highoeyazmuhudee

not bad

ive done it successfully most recently, ive tried on noob cases several years ago and ruined them all, then i developed a procedure which worked 100% it requires a real drill press, standing or table top will do, a drill press vise, a diamond burr bit for dremels with 1/8 shank, a 1.25mm drill bit with 1/8 shank and a custom case jig (i made one out of wood in 10minutes) figure out where you have to drill the hole, mark the spot with a sharpie, lock the case down in the jig/vise , line up the diamond bit, slowly press the diamond bit on to the marked surface of the case just making a slight dent in it -this will be the pilot crater for the 1.25mm drill bit, once you have a slight dimple lube up the 1.25mm bit, line it up with the diamond bit dimple, slowly press it down on to the pilot dimple, you will have to keep adding cutting oil and press very slowly or you will break the bit. i like to turn off the press while the bit is still through the hole instead of running it and letting it pull out, i find the hole is cleaner this way.

thought he was out of the game for good

if you want the contact of someone in the Toronto Area that is reputable with very reasonable rates PM me, no idea if they deal with reps or asian movements though

got a nice pair of drug store aviators for $20, POLARIZED too! even checked them against the rayban polarizer demo they work perfectly

where in Canada you from?

these pictures reveal almost nothing but from what i can see: the clasp is wrong, the half adjustment holes are not correct for a 93150 the description makes no mention of it being a hollow link, so there is a chance it could be a solid link bracelet which would be incorrect endlinks look like they would be notched out for the spring bars and the spring bars are not 2mm sized which means the gen bars probably dont fit also willing to bet the endlink connecting link isnt ribbed like the gen either. for the price i say pass

might need to have the accompanying retaining ring for a perfect match, besides that it should be compatible

project X with lugholes would be my suggestion

line up how? you would still need a datewheel overlay for the correct font and alignment with date window

very good for the price!

if youre going to sink 500 pounds sterling into it why dont you just buy the phong watch? youre current build will cost more

the cost youre quoting for the "PMWC" + ofrei pearl you can find several used gen inserts for that price. have you considered the WO insert +ofrei pearl (as pictured below)

i like the shape of the CGs you really got it right.

this is just a sample...for now. it doesnt even have lug holes...yet. adding a bevel to the next one i make since im going for a 9411 case set. but could live life as a tudor 7928 with some caseback unpolishing or no engraving and you got yourself a 5513 or 1680

im working on something special, if you have the patience it might be worth waiting. first sample, case already needs some changes thats all for now...shhhhh

yes that is true, his name was piccha, he rarely dealt with customers and handled the back end business, his brother nah is the store front man and who the shop is named after

enjoy Mr Piek, my advice to you is too thoroughly inspect what you buy before you hand over any money to him, he does not care about the quality of product he sells and they often lack QC -severely, his indifference to this and unwillingness to fix or halt these problems before selling them to foreign walking atm machines has caused me to sever all business relationships with him (as it costs me money in parts i cant sell or use). his business skill and manners are inept and atrocious, he is almost quite literally a watch nazi, if you ask too many questions "NO WATCH FOR YOU!" , you can give him thousands of dollars a week in business and he still wont tolerate you. but if you must buy a watch from him expect to wait a week or two to actually get it, do ask to see the inside of the case to check the movement (often dry, often seagul), do inspect the case threading, his refusal to get new tooling or request new tooling has lead to several batches having less than perfectly machined threading, if you experience rough turning casebacks or ones that dont turn smoothly its problematic, it will cross thread, asymmetrically cut crown guards, beveling, even asymmetrical case sides, some crown tubes are way too low, and some cases have noticeably stepped cutting. if you want to know more send me a pm before you go, because its at a point where 7 out of 10 watches from this guy shouldnt be sold.

same thing happened on the old 1:1 16610 MBW subs, retianing ring was pushing it back out once installed, problem was the bezel ring was too short in height to allow the insert to sit above the retaining ring once installed. i doubt this is whats happening here with the TC but something worth eliminating as a possibility

yeah i mentioned it, but a $128 beater you gotta admit its great value

glad you guys like it ! heres the shopping list: MBW 1665 case Clarks T39 gen insert gen vintage 703 crown yuki 703 tube ETA 2846 inGod dial Clarks hands supplied 1665/80 datewheel i suspect it originally came from an MBW supplied 93150 bracelet w/580 endlinks, looks to be an old PT 1680 bracelet CGs light trim lug holes drilled to 1.25mm accepts 2mm bars all gaskets greased and retaining ring gasket installed some HeValve massaging to give it some depth and contrast against the case caseback paint removed.

good Friday to you all, just finished this up. i always appreciate the 1665 when i see it, but i still find it sits too high on the wrist for my personal preference, i hope this one is enjoyed once it leaves my care.

i gotta say thats pretty damn nice ! and for $128! one thing that bugs me on this new wave of reps is the stumpier crown guards appearing across several models

not a fan

did he remove it? or is this a factory case with NO markings anywhere? if so, i need me one of these