Date Disc Overlays

[lazarini]

sweet ill take one 1:1 1575 Flat top 3 layed out for ETA date progression

if it can be fitted to an eta 2836-2 or its only for the slow beat eta?

Laz

[dluddy]

-- 1:1 1575 Flat top 3 layed out for ETA date progression

Assume this is right for a 1655 Explorer II (2836) as well as a 1680?

[omegaguy]

I have an euromariner with noob date wheel/ noob dial, and ETA 2836-2 movement

i'd need the noob style 3135 datewheel right?

........i aint no noob

[tmg]

Oh boy!! This is great to see it coming together Stilty.

Anyone recall the thickness of the Ubi DW overlays are for fit comparison?

[ThinkBachs]

This was a dumb post, I should have read the whole thread before mentioning it.

[lanikai]

I'm In !! total on ordering ...

Thank you !!!

[omegaguy]

any update on these?

[jjfesq]

any update on these?

1:1 1575 Flat top 3 layed out for ETA date progression

I'm still in please for 2 of these for 1680 and 1665

ty

jj

[omegaguy]

how long till the 3135 version?

[mjmurphy926]

I'd be very interested in 2 overlays 3135 for noob dial and ETA 2836-2!!

Thanks,

Mike

[athan]

Please count me in too for 1x for my ETA 2836 of my MBK1665GW.

(I guess it would fit?)

Cheers

[equis]

2 for me for 2836-2 Eta.

[milsub5517]

is this project alive?

[athan]

Any news? is this project still ON?

[mzimand]

I will take 2 for sure.

[nielest]

I will take 2 for sure.

want in on this project!

[rosnik]

Stilty,

do you got news?

[shultz]

I am in for my 1680 with ETA 2836-2: I'll take one disc 0.07mm thick, "flat top 3", in silver

[concepta]

Can i use this with a ETA2893 movement? (for 2 franken GMTIIC with gen dials)

[Guest techlogik]

Question: Can you explain what you mean by "overlay"?

I am in need of a datewheel and the actual overlay. The thing is with the DSSD (don't know about other Rolex reps), the datewheel is actually raised and wider. Since it is wider, it needs to be raised to fit over the metal holder that fastens to the plate to secure the datewheel. The white printed overlay needs to be wider along with wheel and attach securely to each other so it fits the DSSD date window and fills it completely, width that is.

Is the datewheel and overlay you are making similar to this and does what I describe above apply to all Rolex reps for the datewheel and overlay? Are they all the same?

I am asking this because my overlay, the white part with the date on it, came unglued off the metal wheel. Re-attaching it hasn't worked with model glue, came right off again shortly.

I am trying to figure out where to source a new datewheel and overlay and if this would work.

Thanks

[Brightight]

Question: Can you explain what you mean by "overlay"?

I am in need of a datewheel and the actual overlay. The thing is with the DSSD (don't know about other Rolex reps), the datewheel is actually raised and wider. Since it is wider, it needs to be raised to fit over the metal holder that fastens to the plate to secure the datewheel. The white printed overlay needs to be wider along with wheel and attach securely to each other so it fits the DSSD date window and fills it completely, width that is.

Is the datewheel and overlay you are making similar to this and does what I describe above apply to all Rolex reps for the datewheel and overlay? Are they all the same?

I am asking this because my overlay, the white part with the date on it, came unglued off the metal wheel. Re-attaching it hasn't worked with model glue, came right off again shortly.

I am trying to figure out where to source a new datewheel and overlay and if this would work.

Thanks

All you need is some 30minute epoxy to glue the overlay back onto the datewheel (after cleaning up any residue). However this is a tricky job as it has to be correctly aligned all the way round (thus the 30 minutes before it sets) so unless you are confident you might consider getting a modder to do this for you.

[Guest techlogik]

All you need is some 30minute epoxy to glue the overlay back onto the datewheel (after cleaning up any residue). However this is a tricky job as it has to be correctly aligned all the way round (thus the 30 minutes before it sets) so unless you are confident you might consider getting a modder to do this for you.

So you are saying my model glue that is typically used by watch modders isn't the right thing for this job it sounds like.

Th aligment is actually the easy part IMO. I've done that once, it was keeping the overlay stuck permenantly that was the problem

Otherwise, I still would like to know as a reference. I can get a new overlay from bklm on RG. But he doesn't have the wheel blanks with cogs...at least I don't think so. It would be nice to have a complete replacement plug/play datewheel with the overlay that is more accurate and all assembled. So a straight datewheel swap is all that is needed.

A modder does have my watch now, he says it is tricky and didn't sound confident with reapplying..not sure why, seems basic, as I have done it myself. The adhesive is the issue.

So if I find a better overlay, I will follow your advice, an exact brand of glue would be helpful too? I used the GS Hypo glue that is typically sold, didn't work so well.

[jmb]

I use clear RTV silicone adhezive - sticks to pretty much anything but can still be fairly easily removed. I also use it on bezel inserts...

[Brightight]

I have tried most things to stick overlays from cyanoacrylate to Evostik contact, but the epoxy is definitely best. Incidentally you can't really get a 'plug and play' Datewheel with overlay, as once the overlay is stuck on, it is very difficult to fit the datewheel as the detent spring is totally covered up by the larger overlay. Hypo glue is more suited to acrylic. RTV silicone can be too thick where there is not a lot of clearance (such as building a Franken). Cyanoacrylate is not recommended for watch work by the way as it can fog crystals from the inside.

The stuff I got came from the bay and is 30min Slow Cure Epoxy, Dist by Bob Smith Industries, Alascadero, CA - http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/epoxies.html. It has other useful traits, it is two liquids which combine (not gels or pastes like some expoxies such as Araldite) thus is not very viscous and dries thin. Also it does not 'string'. The last thing you want is a string of epoxy falling into the works. The slow cure means you have plenty of time to move it into alignment. Once the alignment is right, I leave it well alone for 24 hours. The overlay sticks very well and cannot be removed without introducing a razor blade between the datewheel and the overlay all the way round. I also use this epoxy to glue dials to dial mounting rings.

[Guest techlogik]

Thanks guys.

I know what you are saying about how the overlay ends up over the cover, but I have found that an angled small screw driver can loosen the cover so you can get the wheel off without hosing the datewheel on a 2836 movement.

I will try to find this stuff. I know that as long as it is thin when it dries, that is key so it isn't rubbing the back of the dial and such.

P.S. I still want a plug and play datewheel with overlay. That is what I thought this thread was about. It appears to be a metal blank for the making of the overlay for the printing. Re-read it again and now it sunk into my thick noggin. Can't you get these overlays from bklm on RG for $30 already?

Thanks again!