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Ronin

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Everything posted by Ronin

  1. Don’t use bleach! As Freddy said. If you are hell bent on lightening it you can try Denture Cleaner or go to a beauty supply store and get creamy peroxide. Although a vintage computer trick Google Retro-Brighting. Maybe a baking-soda paste also.
  2. I think there is probably a optimal middle ground there. Yes, too snug, especially on folded bracelets could introduce ’actual’ stretch or widening of the seams. Similarly, more friction under flex, like pressing harder on a knife. More friction, but less often. Too Loose and floppy, jiggly+ dirt will accelerate pin wear. More movement, more wear, more often. (Case in point lady’s Rolex’s see the most wear as they tend to wear them super loose.) Find the Goldilocks zone, proper fit, and wear should be reduced. I think the key takeaway is that it really isn’t stretch as it is pin wear. Minimizing that wear on the pins is the best bet on preserving.
  3. They are completely different watches. The J-Time has a thinner case, better centered crown tube, and Genuine like construction of the Bezel. (I can make gen Crystal and Gen-like Bezel fit) The Trusty/BP has a thicker case, off center crown, and totally different Bezel/crystal construction. The Trusty doesn't come close to genuine looking in my eye. ... but it will probably be more reliable.
  4. I think you are confusing the use of 'cartel'. It is a meaningless term that simply indicates Chinese Volume Replica TD's. All of the dealers basically have access to the same watches/factories and the same prices. However, there are different versions from different factory's (eg. NOOB, BP, VSF, etc.) and certain TDs may prefer a certain factory. Moving past the cartel (I hate typing that), you get into the Vietnam and Craft stuff that more closely mimicks 1:1 vintage Rolex. For example the going rate for a complete Vietnam 6542 with 1035 movement will still set you back $8000 and the 1035 movement will probably be crap. The J-Time is different, I have 2 of them. They are actually built to order. The Trusty Time is most likely BP factory or whatever factory similarly turn our "Tiger Concept's"... The J-Time, being "built to order" is fine/better if you know how to handle, fix, further modify. Out of 2, my Black Dial 6542 had Hand alignment issues. The hour and minute hand needed reinstalled by me. My White Dial 6542, I can see the Crown Tube is at an angle, and the stem length causes some issues. Also, the J-Time has lots of sharp edges. I ended up "softening" the bezel coin edge with a diamond file and the lugs. (The lugs still need reshaped in my opinion). I also removed the bezel to fix the spring-wire to add more tension. The Trusty (BP?) will probably be a better grab and go as it looks more like a Homage turned Replica... Just be prepared. It is rare to buy a replica and have everything just work.
  5. Yes Genuine is 47.4mm - lug to lug JTime is 48.4mm - lug to lug Lug 'Hole' to Lug 'Hole', oddly is flipped Genuine is 43.9 Hole to Hole JTime is 42.8 Hole to Hole You are not wrong. This optical appearance you are seeing it clear. JTime is 1mm longer and the bracelet is pulled in 1mm. Below is JTime with a Genuine C&I bracelet. You can see the profile & length difference. This is exaggerated by the C&I's end-links being stubbier. It is still a pretty good watch and these lugs could be reshaped to fix the issue.
  6. A DG3804 will usually have a proper DWO for Rolex 15xx dials. I did a 1675 years ago with a Gen Case, Gen Dial, BUT with a DG3804. I used the stock DG3804 movement without custom DWO without issue. The DG3804 I used came out of a "Chronotac" GMT Homage watch. At the time, the 3804's Ofrei was selling had a different DWO so YMMV. You also have the Hangzhou 6460 Automatic GMT Movement DATE at 3.00 ETA 2836-2 GMT Clone - option. HR sells one with proper DWO - https://helenarou.com/hangzhou-6460-automatic-gmt-movement-date-at-300-eta-283646030028362.html So that begs another question, is the date window position the same on a 6542 as the 1675. Going off the fact they both use a Tropic 116, me thinks so. 🙂 ...and yet another question in building a 6542 out of a Cartel base, would the 'pan' genuine style 6542 dial be a mistake vs getting a flat dial-feet style dial say from a 1675?
  7. It is my understanding that "wear it loose" actually accelerates wear and tear on the pins. (Seen especially in woman's DJ Jubilee bracelets, who tend to wear watches as loose jewelry). I think logic goes something like this: The stretch is not really stretch, it a thinning by wear of the pins in the hollow links. As the pin thins, this creates more space and the impression of stretch. Get the pin thin enough and it will bend making the stretch seem even worse. Eventually, the pin wears through and snap, the bracelet breaks. Combine loose, with dirt, and the excess movement of a loose watch flopping around on the wrist, and that metal on metal wears through faster. So, if this is the case, wearing a vintage watch "properly" fitted and snug, should decelerate the wear and tear on the pins that give cause stretch. Here is a perfect example of the wear on the pins giving the illusion of stretch. In reality, the links now have more "slack". Edit to add, you also get wear through on the links. It is blurry in the photo, but look at the mid-links, you can see those have also lost material. A double whammy...
  8. @Nanuqis that dial true gilt relief? And Dark Lord?
  9. By chance, any pics of Mary's bracelet?
  10. 😳 Wow @Nanuq I think I can continue to wear mine. :)
  11. Thanks gang. So would you guys wear my above with the current stretch levels? Especially my favorite 6215? These are all on Gen watches. I have to imagine, that even if one of the links wore completely through, it would bind and not necessarily fall off my wrist? I probably shouldn’t drive with my arm out the window though :-). One more thing, has anyone used heard of rolliworks.com ? They claim to be experts in bracelet restoration.
  12. Here are some photos. The 6215 for my Gen 1675 is the most comfortable bracelet I have ever had. I am fearful it will break. Thoughts on these? I just realized there are more links tucked into the clasp-- as most of these are Micro-Adjusted inwards to shorten them for my 6.8" wrist...
  13. I’m guessing there is zero parts interchangeability between 15xx an 30xx. (eg. reversers)
  14. AWA's. I am on my second 1570 awa in my 1680 😞 ... I see tons of awa's for 3xxx series Rolex movements, but it is getting rare to see 15xx.
  15. Freddie, thank you. That polishing block is what I am after. Since I have an extra rep 116710 bracelet I can practice on that.
  16. Thanks! Michael Young was the name I remember. I’ll post some pics of the stretch. My fear is loosing the Gen watches these service. I understand the stretch comes from the pins wearing thin and ultimately thru. Pics tomorrow.
  17. I am doing some mod work on 116710's and 126710's and absolutely dislike Polished Center Link's PCL's on the bracelets. I am willing to dive in and "brush" the center links, but was wondering if anyone has any suggestions? 3M Pads by hand? Can it be done with "quality"? I tried swapping Submariner bracelets over, but prefer the smaller clasp of the xx6710's. Bench Grinder with appropriate wheel? Thanks in advance!
  18. I have the following genuine bracelets that could all use a little TLC to fix the stretch. A Google search yields me a handful of options, but some seem sketchy. Anyone have any recommendations? I am also not opposed to DIY, but I fear the tools & parts are probably out of reach. C&I 7206 Rivet from '68 6215H from 1973 B-Links 9315 (Late 60's IIRC) 93150 (Early) and, I forgot the model, but a "Stretchy/Expandro" Genuine 19mm Rivet for a Daytona Thanks!
  19. Thanks. Your posts are always awesome and educational. I wonder if there is an opportunity here. The Seiko Aftermarket solved this exact problem giving options from 2.5 down to 1.8 and maintaining Gen like fit and quality connections. Aka the Skinny Fat. I wonder what would be involved in having custom SB made? 🤔 Case in point there are so many 62510H Jubilee’s out there with 555 end links with 1.8 center links. That could be used on 4/5 digit GMTs and Subs (with lug holes). All we need is the right SB to get the job done and maintain the lug whole appearance that I think looks awesome. 😃.
  20. Edited my original post. Basically, looking for 1.8mm spring bars but with the full length of a 2.0mm and with thicker ends to take up all the room in the lug hole.
  21. Does anyone know if there are aftermarket spring bars for Rolex 4-digit "Sport" models that maintain the length and the outer push-area thickness, but have center area in the 1.8mm range? The rationale behind this is to use bracelets with "5" ending end-links on watches that otherwise require a "0" ending end-link? In Seiko land where they have ridiculously think 2.2mm+ spring bars that do not fit most aftermarket straps/bracelets and are often too thick for NATO's the market responded with "Skinny Fat" springbars to bridge the gap. I have used Explorer 1016 & 1601 springbars to get the bracelets with "5" end-links on watches like a 1675, but they don't quite fill out the lug-to-lug like a true 2mm... Any ideas?
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