chiman12

My Rolexes and their extended Tudor family... yes...I have a problem...

U WILL BE ASSIMILATED... And she is a looker J!

IMO...the 1601 would be good for certain generation of 1016 and the 16xxx better for others...I don't think that the answer is as simple as "this case" will be perfect for all 1016 builds. Research...research...research....

She is a beaut E! You have inspired me sir...now...if I only can get other peoples project off my plate!

Well...than ain't I the unlucky one then! Does anyone know who can plug the pusher holes and reconfigure it into a V72 pusher config for me (no...I'm not making a 626x)? Gotta salvage something of it...

I used the Yuki mid-case and the case back, DW bezel, unknown source for the minute/hour/chrono hands, and NOS unkwown 7750 hands for the subdial hands. I found that DW cases are a little inaccurate as far as the case back and pusher recess goes. For instance, there are indents at the bottom of the pushers, where the gen doesn't have any. MY DW case... gen case... In addition, I found the serifs for the DW case back too exaggerated...almost making the engravings look too "cartoony." I also agree that the DW dial is currently the king of this market, but much prefer the old school dial version that comes up from time to time.

Wow...I haven't seen an ECW in ages!!! She is definitely a beaut and a rarity!

R!!!! Glad you checked in!!! Haven't heard from you in awhile!!!

yeah! I wanna know too and if the claim of a 1:1 case is correct...watch out! Maybe I should just buy one and get it over with...

Love that bezel with that dial!!! I had one, but unfortunately I sacrificed it to the Explorer gods of Rolex...

F*ck D...that strap looks stunning with that Daytona! You don't happen to have another one like it? If so please PM me...I'm really getting tired of metal bracelets.

yeah...sucks donkey nuts...but they are rotating strikes, so you will get it eventually...

with the xacto knife...very carefully lift...

Freddy...I pried up on the bezel just enough to get an xacto knife blade in between the crystal and the insert...and carefully pried up a wider blade micro screw driver all around and slowly worked the insert off

My GMT IIc with the CHS running has been running strong for a few years now and I recently decided that it need a few updates. The AR on the cyclops is definitely on my hit list as well as a gen dial...if one can be had for a cheap price. But my first update is a gen bezel that I bought a little while ago. Here is the outcome: I must say that the rep bezel quite different than the gen bezel. The edges of the rep bezel font are sharp, while they are smooth on the gen. The fill (paint) for the rep bezel is a distinct color, while for the gen, it will flip and change according to lighting. Plus the zeroes on the rep bezel is pretty much a square "0", while on the gen, they have a slight bulge to them. With this, I had to set the insert into place and didn't want to deal with set times and the mess associated with liquid adhesives. I also didn't want to use dial tape, because I always thought that it didn't have enough "sticking force" to ensure that bezel insert will stay in place. In addition, dial tape will lose it's adhesiveness with time. One day I ran across this tape... It is 3m Very High Bond (3M F9460PC)VHB) adhesive transfer tape and I am very impressed with it! It is easy to handle and replaces rivets, bolts, screws, welding and liquid adhesives and is made specifically for metal to metal bonds! The tape is good to -40F to 300F and resists moisture, UV and solvents, is clear and unobtrusive. The tape is available in a variety of thicknesses and widths (I used 1" by 2 mil). The kicker is that you can get 60 yards of tape for less than $40! I had historically used glue to retro-fit my dials, but I'm going to give this tape a try in the future. Afterall there are no messes and drying times to deal with and this 3M tape has stronger holding power than traditional dial tape. I give this tape my :good: rating

Awesome tute S! Excellent easy mods to make your noob look better.

Looks really good Marty!!!

DON'T DO IT!!!!!

According to the serial, the case is about 66 or 67, which means it should have had a thicker lipped bezel. My Japanese reference books indicte that thin bezels didn't occur until the late 70's/early 80's for the 1016. Plus it does look too small... So...very suspicious...

Holy crapper...I would make my son earn his way through University instead selling the Rolex collection!

The WM9 was cheaper at the introductory price, but there was almost a 2 yr wait time and the prices sky rocketed from there. You can't compare apple to oranges, because some people now want in the range of $650 to $1000 (depending on which sub) for a WM9. In addition, you had to deal with the crown recess in between the cgs, in which the crown almost came in contact with the bezel. This is the sure tell of a WM9 sub. BK had to work his magic on the crown tube to prevent the crown from grinding down on the bezel. I had one time owned the WM9 LV and the TT...

I've got a couple of H-4 2824 coming from BK and I'll defintiely post the projects once I am done. I'm actually pretty psyched about these projects!!!

Interesting as I thought the WM9 cases only used 2824's as they could also fit gen movements. Maybe it is just the same bezel insert? Because if you used the 2836, then that would mean that the crown position is lower than the 2824 (is that not correct?). This would mean that the crown would be substantially lower, which doesn't seem like it i the pics (but it could be pics). In addition, a 2846 is shown in the pics, does this movement has the same stem height of a 2824 and maybe it is an error in movement description? But the gen spec YM case that Sean is selling is different than the WM9. There are subtle differences in the bezel insert and the crown position. According to a first hand source Sean has never heard of WM9 ...

Neither did I. I did see a TW best though....