lhooq

Coffee and Carrera:

Shame that he's regressing to his bad old self. At least you were able to get that Clapton albino from him. What a beauty! +1 on the Spinmaster recommendation, unless you have access to a skilled watchsmith or are one yourself. Expect to pay $500-700 for a modded and serviced A7750 in a pretty convincing DW Daytona. The next step up will realistically cost about $1500-2000, minimum. Unfortunately, Spin can often be hard to reach, and is often imagined to be a Howard Hughes-like recluse.

I've never seen a 19mm folded-link Rolex rep bracelet, unfortunately. wiesn089 compared solid rep bracelets a while back, and the Yuki 78350 looked good for the price.

Whether you spend $268 or $2680, there's always going to be something that bugs you. The silly thing is that the Daytona reps with SeaGull (aka Venus aka Lemania) movements don't even properly replicate the subdial spacing of a Valjoux 72. Unless you use ChiMan's clever-but-not-so-easy mod, the hour counter will be lower than on the gen.

It's my Cal.321 Speedmaster, after it was regulated by Zigmeister.

I'd love to see pictures of your 2998, if you have any at the ready. Here's a friend's with my "'57":

Sorry for the very late response to this thread! tomhorn: If I had more cash on hand at the time, I would have bought both of those dials. It's going to be very hard to find similar tritium service dials in that condition, and at that price, again. Assuming that Yuki's photographs are accurate (big assumption), the only decent-looking 1016 dial in the lineup is the Gilt Gloss with yellow lume, which looks similar to Yuki's older stock. The other two 1016 dials have terrible fonts, and numerals that are both poorly shaped and situated too far from the edge.

Are you saying that you plan to install a 702 on a 6239/6241? If so, then that's wrong. You won't see a 7mm crown between pump pushers.

A Datejust for me:

F, that last one is really superb. Well done!

Hey, Daddy! I want a diamond ring, bracelets, everything! Daddy... You ought to get the best for me! Merry Christmas, CJ and son!

Superbe!

While the tree's still up... Happy New Year!

Compressor Sunday

The Gemini 4 is superb, and my favorite special edition Speedy. Someday...

Thanks for the shot! I seem to be falling off the fence...

Thanks for the review, watchman. iPhone or not, those are great shots of a beautiful rep. I have a request: Could you take a wristshot from the side, so I can see how high the case sits on the wrist? As you might guess, I'm on the fence on this one, but very close to falling off!

Great timing for a bump! Today I was finally able to get the 617 endlinks modded to look more like a pair of vintage 506s. The center notches makes the watch much more convincing, overall. That said, I would still love to find genuine 6 or 506 endlinks. Send me a PM if you have any tips!

Sorry for the late response. Usually, I'm Johnny-on-the-spot to comment on all things 1016. I think it looks good, and I often recommend the Trusty 1016 to people asking for a good, out-of-the-box, vintage Explorer. I am puzzled by the dial, though, as that should be one of the Trusty's strengths. As sigsvoor said, this is a 5500 dial (and a pretty good 5500 dial, I might add), but it's wrong for the 1016. I would not recommend buying an NDT dial to replace it, but maybe you could contact Trusty about getting the correct SCOC dial for it? (I'm assuming that he really doesn't have any in stock, though.) Alternatively, you could get an MBW 1016 dial that would work well. I may be able to help you with that, especially if you're 'Up North'. Drop me a PM. I would not consider changing the crystal until I'm absolutely sure about the dimensions of the crystal/bezel on the rep. I am guessing that a Tropic 21 or 22 will not fit, but one member (If You See Kay) has had some success fitting a Tropic 19 onto his Trusty rep. It's a lot of work, but it will get you a taller and more correct-looking crystal profile. As for the hands, I would put them low on the priority list. If you really want a good replacement set, the hands for TC's Sub are probably the best. I think Akira was referring to lugholes that will accept the fatter 1016 bars, which are as wide as Submariner springbars. Drilling the holes to 1.3mm would be a good mod, especially if you're thinking of reshaping the lugs.

Thanks, Vandal! I wrote about it here.

Yuki's 24-7000s have worked well for me.

I'll go with a double dose of Speed on this fine Boxing Day: