Leaderboard

Verstuurd vanaf mijn RNE-L21 met Tapatalk

Small update: I got in touch with SSteel. The 1016 is going away within the end of the current week to undergo a complete overhaul. Will open a new thread on this to show off the outcome of a new project I look forward to. [emoji6] Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

Hi guys As you remember, I have offered in batches modded SS JF V7 and Noob V4 FC divers. The A2824 divers have been unavailable for a long while, and recently available again from the TD. I will be offering 10 fully modded divers again, with the following specs. Please PM if interested for price and availability thank you. Base Watch: JF V7 AP ROO stainless steel diver Mods: 1. ETA low beat movement conversion, including service and regulation 2. Omega datewheel for AP ROO divers 3. Dial mod for the wet gloss look 4. Mk1 cyclop 5. Waterproofed to 6 atm minimum 6. Bezel screws polish, align and recess Below are pictures of 2 of the fully modded diver as examples. Please note that the base watches are with me, and there will be a turnaround time of about 3 weeks from time of order inclusive of 48hrs of movement testing before shipment.

Where did you source the gen DW? Is this the Gen 1 ARF 904 126600? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You’re welcome GH. Dials-wise, and again if memory serves, the best out there are (or used to be when I still was in the know on such things): gen, Whoopy, Ingod44, Ndt, Yuki and so on. Mbk’s stuff used to be pretty lousy, Trusty’s looked great in pics but would be quite deceiving in real. Of course there also was Phong but he was pretty hard to deal with and insanely overpriced, with no guarantee whatsoever that one would ultimately get something worth the money he’d shelled. Helena being more centered on Submariners did not at the time offer a 1016 dial... can’t remember any other modded/td worth mentioning right now. Jmb’s V2 is very good, I still have one stashed somewhere which I kept because back then J would offer custom engravings. Mine therefore bears a correct “1016” on one side and a relevant serial number, matching the production year on the inside of the caseback, on the other. Then again Jmb’s caseback is flat as gen. I think that a gen service dial on a Jmb case would definitely be a great combo. I wonder whether Rolojack is still active on the forums, his were some of the most gorgeous 101x and 55xx builds I have ever seen... indistinguishable from gen, at least per the pictures I saw.

Nice piece you’ve got there. What irks me a bit (just an uneducated guess), however is the gilt that has been used on all the dial markings except the “Space Dweller” bit. To my (very limited) knowledge there are no gilt-dialed SDs, much less bi-colored ones.That said the triangle shape and height look good, fonts do not seem off (at least in my eye), numbers and indices are ok. A couple of shots of both sides would help getting an idea of the lugs shape and of the bezel and caseback shape and height. As far as I know the best bezel out there is Jmb’s. This part alone can drastically change the watch’s overall look thus making it more coherent with gen. Caseback is quite important too as those in gen pieces are very flat and almost flush with the middle case. Another fundamental part is the crystal: vintage ones (50s to 60s) generally will require a Superdome, while more recent pieces (from 70s forward) will require a flatter crystal (T21 if memory serves). Hands: TCs are amongst the best Mercedes sets According to me, Helenarou’s also are quite good, unless you can source gen that is. Finer details would concern movement which should be low-beat on older pieces and hacking on models replicating pieces from the 1970s onward. This is more or less what I know (or believe I know) about this fascinating watch. For more-in-depth infos (and much more accurate than mine), you could use the search function on here and look for any 1016-related post from my good friend LHOOQ and BLUE, which are the two ops I deem the most knowledgeable on the argument, bar none. Hth, enjoy this great place and its friendly people. Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

Damaged or missing dial feet on a dial is serious in my book!! There is no real substitute but from that the real solution is to have them re-soldered and have the dial resorted because of the burn marks though the front of dial. Brings 2 problems 1. It is expensive and risk having stains at the front of dial 2. It is a re-dial which makes it worth less all that is a hazard for a genuine dial/ watch and how much worse for a replica!!!!! I no longer do any new projects as I have tossed it all in since it became beyond reach. I would have experimented by doing the following: Would it be possible to make an annulus from a blank dial made for a 2836 movement and keeping the feet on it. In other words, it could be used as a dial space which could be epoxied underneath the dial with damaged feet. It might act as dial feet and as a spacer from rubbing the DWO. I would expect it to be stronger as you would have both axial and radial torque!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"I considered to make some (case clamps) out of old mainspring according to an old post I remember reading here." I have made quite a few sets out of steel automotive 'feeler gauge' stock. They come in different thicknesses and are easy to drill and form to size. Use the thickest gauge you can get by with but make sure it allows the winding rotor to clear. Make sure the casing screws are long enough to fill the threads in the movement plate but not so long that they pass through and hit anything inside the movement. 1...Drill the hole first. 2...Form the end with the hole in it first. 3...Trim to length and width. I use a battery Dremel with a fiber cut-off wheel. 4...Bend the clamp if needed. 5...If it does not want to start into the groove in the case. you may have to sharpen the tip of the clamp or grind a shallow notch in the spacer to lower the clamp. One of the most important things is to have a movement spacer that is a precise fit around the movement and inside the case to keep everything in place when pulling/pushing on the crown. The clamps help a lot but the spacer takes most of the side loads. Being able to mount the dial to the top side of the movement spacer is much better (imho) than mounting it directly to the top plate of the movement or a flimsy calendar spacer. Depending on case clamp pressure to hold the dial in place may or may not work. Otoh I have had so much trouble with dial dots that I have stopped using them to hold a dial in place. I did use a few between the movement spacer and movement on my '1016' project to tighten the fit between the ID of the spacer and OD of the movement and to keep the dial and spacer from turning on the movement. I glued the dial to the spacer with clear Gorilla Glue. So far so good... https://rwg.cc/topic/183724-dial-with-no-feet/ https://rwg.cc/topic/192105-jmb-1016-project-update/ https://rwg.cc/topic/167880-the-built-of-my-franken-rolex-explorer-i-ref-1016/#comment-1397861

Great work here guys!

Being new to the hobby and especially the forums it is great to see the admin step in and help get this sorted for the seller. I have personally dealt with the seller in the last few months and found him to be nothing but honest and accommodating in every way possible so it is good to see justice done and I also look forward to seeing Karma come around for this sad excuse of a scamming pig. Tariq like the guys have said, enjoy watching over that shoulder because from what I’ve learnt this hobby is a close one and if you try to hurt one it’s like taking on an army. Good luck [emoji867] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ban on@swiss6uk temporarily lifted so he can come in and read all this. Tariq, for what it’s worth, I’m happy you lost the claim. I was personally involved to help you sort out the issue with Aflop and you suddenly turned on us and started the dispute, which you eventually lost. I’m elated actually, because trash like you has no place in the community. You’re a moron and you had it coming for a long time. If you’re not guilty, why try to sneak back to RWI after you were banned, with a different nick? The problem is, you’re too stupid to realize that you’re stupid, and too dumb to realize that whatever lies you told, have backfired upon you beautifully. You’re now probably standing like a moron with your mouth agape, wondering what happened. Serve you right and beheading you with a rusty blunt axe will be an act of superlative charity toward you. I had warned you against starting the dispute and I had even anticipated each of your foolish moves. I worked with Aflop and a few others to always stay 3 steps ahead. Your racist rant about Chinese people and watches isn’t forgotten. But then again what does an ugly fool like you know about respect and integrity? Probably as much as I know about building nukes. Yes I’m here to tread on you like the bug you are. And I’m relishing every moment of it. Cockroaches have more intelligence and charisma than you. [censored] you and the cave you crawled out from. You’ve been proven to be nothing but a pathetic little worm with cornflakes for brains. I hope that someone can turn up at your door and say hello to your kneecaps with a sledgehammer. There are intelligent scammers and then there’s you, the variety with the brains and finesse of a retarded garden slug. I’ve never met someone with more stupidity than you in the hobby. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers from Croatia

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This one. Gen Seamaster GMT with a black insert. Back from its holiday at Micky’s spa.

Hello again, sorry for the late and, as such, uninteresting reply but things have been kinda hectic back here as of lately, due to my son's graduation from high school, work, burocracy and whatnot... Back on track. The watch finally arrived. The case is not half bad once I have replaced the bezel with one of JMB's (correct shape and height), the caseback with a (correctly) flat one and the T21 with a gen Superdome from my "box-o'-stuff". The dial is Yuki's standard with a decent lume. The triangle is a bit small although coherent with those which can be found on rail dialed 1016s, therefore not a real teller. The coronet is not terrible, the SCOC font is a tad off but not a big issue, at least in my eye. I don't like Yuki's hand very much, especially the second one which appears too short and almost truncated. I have checked it against Helena's and the latter are definitely better. The real issue here is that my watchmaker's skillz are sub-par, I have tried replacing hands or recasing a movement before and it ended in tears every time. I will try to get in touch with Domi and see if he manages to take the job...

Citizen deluxe year 1960.

Gents...these are awesome! Legends' mods are sublime. I have worn mine into the Ginza boutique and was complemented on it....yeah, I know...but I just couldn't resist.