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i'd like to add that you should buy from one of the trusted dealers here - who will make a sale right...it might not always be a simple process, but its better... also - make sure you get QC pix from the dealer you are working with...if you want a direct dial shot, ask for it...if the hand isn't right, ask for another one...the dealer should select another one and send you new pix...also request that they run and reset any chrono watch...this won't guarantee that it will work right when it arrives (anything can happen in shipping and/or it might not be checked by the dealer) but at least you have recourse because you requested that... like many things - its all about managing expectations and communications... good luck...

hi Croc...welcome to RWG... watch is gorgeous...i picked up a gen dial from Smidsy, too - a steelfish one...he's great to work with... i also brushed one of my skyland avengers...it makes a world of difference and is one of my favorite avengers... a couple questions: 1) what did you use or the process to brush your case?...did you brush the bracelet, too?, 2) how did you remove the bezel?...tools, processes?... thanks for sharing and once again welcome to RWG... wear the SA well! R-

and forgot to add that one of the better white dial steelfish (it's actually creme'ish) has silver marker and numbers on the dial that actually look golden in color?!...go figure... @P4 --> never noticed the "1"s on the bezel before...nice catch... @BT --> slightly recessed SELs?...never noticed that either...

having read quite a few posts - especially one of justin's chrono tudor build, i have a question on the proper positioning of the cyclops on both rolex and tudor date models...mike set my cyclops on my Tudor build, and it looks great... from what i see, the tudor cyclops appears to be set closer the crystal edge and toward the right side of the date window...rolex is more toward the left of the window...either way, i'm just not sure and wonder what is the proper positioning?...i'm not sure of differences between the setting of the cyclops between rolex and tudor either...thought the placement was to maximize the "fill" of the date in the cyclops? if someone can describe it and/or share pictures, that would be a great help and appreciated... thanks...

Working a Breitling vintage project - gulp, i know - and have already successfully toasted the dial...the dial had c3/green rep lume and it has mellowed to a nice lite brown; almost like vintage tritium...i'm using a toaster oven set at 350 degrees... my problem is the hands...they having matching c3/green lume; but after twice the amount of time in the oven there's been little change...i then switched it from bake to broil - and broiled it for 10-15 minutes...no change... ...so i'm trying to sort out the next step...i've used iodine on my first rolex project - but the rep lume was already creme/white, not c3/green... any advice on what to try next and whether you have experience with c3/green turning lite brown is appreciated... thanks, guys! R-

cool...let's see pix of the v1 Navi... if your source has more v1 Navi's, send me a pm..i'm sure others would say the same... R-

regarding breitling date font versus eta date font--> yes...if you take a look at my watch it has a breitling date font - notice the "7" in "27"...then take a look at P4's eta date font's "7" in "17"...notice the difference?...same is true for the other numbers... re: P4's nickel-plated original version...its a true eta movement and it has an eta datewheel...these had very nice dials - the best...but there was a version that came out in limited quantities at about the same time - it had the usual brass/gold eta movement (genuine, too) but had a breitling date font datewheel -- it too, had the best dial...then there a couple of clone eta movement versions - with breitling date font date wheels... regarding my comment on the bezel and case edge - you can see what i mean in P4's last pix...notice how you can see the case top near the edge around 9 o'clock?... hope all this helps... others can chime in...but i spent an obsessive amount of time researching the various configurations of the steelfish and have owned at least 6 different "swiss" versions...i finally determined that the "best" rep of the steelfish needed to be assembled... R-

there are definitely differences...but unfortunately, they are built with various cases, dials, dws, crystals and coating...yes - there's many combinations...i know this first hand after owning many of them...on the case, you will see that on some the bezel covers the watch face, and others you can see the watch case...there are differences in the shape of the crown guards - the flat is larger on one versus the other...also, the crystal on one is flush with the case, on the other it rises slightly... there's also differences in movement/dw combinations...the orig models with gen eta had gen eta dw...then they went to a more accurate dw, but it was put on an eta clone... the best combination is only achieved by putting a couple together...gen eta movement with breitling dw...crystal with double ar flush...crown guard has larger flat areas...bezel is slightly smaller than the case -exposing the case near the edge... there are differences in dials, too... bottom line - i would always go for the best dial and dw... good luck... here's mine - with gen dial... R-

wow...very interesting...who would have known?!

Picked this up on a tip from Toad (missing in action?!) from Silix for a whopping $125usd about a year ago...a sharp piece with a great dial (similar to the gen, but missing the date window)...it may not be replimaniacally accurate, but it sure does look the deal... the only problem with the watch is that it comes with NO AR...yup, not a bit...so i had the crystal coated with blue tinted double AR - the crystal is a really sharp dome type... enjoy... R-

very cool...for some reason, i think it would look better with only one of the emblems attached...long strap, i think...thinking this could be a nice one for my 036.... thanks for sharing and wear it well... R-

dibs!...

ok...here's the scoop... if you have the low beat Navi, then 1) the eta7750 will fit the case w/o mod (high beat Navi cases will not accept the eta7750 due to the plate between movement and dial...it won't line up right... 2) the high beat, newer Navi's have the plate referred to; leading to a sunken datewheel...the low beat version does not - so the dw is almost flush... 3) low-beat Navi handset will fit the eta7750 movement...they are a direct fit and will not need broaching/etc...but they will need gen tritec lume on the hands to match the dial... your Navi above definitely looks low-beat and the older model that will take the eta7750...check out the dw and see how its almost flush?...and your slide rule scale should be close to aligned...its not perfect, but its closer than the newer Navi's, for sure... as for the gen dial, from what i know, you will have to shave it down approximately 1mm in diameter to fit....its a great looking dial...if you don't mind, where did you get it and how much was it?... good luck with your project...i am in the process of assembling my Fighter...take the time and brush the case and bracelet...and line-up someone for aftermarket ar...without blue tinted high quality ar, it won't look legit... fyi - i own the 2002 ti/gold black dial Aerospace with utc...my grail... R

wow...very sharp pair...love the blue... what are the details/source on the black dial tudor insert and pearl?

great review Christian...love the detail and background...thanks for sharing!...

looks great...what was the process/tools used for the brushed finish?... thanks for sharing...

hmmmmmmmm... just checked and i couldn't believe that i wasn't connected to you Pete...so, i'm officially requesting friend status...(fingers crossed) must have had you confused with Mickey Padge...you Brits all look alike...

hey U...thanks for sharing...always love to see these vintage pieces... the bracelet looks really good - and definitely is better than the strap...i am not a gold fan either, but i think you've found a nice mate for the watch... enjoy wearing it... R-

i thought the 2892 didn't have a crown and chrono pushers on the same line - which your current case needs?!

i'm measuring with a caliper over the xtal...i set the caliper at 8.06mm and it's pretty darn close!...i'm thinking - yes!...re-measured and it is 8.06mm...it might work, S!...

what measurements?...from the center to the 3' subdial center is approx 7.62mm - give or take...tough to measure it accurately...but that's pretty close...

or post a WTB for a pre-owned one...you could always sell the components - the bracelet is one of the best out there and could fetch $75usd - at least i'd pay that amount for it...parting out a B'Bird could help offset the movement cost...there's also a lot of BCE fans out there that could build a fantasy piece with the carcass...my 2 cents...

I'm thinking it might...should be the same thickness as the Navi tri-compax movements that fit these old skool cases (of which, i own 2), i'm thinking - but not sure...perhaps a pm to Z might help to answer that... these old skool cases are great...