ubiquitous

There is a very large difference in fonts between modern and vintage Rolex. Vintage has a very unique shape to the fonts- Very much so inspired by the eras in which they were used. Flat top 3's, open 6's; the actual fonts themselves are not perfect, and each number carries a bit of variance: Modern fonts are more rounded, and look much more uniform across all the dates. This shouldn't be any big surprise; technology allows for perfection and tighter tolerances, which directly translates to crisper, smoother, straighter fonts. Sorry... I don't have any pics of a modern datewheel on it's own. As for which datewheel to use- I use TWG's on the Asian 21j, which fits perfect on the ETA...

Looks great Ziggy!

Yessir. If you use something like a needle or pin to pres the button in, then the button can recess past it's set hole, and will have to be re-set for the stem to click back into the keyless works. There have been a few recent topics on this subject, so if that should occur, there are some excellent photo tutorials on how to fix this, but the best way to go about it it is to avoid it altogether.

How bad is the scratch? For most scratches, you can spray a coat or two of clear varnish over the surface; this will conceal hairline and even moderate scratches. Here is my 1665 dial- Note the scratch above the date window: Here is the same dial- 2 coats of matte varnish on it. Scratch is concealed- Only slightly visible out of the case. Once installed, the scratch completely disappears under the crystal: So, before you write that dial off, might as well give it a try. If the scratch is more of a gouge (and is exposing base metal underneath), you can try filling in the scratch with a black sharpie, and then spraying the matte- The varnish will probably even things out on the color, though if you have something you can test this on prior, that would be the best way to go... Hope this helps. R

DW 6263 with Swiss V23 transplanted... Tonight, I'll be wearing my new Nautilus...

Indeed. Might as well take the opportunity to swap to the 2846; this one beats at 21600bph, which is closer to the genuine 1570's 19600 anyways. This corrects the sweep of the seconds hand, as one of the visible characteristics of the slow beat vintage movements is the slow, staggering seconds hand...

A few bits of advice: 1) Always make sure to pull the crown out to the time setting position prior to releasing the stem. This will ensure that the clutch does not fall out of place, and you should also set the hands to 12:00 anyways in case you are removing hands; this will provide a baseline for where to set the hands so that the date transition stays correct. 2) Never use anything smaller than a 1.2mm screwdriver to press the release button. Hope this helps.

Probably not; 250 has the Asian 7750, while the datewheels are for the Swiss 7753. Two completely different animals.

The solid 18k RG Santos? Agree... That was lovely!

It was a great time indeed The watches were fantastic; but the company even better! If you find your way back to Denver, Michael, please let us know! Another GTG is definitely in order!

I must say... I can't take my eyes off of this one. A HUGE thanks to Omni... A very generous soul, a gentleman, and a one of a kind member to our forums

Some of you will probably have recalled seeing my thread from last week: PP Nautilus... Lovely or Ugly? Well, much to my surprise and delight, a very generous member decided to gift me his TW Best PP Nautilus 3800/1A I received this beauty today, and I must say... It is lovely. The overall finish of this watch is quite exquisite- Especially for a rep. To my recollection, it's quite accurate to the gen I got to examine- Perhaps not as finely finished, but we're talking quite the large difference in pricing accordingly. But, what really makes this watch lovely to me is the very kind and generous gesture made by one particular individual. This piece has a permanent place in my collection, and I love it On to the pics... Side by side with another Genta design... Wrist shots... Mahalo!!

Excellent work! It looks great!

I'd like to see the back... That will tell all...

P.S. Never use anything smaller than a 1.2mm screwdriver tip to engage that button

J- In order to fix, you have to take the datewheel off, and remove the cover plate to the keyless works. Once the keyless works is accessed, you can reset the button...

It's a beauty!!

If we could have a DD module for a 2892 (making it a 2894), the possibilities are endless... TAG Monaco included...

I think I recall him mentioning glue from a hot glue gun?

Genuine. No doubt This is the 'flat' 39 Profile and height says it all. The icing on the cake is the bevel around the edge. Good stuff. If you got this one for around $100, I'd say that's an excellent find.

I've had a few of the genuine LV inserts- But never loose. Still... They would be very similar to the black 16610's, so it's still possible to identify the difference, as the LV is simply a different color. Physical attributes, such as setting size for the pearl, insert size, etc. should all still be the same.

To darken Ti- You can simply submerge the watch is a small bowl/Tupperare/mug/Big Gulp cup of water and Oxiclean. Oxygen tends to darken up Ti, so if you're after that look, that is one way to achieve it

Why, yes I am! Gotta give it some wrist time every now and then!

Think they'd spot this one if I wore it through customs?

Indeed. That looks to be VERY thick on the underside. Far thicker than any genuine 16610 insert I've ever seen. Also... The diameter of the pearl setting from the back looks too small- The gen's pearl setting is larger in diameter. The pearl also looks incorrect from the front, still- Though it's hard to really see it for what it is because of the lighting.