txcollector

If you are under 2 years, you should be OK.

the only danger is for them to say "oh you need full service, refinishing for the case, etc." and send you a $600 bill.

The Omega service center took care of it under warranty but I had to pay shipping/insurance to get there, which I agree I should not have to worry about. As to "self-waterproofing", yes I'm trained to do that but no by Omega.

you would think so but my gen Omega Planet Ocean (less than 1 yr old) got all fogged up after a 100ft cold water dive. That never happened with the reps I water proof myself

The screws/bezel are no good on those. And there was an effort to get custom ones made that did not improve them a lot. Your best bet is with the 15300, even with the display caseback.

I must be blind because with mine everything is perfect, hand, dial, case, screws etc. The movement is of course a problem but nothing that can be done. I don't understand the comments on strange hands shape. Mine is the same as the gen.

Getting ready for my diving trip

ultimate - when the dealer wants to say "it looks pretty close to me, buy the damn thing"

yes but it wasn't easy. Centering all the numbers is not an easy feat.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2010

just cancel the CC order and use one of the money orders options. I'd never consider sending any documentation to any dealer.

I have the gen. That dial looks strange. Too dark/yellow, fonts too thin. That's very typical of PWC's low cost watches.

Cartier and Automatic fonts are too thin.

dial looks way too yellow. Crown is pretty bad.

specially on such an important day

I hate when this kind of stuff happens. The state of the 26 is really strange. The dial should not go over the rehaut like that. No wonder the watch is not running since the hands are probably being held by the crystal. On the PP if this guy has proof of delivery you are out of luck. Item condition only works with eBay sales, since there's an ad to describe how the item should be. Since this was a private sale there's no way for PP to know if the 26 wasn't suppose to look like that (and of course the issue with being a replica ...). This guy seems to know this and really doesn't care. The best way to handle is to put a review out and leave him bad feedback.

The AP band straps are very good as well. I have both the black hornback and the black alligator. Both work fine with the AP band and rep link adapters. What about the caseback? Any modifications? I'm considering shaving mine because it's a big tell.

PAM 177 AP ROO 15300 Box Pic. The 15300 is the one in the top row middle.

0.5 ms is fine. For good movements 0.6ms would be considered the maximum accepted but you are talking about fractions of seconds a day on the balance wheel adjustment. The dealer most probably is showing you the performance with watch dial up. You probably will get more variation with movement of your arm and temperature than this beat error that the timing machine is showing

I had to google chartreuse to figure out if it was a color or a dessert

Like Wolf said it should be simple but being this your first attempt I'd be concern to try that with an OEM crown. if I were you I'd get a cheap PAM and practice with that one. As for the 177, I'd suggest you get one of the new 177L. It's very good quality overall.

from what I've heard those domed crystals are quite complex to be done with sapphire. You need an external and internal convex specification that have to align perfectly. Since sapphire is harder that process becomes quite expensive. I'm not aware of anybody that would supply a 253 sapphire crystal.

so what if it's not sapphire? In person it's hard to tell the difference with the gen. People get too concerned about mineral vs sapphire but few people can actually SEE the difference. I'd rather have a very clear mineral crystal vs a cloudy sapphire. I assume your looking for a crystal that will visually be closer to the gen. The ultimate does that.