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chiman12

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Everything posted by chiman12

  1. Can anyone tell me if the dealers are still selling the Ultimate SuperOcean Steelfish? What are the differences between the Ultimate and other offerings? The reason I ask is that I read some where that the Ultimates were sold out. Thanks in advance!
  2. See my response above...same thing with the Space-Dweller.
  3. You are fortunate, because all I did was install a Rail 1665 and the the seconds hash marks rubbed off...
  4. InGod dials, while accurate , have very weak print and will rub off easily. You'll have to treat them carefully. I have seen other sellers, from time to time, offer really accurate dials and you'll have to snap them up on the spot. Overall quality of dials(printwise) from low to high...IMO... 1. InGod 2. Yuki 3. NDT/Phong/Cartel(yes! Cartel dials have very good print quality) InGod makes accurate dials, but there are less to choose from, while the others have a pool of dial makers and source different dials on a regular basis. NDT (Natalie's Passion) has recently been offering up some really good dials. A couple of more suggestions...keep you eye out on Swissdialco on fleabay, they do redials and ever so often, they will list extra dials. I missed a 5514 re-dial that they did and it was stellar. Plan your project, then do some research...sometimes patience is the key to a good vintage project...
  5. On a suburban tac-ops misson today...yes...I need to go get groceries!!!!
  6. chiman12

    Tudor...

    I call it...the TANK...
  7. Nice comparo L!! The only thing that I'm missing to complete my 7149 is...the case Was hoping DW would offer up one soon...
  8. It's either the Yuki or Phongs FF offering at $950... http://www.jewelryandwatch.com/index1.html Page 3
  9. NDT has a dial...it's nice, but is mucho dollars
  10. The case actually looks too thin. If you zoom in on the back side, you can actually see a "divot" caused by the crown tube encroaching upon the back edge of the case. I don't think the case is any better than a noob case, except for a better crown position due to the use of a clone 3135.
  11. J are you looking to get modder of th year? Great job once again dude!
  12. The TOG looks good Red! Glad that you could use it!
  13. J...you've been working on a secret mission without letting me know! COMEON! They look good btw...
  14. As Darth Vader would say...Impressive...most impressive...
  15. man...those DW cases are pretty good...
  16. Red! It looks like a second hand tube broke off on the pinion. I would just take the dial off and take a look close. The old tube can be removed and the new hand installed. Let me know if you need any movement parts, because I got some in the bin...
  17. It is okay, the paint is more fragile than other dials. But accuracy wise...inGod is the tops!
  18. Definitely not P...the st19 is quite a bit larger than the V72...
  19. J...the function feels fine. I don't think the angle to the chrono lever is that severe that it will cause problems in the future. In addition, it probably takes only about 5psi (if that???) to engage the chrono lever. But time will tell...that is if I don't sell it first!
  20. Thanks everyone...but I am not fullyly convinced that the cartel with the mod and a new dial is the way to go. Especially when the price of a DW with the mystery movement is within striking range and doesn't require that "L" shaped arm. In fact, I would much prefer the DW with the 7760 and deal with the minor sub-dial issue... The next thing I'll do is install a spare DW bezel and replace the crown/tube...
  21. I took some time off on a couple of projects (sorry Flex!) and focused on the cartel 6263 that has been recently released with the the asymmetrical pusher configuration, but has crappy sub-dials. I bought the white PN dial. Besides the big crappy sub-dials, the rest of the dial isn't actually too bad. But the killer is the sub-dials. They are a larger than gen and the hour sub-dial even bleeds into the outside track of the dial. Definitely 2 thumbs down! When you turn over the watch, you will notice that one of the pusher notches doesn't seem to be cut as deep as the other... There is a reason for this, which I will explain later. Opening the case...a shot of inside the case back. Once again not too bad, engravings are deep, fonts are pronounced... Shot of the famous Seagull movement that was used in this rep. But waitaminute...the Seagull has symmetrical pusher configuration, so how can the new cartel vintage Daytona's have asymmetrical pushers? Here is the cartel's answer to the symmetrical/asymmetrical problem... For the top pusher, the cartel fashioned a little "L" shaped arm that attaches to the pusher. This "L" shaped arm actually compensates for the difference in distance between a symmetrical and asymmetrical pusher position. The offset is a good 6 to 8mm. This also explains why one of the pusher notches is not as deep as the other one. The cartel had to machine a groove in the case to fit the "L" shaped arm and as a result, the corresponding pusher need to be shortened. Though not noticable at first or even second glance, the top pusher is a bit shorter than the bottom pusher. I give the cartel this credit...very ingenious, but when the watch is flipped over, the notch is a sure tell. Otherwise, when the watch sits on your wrist, the notch is not noticable at all. In my exploration, I also discovered that the seagull can never have the proper sub dial spacing for a Daytona. I bought an InGod44 PN dial just for the purpose of modding the cartel to give it the same sub-dial spacing as a gen Daytona. I discovered this... InGod dial on top and the cartel dial on the bottom. Notice how the cartel hour sub-dial post hole is slightly lower than the InGod? Yup...a gen-spec dial is not a direct swap. BUT...I wasn't going to give up, so I proceeded to tear apart the Daytona and I discovered the following. As you may well know, the hour totalizer (sub-dial) is static for the Seagull movement...in other words, it is not functional. Here is the little gear responsible for holding the hour totalizer hand in place. The hour gear needs to be moved slightly upwards, but the gear is set into place by a pivot and a pivot hole machined into the top plate of the movement. I had to either move the position of the pivot hole or remove the pivot. I decided that to remove the pivot would be the easiest way. So I proceeded to file down the pivot, until it was gone and the gear sat flat on the surface of the movement plate. I then took the cover plate...Notice that the plate keeps the hour gear in a specific spot. So I enlarged the hour gear hole by using one of my trusty broaches. But the gear had to stay in its new position, so I used some cold weld adhesive to affix the gear into the proper place on the movement plate. I used slow set cold weld adhesive as this would provide some extra time to move the hour gear into the proper position. I quickly reinstalled the cover plate and placed the InGod dial onto the movement. I then aligned the post to the new dial. Here is the end result... After the adhesive has dried, I used dial dot tape to install the InGod dial. Notice that the hour post is in the middle... The hands go back on... ...and the final product...the subdial issue for the vintage cartel Daytona...solved!!! Okay...back to Flex's projects...
  22. I've taken mine apart already and with the seagull movement have symmetrical chrono levers, the cartel had to actually pre-fab a little arm to offset one of the pushers to make it assymmetrical and this is the reason that one of the pusher recesses are not as deep. But it is not apparent at first glance or on the wrist.
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