highoeyazmuhudee

one of my contacts in Asia just came across this as some sort of replica (franken maybe) watch for sale. just wondering some opinions on its accuracy as gmts are not my forte. no pms about this please, i really dont know much more right now than what ive already shared .

the stumpy CGs dont look too bad on that one. hows the metal and the bracelet?

it does not. i have a gen rolex lumi pearl that i have no use for and an empty non gen one and a modded ofrei pearl. i dont need these anymore if youre in need i would sell them at cost to me.

its not a matter of it being tight, or having the proper tool in this situation

i find most people on VRF understate the actual condition on parts and pieces theyre selling, that member included. there is also this gen lumi 16610 sub dial for $400 asking, make an offer for $300 you ll get it for $350, good companion to that TC or sean case with clone movement http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-Rolex-16610-Series-Stainless-Steel-Black-Submariner-Dial-Swiss-T-25-Mint-/280851233887?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item416409bc5f

something similar happened to me, i had a disassembled case that i ultrasonically cleaned, let dry and screwed the case back back on, next day it wouldnt open, nothing could get it open. i held a lighter to the case back for a while and that eventually allowed me to loosen it but the threads looked different, like pitted or gnarled. when i originally screwed it down it was smooth and there was no indication of a problem. im not sure if this is the same as what your describing or not.

theres a few more than whats covered on the 5513 insert

whats your budget?

i understand its not for production

its a folded over piece of metal. it cant be drilled but only opened up by expanding the fold. these bracelets are probably the best reps BUT thats if you actually get one marked 93150 from angus seems dealers dont wanna guarantee what markings you ll actually receive, AND even if you receive a correctly marked one theyre still mediocre, the metal and finish is noticeably below par. i ll sell you my 93250 93150 if you want. i have no use for such mislabeled parts, brand new. $30/shipped w/the 580s

nice! i see you already got a band aid on there from your first attempt with that razor blade

CGs could use a trim observe:

3 -5 years before you probably need to adjust it, but you should probably service it around 5 years anyways. some people have 20 year old watches that have never been serviced that still keep great time.

well heres your chance for a gen RED sub dial http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/message/1332359301/FS...+perfect+red+sub+dial just pony up the $3200

your swatch movement is most likely missing drilled holes for a dial, and most importantly drilled holes for the case clamps to screw it down, swatch cases are built to hold the movement without the need for screws. only part worth taking off this movement is the setting bridge since it has two positions, wind and time and youre building 5513 this is perfect. keep the movement for its spare parts, some swatch movements have plastic parts instead of metal as well so be aware of that, the metal in some of the parts is also much cheaper and brassy gold colored where on the 2846 it is nickle or something similar. 2783/2 does not have 100% compatible parts with the 2846 or 2836, the keyless works is all different as is the date mech. the keyless works has a spring that loves to go flying once you open it up. i suggest sticking with a 2846 its more familiar and parts are still readily available. there was one that sold last week for $65 inside a NOS Mondaine watch on the bay, if i didnt already have one thats the one i would have bid on. if you can get a 2783 in COSC grade for a good price its worth the hassle RADO DIASTAR 1 2797 get the 21jewel version as the reversing wheels tend to stick less than on the 17j variety (which doesnt have jewels on the reversing wheels) some brands: Mondaine Enicar (cal 2158) Tissot Rado lukom West end watch co (where i sourced mine) titoni sowan (sowar) watch octo you ll find what youre looking for if you search through these brands on the bay

ive played with several gen 5513s, the CGS were always wider and thicker than youd think. almost like a canine tooth in shape. they also seemt o hug the crown more than youd realize. pics are always misleading

congratulations you own the first rep of that watch! probably better than what the rep factories will produce too.

are you still going to buy it ?

pics can be very telling, the same way you determine if something is fake or not from a photo, the genuine piece looks a certain typical way in photos. if the pic youre looking at looks more different especially in critical areas it has warranted suspicion. ive noticed the way watches look in person and in photos are completely different and can only be compared in the same manner. if you can spot a franken watch in person you may not be very good at determining its authenticity in photos and vice versa. its like when people say the photos dont do it justice or its really hard to capture that certain sparkle im trying to show you. compare photos with photos and in person with in person for more consistent results, one is 2D one is 3D, that alone makes a big difference.

notice how you werent sent a picture of the opposite side showing where the HEvalve would be? my guess is it probably doesnt have one. the rehaut is also too shallow, making me think this is actually a 5513 case dressed up

these are my findings, calibrated digital calipers, accuracy give or take 0.05mm - 0.10mm anyone care to measure a josh case or gen 5513 for comparison?

i know its not the same, but if it proves too difficult you could always fake it

if you shine a flashlight at the side of the crystal , parallel with it, you can get the etched crown to illuminate

completely different, if youre building an ultra franken and is your grail watch, working he v, gen movement, than a yuki case is totally worth it for your build. the same cant be said for a 5513 yuki case, its strange but the 1665 yuki makes seems really good but the 5513 case is just ok despite being more simple in production. the PT is ok, but if youre serious into building it i wouldnt use it (pts case) as a base to build my franken on. there is also of course an MBW case, many members enjoy them, and they ARE worth the little bit more $$ over the PT 1665

ive seen them range in price from $150-$300 if its for a sub it should be marked 295c which its not. the package code refers to a datejust. are you certain this is genuine? it has generic packaging.