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Reading this I couldn't help but wonder why you would need to countersink the case for a new tube either.

Josh is the easiest web site to order from and I'd swear he never sleeps. He generally answers an e-mail with in 10 minutes. Generally you'll get a tracking number within 24 hours and the watch in less than 2 weeks, often 5 to 7 days. There are lots of cheaper dealers but he also has about the best after sales service if you have a problem he will stand behind it 100% Just make sure you get his most current web site as there are now a couple of bogus Perfect Clones web sites that are scams.

River has a nice Daytona MBW case with gen dial and hands and an Ebel el primero movement that he's just getting ready to put up for sale. Saw a post today on RG about it. It might save you a lot of time and effort. white daytona

Here's what straight pool chlorine will do in a very short time.

I used pool chlorine, but you have to be careful because it doesn't take long.I don't remember exactly how long I left it in but somewhere around 30 seconds and it came out a little lighter than I had wanted.

I would generally agree about the 94% feedback, but if you read it, it's a negative from someone that apparently is [censored] because he didn't get to buy the item. Not that it was defective or wrong. "what a waster. item won he said he had a reserve. not true. said sold 3days ago"

Thanks gplracer. Best I can say from that is mine has the same case back as the one of the left. I still couldn't tell which was which from looking as Ubi didn't make clear which was which.

I bought one from a forum member about a year and a half ago who bought it from another member. From the two bezels I have, I've assumed it's not a Yuki. How would one know if it was a EE? Is there something different about them.

The pearl looks off center. I've seen a couple of new ones like that unless you've posted pictures on other forums.

Come on Cats, You know that wasn't the same as what TS is selling. And I agree that was a piece of poop. The original seller hasn't been named yet, but it's certainly not the one as pictured in the sales post from TS. If it is, I don't think TS will be a trusted dealer much longer on the forum. Edit: Here's a quote I just received from the buyer of that abortion: This is not Timeshop's noob. If you order it, let me know how you like it when you get it. I almost ordered Mark's.

Narikaa had them for around $68 when he was in Thailand. PWC has them regularly for somewhere around $70, as I recall. He's currently out of stock though. Even Josh's Beginmariner for $108 delivered makes a dial and hands at around $60 delivered way too expensive in my book.

Follow the link to RWI where he's a trusted dealer and order through there. This is a special sale and I don't know if it's it's on his website since I haven't bought one.

I'm sorry but some things really burn me up on rep forums and a lot are FS posts with ridiculous prices. I could have posted this in the sales thread but that would be rather rude, I suspect. I was just looking at a sale for a Noob dial and hands for roughly $51 plus PP fees and shipping extra. Apparently someone actually bought it so I know you're going to say the market is whatever a seller is willing to pay. Well, some sellers are suckers that shouldn't be taken advantage of. The whole watch can be bought for less than what the esteemed member wants for the dial and hands. Currently Mark at Timeshops is selling this watch for $40 plus PP and shipping extra. The thread ie here:Timeshops Noob Here's part of his sales post: Movement type: asian 21j automatic - 40USD asian copy 2836 - 93USD swiss eta 2836 - 129USD asian copy swiss rolex 3135 movement - 191USD Above watch detail: 1. brushed high grade 316L steel band 2. hollow midlinks of the band. high quality ! 3. the bezel and pearl absolutely be centered correctly ! it's perfect ! 4. strongly and perfect green lume. (yes. already test) 5. Noobfactory made 1:1 version perfect ! 6. Our Noobfactory Rolex watch Have V serial. and it's best version and new version came out from noobfactory. please buy with confidence ! 7. Only Rolex SUB ceramic bezel version have blue lume as same as Deep sea. another 3 version are all green lume just like oringinal watch.

If you'll pardon the lousy photo, I was pretty impressed with this one from Josh that I bought a couple years ago. My wife wears it quite often and the plating is still like new. The Eta 2671 keeps excellent time.

I'd go for something like this:

About 7 turns seems to be about average for me on winding Eta movements too. I have had both a cheap Miyota movement, a gen Seiko and a couple of other 21j movements that seem to spring to life immediately after picking them up and starting to wind them. I can't answer the question "why?", but it seems to be normal.

Freddy, I've always been unsure of which position to remove the stem in for different movements. Didn't The Zigmeister suggest removing it from the time set position on the 2836? Seems like I remember that and it's been good for me. It would be nice if there was a definitive table for all the popular movements for which is correct removal. But my question is: You mention removing it after you "pull the crown/stem out to the winding position (1st click)". To me the first click would be the date change position. Am I just mis-reading what you are saying? It's somewhat confusing.

Cousins UK has the correct tube. Tube K in their catalog. New tube is on the left and is much higher quality. You'll probably have to source a new crown from a dealer. Ruby got one for me. Davidsen can also get you one but he was more expensive.

I've got 7 /12" wrists and have the same problem. It seems to be worse when putting Narikaa's strap on Sead's Eta version PO which I currently have. I don't think there's a solution so I went back to the metal bracelet. Like you say, it's just too stiff where it connects to the watch head.

I personally don't see anything wrong with yours. Mine had the right edge of the "s" lined up at the 12 marker. It was way off center to the right. I believe there seems to be a little variation in the gen pictures I've looked at. Yours seems almost dead one to this gen picture.

That ring lock piece can come out but it has to come out through the top which means taking off the bezel and crystal. I got it all disassembled down to the bezel and couldn't get the bezel off. After several hours of trying, I put it back together and sold the watch. Mine was way off and it was the first and last purchase from Jackie Chen, one of the trusted dealers here. He refused to do anything about it.

Unless I'm missing something, no the spring doesn't pop the crown out to the winding position. After unscrewing the crown you have to manually pull it out to wind it. Edit: I think I misread your question. I think Ubi has got it though.

17013 Oysterquartz was my first ever Rolex. Best watch I ever owned.

Yep! Never had a super franken in mind. It would be interesting to have International Dial give us their opinion on this thread, since they're supposed to be one of the top dial refinishers.

To be perfectly honest I got the exact responses that I expected. But as Ubi said, "at the end of the day you're building it for yourself". This is going into a old MBK cased Sub that had keyless works problem that I paid $60 for. So I'm going to have a newly superlumed vintage Sub with a refinished gen dial and an a nicely working clone movement for less than $125 . So what if it glows like Chernobyl? I'm pretty damn sure I'll get my money's worth of fun out of it.