The yearly rattling of the sabers.
From what I can see, the focus is more on MPAA/RIAA mass produced media. Handbags and infringement on "Sports" memorabilia. Right now, the NFL, MLB, RIAA, MPAA are some of the groups being catered to. They probably have more money and lobbyists than the watch industry in this current recession.
Dare I say 'fake watch' crackdowns are rather passe' these days.
"Stay calm, and carry on"
Bezel looks MBW, and it could be the lighting, but the datewheel is very 'dark' silver.
Crystal and Crown = Gen.
Lug holes look drilled, lacking taper. (Again, could be from angle, or case buffings)
While not the norm, I have a 14yr old Miyota 8215 powered Submariner that is still running, never serviced, just now showing signs of dry/gumming.
I have had great luck with the ETA based stuff as well.
You might want to consider the TimeZone watch school. The knowledge from this class has armed me with what I feel I need to maintain my reps. Worse case at least the R&R of movements.
If you get the point where you can are are comfortable R&Ring (remove and replace) movements keep in mind:
Brand New 21J's (DG2813's) are $15.00
Brand New Swiss 2836's are about $125.00
Edit to add: IF you are a chrono guy with A7750's, get them serviced and use the chrono sparingly.
Food for thought.
Freddy333 is correct. Although Japanese is a 2nd language I know, I can only make out the Hirigana/Katakana. My Kanji is too rusty.
It actually reads a lot like an updated version of Brozek's "The Rolex Report", from what I can make out.
Edit to add: The Japanese are in love with the Daytona. It is perhaps the "grail" watch of most Japanese businessmen. I had a run in with a Japanese waitress while wearing my Black Widow Daytona Rep at a Sushi bar. I doubt it was my charming personality, but she wouldn't leave me alone.
There was old rule from when I used to build race cars. (Ahhh the SCCA days). If it was not a "torque" wrench required fastener--
Tighten to a positive stop, + a 1/4 turn.
NOTE: The above applies to cars not watches, but with experience you can use a similar logic.
For me with watch bits--
Tighten to a positive stop, + an hour turn. (hour turn in my mind is - if you stop/bottom with your screwdriver blade at 12:00 & 6:00, turn tight to 1:00 & 7:00) ~make sense?
I would use the same logic with a case back. Maybe going out "2 hours" for tightness.