lhooq

Beautiful 35th, S! Poolmaster 3:

According to mcotter on another forum, the bezel is by Phong and the dial is by Kirk Rich. I'm not sure where he was able to find that out, but if true, those parts aren't going to be cheap. I love the detail and quality, but the basic proportions just look wrong.

Thanks, mattheis! All the parts came from Cousins. At the time, it was the cheapest source for a new Omega mesh. Mind you, this seems to change from month to month, so check with Ofrei before making an order. You want "Omega 020ST1380237 Stainless Steel Bracelet (X21261)" Bezel lume is applied to the underside of the insert. It looks terrific, and it's one of the reasons why I upgraded from my old Vietnam case to a proper Omega replacement. Yes, it's a high price to pay for a lumed bezel... but just look at it!

If I can't find a Cal.565 for cheap (very likely, given current prices), I'd like to find out if an ETA can take its place! wheaton26: It's an Omega Seamaster 300 (166.0324). Pure franken made out of NOS parts, except for the movement, which is an early-60s Cal.552. 40mm diameter, wears closer to the wrist than a Speedmaster.

I was just about to start one--I swear! Omega calls it a Milanese, but to you and me it's a mesh:

It was a Timezone FS listing, though the buckles are readily available from Hanhart USA's website. Thing is, $20 for a signed buckle was a no-brainer for me. But $65 for a buckle... that's an entirely different proposition!

The ~$300 watches like this one have recessed dials, believe it or not. It's completely undetectable in the pictures of that listing, but a friend at RWI recently bought one and posted a closeup shot for a wrist-check. The indentation of the subdials was clear to see. I'll try to locate that picture. When you say reprinting gen dials, do you mean from the current Hanhart lineup or dials from the 1930s and 1940s? I would love to get a dial with the old, thin 'Hanhart' script! Better yet, I could really go for a dial with a proper snail tachymeter. The Poljot rep is ruined by the chunky numerals, and that date at 6.

Or you could move to a country with dirt-cheap labor costs--where "watch winder" is not a device, but a job title!

Thanks, ZK! And speaking of great Omegas... Wow! Checking out ofrei now!

Some really nice Subs at the top of the page... But it's Omega for me:

Beautiful watches and display, kent, and a very affecting inscription.

Check out ubiquitous's 6265, which also has a Big Red service dial in brand-new condition. I'm not sure how much he paid for it, though. With his luck, he probably found one in the forest... (Where HAS ubi gone? I hope he's not totally swamped with work.)

Oooh... SIGMA! Just tritium for me today:

Do you mean from the front or the back? If you're scanning scores of 70s chronographs that aren't explicitly labeled "Valjoux 7734", you want to zero in on the ones that are bicompax with a date at 6. Preferably, you want to see 15/30/45 printed on the right subdial. Preferably, the date will be in black, and resemble the gen font. If you can't make out either of these details, you're taking a very big chance! If you're looking at a picture of the movement, orient it so that the V-shaped chronograph bridge is pointing down. The minute recorder is on the right, partially obscured by the bridge. Count the number of teeth on one third of the gear. (This is easier than it sounds.) If you counted 15, you're good to go. And, yes, the chronograph will work. However, the minutes indicated will proceed in this sequence: 0,1.5,3,4.5,... EDIT: Well, there goes modelizer explaining things with pictures again!

Well... Since September, more than a few guys have converted their movements from 30- to 45-minutes, but I still have no answer to this question: What's the difference between chronograph runners 8000 and 8000/3? (Don't say, "/3!" or I'll put a curse on your offspring!) I suspect that if there is a difference, there might be a slight variance in height. All I can say is that my Tudor only has parts 8040 and 8120 installed. The chronograph runs, and it counts to 45, but it doesn't reset reliably. Whether that's due to to part 8000 or to other factors (e.g. I dropped the watch in October), I'm not sure. I have 8000/3 on back-order, so I may not receive it for another several months. If there is anyone out there with both chronograph runners (8000 and 8000/3), I would really appreciate a macro photo or some measurements.

I saw the listing, too, though I wasn't bidding. Great pickup! Now you need to move up to a Datocompax!

I hate to be the one to say it, but if you find a 30-minute 7734 movement and don't plan on using the chronograph too often... don't bother converting it! You will add a lot of cost and complication to what can already be a challenging build. As for similarities between the Poljot 3133 and the Valjoux 7734, please see this classic post. But as Sql points out, there have been Poljot/Tudors in the past (check Ray T's pieces), as well as Poljot/Daytonas.

I like Explorers.

Very, very impressive! The dial texture is a real improvement from your GMT's. I'm looking forward to similar projects in the near future!

Omega weekend continues:

700 Twinlock, if you want to be true to the original spec, but it won't be cheap!

Masters for the weeekend: (I should borrow valerian's to complete the set!)

Honestly, I've seen better-looking coronets on known aftermarket crowns. On yours, the tines don't seem to taper at all.

*69, that's a rather stunning shitty phone shot! Thanks, Zeleni and Noel! I ordered the parts in September, and only received them a few days ago. In the meantime, one package was lost, the reorder was delayed by months, and the Royal Mail still owes me. In other words, I'm not about to sell anytime soon!