a display of C&I rivet oysters for sale and iirc they were about $39 each but they would give you one if it helped make a sale.  Genuine was probably $59 or so.

From looking at them on eBay it seems they have gone up a little bit.

 

I have a 20mm stretch rivet oyster style bracelet from that era with no brand name and it has a 'coronet' on the clasp without points on the crown, looks kinda like a triangle with a ruffle on it.  They were about $20 and as good as genuine or C&I.

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So I decided to ultimately go with the mbw 5513 as my base the case looks more gen, the lugs are drilled and look better then the cartel, has a gen t19 already.. gonna open it up when I get it and figure out why it's not running.. I'll post an update after I receive it. 

Thanks holo. I like the last one.

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