kbh

Rex, the watchmaker on RG says he's now charging extra to service any movement that has had silicone put on the rotor. My suggestion is if it makes noise while you're shaking it, then stop shaking it. Why are you shaking it in the first place?

Where's Dave123 when you need him? He's the Breitling expert.

Huh? WM9 v3: Gen.......... You'll need to explain that one to me cause I'm not seeing it.

I'm with TeeJay. I hate the idea of people posting QC pictures and playing "spot the tells". Also, now that I own a timegrapher I've seen how easy it is to manipulate the evidence. I've seen movements that read 180 degrees on one position and 270 on another. Some that show +70 sec/day on one position and 0 sec on another position (as it rolls around from plus or minus 20 seconds. It's just when you take the picture.) I've also seen there can be a huge difference in amplitude on older movements when they aren't fully wound. In short, although timegraphers don't lie but pictures often do. And, you're a fool to believe that a movement is going to be within + or - a couple of seconds a day just because the picture in one position says so at one particular moment in time. Real life is a lot different.

And the dummy he has his real name plastered all over the bottom of an ad for an illegal replica. Along with a link to his Google+ page.

I returned a bracelet to Yuki a few months ago. Total piece of crap but he did quickly return my money. I have no idea if that was the same address but it doesn't look familiar.

I've replaced a couple of gen DJ acrylics with the Clark's and I can't see any difference at all. I wouldn't be able to tell one from another once they end up in my parts drawer.

I'd contact BK for more specifics. Often the biggest problem on a gen tube is the "shoulder" on it that needs to be countersunk for it to fit snug to the case even if the threads are the same.

This kind of fits into my unprovable theory that replica factories end up bulk buying all the movements that fail the factory's quality assurance tests. Every time I've swapped a movement with a new one from a legitimate company like Cousins or O'Frei, they seem to be of much better quality. Particularly the A21j movements.

I meant the little spacer so you have that right I have no idea about the stiffness other than I'm sure you can't hurt the movement by overwinding it. As for the times set, you probably forgot to re-set the spring arm in this picture:

I meant the thin spacer so I guess you got that right.The time set problem is you forgot to re-set the little spring arm in the picture probably. Can't help you with the other problems.

Did you use the dial spacer from the 2824 or the correct one for the Seagull 2836-2 clone? Could be you're binding up the stem in the case maybe with the wrong dial spacer?

Bank owned short sales are next to impossible without an "in" with the bank. That's why all the good deals get scooped up with cash while you're pissing around trying to get a mortgage. If that house was anywhere near me, I'd be paying cash for it Monday morning right after I went to my bank. And by Friday, it would be rented for $2000 a month. And for those saying "buy it anyway, as is". The problem is you won't be able to finance it until the problems that show up in the pre-sale inspection are fixed. Maybe you better think about a higher down payment where it's much easier to get financed.

Almost every legitimate watch company has been knocking off the DateJust case for many years. Obviously design patent isn't much of a problem.

These rep cases are made by the same companies that make watches for the Chinese masses. They're not made in sweatshops and they could be made to gen specs if they wanted to make them.

Hey they have inexpensive 4 axis laser reading machines now that do exact duplicates of most anything. Unfortunately they only make the duplicates out of plastic.

I don't think it would be very appropriate for a "replicaswatchdropshipper" to be advertising on a replica forum where dealers are strongly vetted before they can sell their goods.

I always thought JK meant "Just kidding."

That's correct. As soon as it leaves the US you're in limbo. I think the only way to get tracking outside US is with buying insurance. Also the USPO offers no guarantees on delivery times. Once it leaves their hands, they have no control. It may be in HK Customs for weeks. How would they know?

A gen Hangzhou 6300. Some of the tells are the shock system has one hole and the gold spring holding the jewel in the shock system is less curly than the ETA. The + sign is almost off the edge of the bridge but the easiest is the writing on the rotor is too close to the edge of the rotor. On the ETA rotor the lettering is approximately 50% of the size of the fonts away from the edge. On the 6300 it's closer to 25%.

Not sure what you mean about a "kit" but to do it properly you also need to remove all the associated winding gears, essentially changing it to as close to a 7760 movement as you can get. The ETA 7760 was discontinued about 10 years ago. This mod also allows you to use the thinner 'mystery movement" case back.

I'm finding that what a timegrapher says has a rather superficial meaning compared to the real world. Don't expect your watch to maintain a plus or minus 1 second just because it reads that on the timegrapher. There can be a rather large time variation in the different positions. And even more when you factor in the amount of winding tension on the mainspring.

The 7750 movement is well made and reliable. But in my opinion, only after servicing. I have and love the 288 but I was hard winding, the anti-reverse click was sticking and the chrono second hand didn't reset properly after the first week. I had it serviced and the report back on how dirty it was (with pictures) was amazing. Since servicing it's been awesome.

This is a nice navy with blue stitching. It's a Hirsch Leonardo. Not sure how close it is to what you're looking for.