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Everything posted by mastrmindalliance
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A2824 and 2836 keyless parts... interchangable?
mastrmindalliance replied to mastrmindalliance's topic in Movement Q&A
Thanks guys, Knowing what i know about these two culprits, I would have thought so too. But at least on mine, the stems aren't interchangable. Or rather, the A2824 stem won't work with the 2836. It won't engage at all. So what about exchanging all the parts except for clutch and and wind pinion? i hope you don't think i'm being lazy here... i'm asking for advice because i don't have the experience to know which exact part would be the problem. While this movement has taught me a lot, it's getting on my nerves now with the constant keyless breakdowns and I just want it fixed. -
Hi, i have an a2824 that the keyless keeps screwing up on it's own. I only have spare parts from 2836 , both an asian and an ETA. I know the stems are different but are the other keyless parts interchangable? I'd buy the spare parts but there are no good options. Ofrie is a nightmare if you're in Aus. Cousins price with shipping is nearly the cost of a whole new movement and Ebay - well, how to know if you're buying eta or clone? So, i'd like to fix it with parts on hand if possible. Thanks for any advice.
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Everyone knows the colour on the seconds hand of the UPO is off on both the pumpkin and the B/W. I didn't know just how off it was until I got this Franken with gen dial and hands. It dawned on me that I could put my trade skills in design to good use here, so I colour-matched the reddy/orange of the gen seconds hand with my pantone books and set about finding a mixture of colour to suit. I scoured every model supplies shop within 100kms of where I live – unfortunately online shopping (for the initial matching) is not an option here, because sites that do reference colour swatch books aren’t using the much superior pantone books. Initially expecting to have to make my own mix I eventually found a paint that is quite spot on for this use off the shelf. Stoked!. It's ["Revell (No 25) Enamel Paint 32125 Luminous Orange Matte". The paint must be matt as per the gen. How to do it? 1. Decase, remove hands • if you have a fine enough hand and eye to paint this in situ, you won't need this tute. 2. Prep • Flatten a piece of Rodico (better option would be balsa/craft wood here). • make a tiny divot for the hand post. • Place the hand firmly on the rodico – you want it to not move, but you want the paintable part resting off the surface of whatever you use – to avoid paint dags. • Get out your cellotape – not the cheapo dollar shop sticky tape, spend a few extra cents here. • Get a strip of tape and apply typing paper to the sticky side. You want to cover as much of the tape as you can, leaving only a tiny sticky edge (even the pic below was too much really). The idea here is you want the tape to stick, so you get a nice straight edge, but you want as little sticky applied to hand as possible so you don't damage it on removal - these hands are flimsy. Note: You don't need the tiny pube as below, but it helps. • Apply your paper/tape to the hand like this a fraction below the apex of lume area, just like gen. try to get it as straight as possible: • Very important: you must prepare the surface to paint. I painted houses while I worked my way through uni, don’t underestimate this step or you’ll be doing it twice. Ideally you’d use a light coloured primer for a first coat, then dry, the colour coat next. Instead I used Isopropyl and a lint free cloth just to remove any surface oils, dust or etc. • Wet a nice corner of your cloth with the alcohol • Gently wipe over the hand in one direction away from the post. Going sideways or towards to post will damage your hand. Remember – be careful. 3. Painting. • use a fine, top quality, non-synthetic brush. Synthetic brushes leave brush strokes. Shake the paint, don’t use the paint from the underside of the lid (there be unmixed paint), use it from the paint tin itself. • note that the painted surface is not resting on the Rodico. If you were using balsa wood, you’d want to make another divot under the painted surface • apply the paint ‘dry’, it means you don’t want to load the brush heavily with paint. We are going to apply two thin coats, not one thick one • long smooth strokes • Use single strokes for the entire length of painted surface – don’t 'play' with the paint or the finish will be bad – long singles strokes only. • allow 24 hours to dry between coats – this paint is enamel. • put on second coat for a nice full finish. • allow to dry, inspect your work: Pretty good match eh? In sunlight: In the dark: Hope it helps someone. If you do the mod, please post a pic here?
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Hi, this isn't meant to be any kind of indepth thing. I bought this PP24 for my sister in law over a year ago (from Josh). Cheap and has no seconds hand. She was wearing it recently when she was here, so i took some pics. I've never really given thought to my opinion of it as a replication, but as a well bulit watch it's excellent. very sturdy, even the bling, and a really well built bracelet. Other than that, i'll just post the pictures. First the rep then the gen: rep: (sorry for the fluff) Now the gen: You can make up your own mind as to the quality of the replication, but as mentioned, it's one of the most sturdy built reps I've ever bought. The kind of watch that if you dropped it wouldn't skip a beat. Bracelet feel is one of the best i've ever felt.
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This looks awfully familiar to me but I can't place it - the place not the watch. Where is it?
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Updated Sept 20th 2012 Redwatch's Current Watch Collection
mastrmindalliance replied to redwatch's topic in My Collection
Nice collection mate. And the part about your grandad gave me goosebumps. -
At least sourcing a gen movement won't be an issue
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Swing by the local leather-maker or leather supplies shop and see if you can't pick up an original or one off. If he's a 30-40 friend then even better if it's got some hideously ornate pattern on it for a gag. I'll always take an Oroton thanks
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Best place to get a band w/deployment clasp
mastrmindalliance replied to joshmv's topic in The Breitling Area
What lugwidth are you after? -
I posted this elewhere as well, but isn't the catch that exchanging the money is essentially moot and the transaction carries on as per a regular trade? Perhaps i'm missing something but the trade value would be the same for both parties - you pay 200 - you recieve 200. you each send a watch. Even Stevens. The only bonus is that you now have their PP addy, the added disadvantage is that PP offers another avenue for a scammer to rob you of your money (remove received funds while goods in transit, dispute the paid funds), and your watch. Not trying to be neg, just trying undestand this properly. What am I missing?
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This should be posted in the "looking Silly" section instead.
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that looks cool. Let me know if she gets sick of it.
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Yeah, quite hard to judge colour accuracy from dealer pics. Am I trippin or do these look like they're smaller than normal?
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Oh and dont forget kiwi flick "Once Were Warriors"
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I liked layer-cake and loved Chopper. Will check out Tell No One cos it sounds like you have good taste. Some more Aussie reccomendations for you in similar vein to Chopper. Gettin Square, Two hands and the best... Romper Stomper.
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My missus wont wear reps so have been looking into to building her a homage. A 42mm rad case as she has twig wrists. This one would be awesome to de-badge if it was smaller:
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I have one of these too even went with the polished midlinks as per i saw on a very old thread or post around here. One thing i like more on this this version is how shiny that insert is in the first pic (hey, it's fantasy anyway right).
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whats the thing with the forum dollars? What did i miss?
mastrmindalliance replied to whoever's topic in General Discussion
But not for Platinum? -
whats the thing with the forum dollars? What did i miss?
mastrmindalliance replied to whoever's topic in General Discussion
Thanks for the heads up. For me its says: "Sorry, members of your group(s) are not permitted to use this application." 0_o -
Wow! What a cool vid. Cheers.