ubiquitous

Ouch! Not sure who you can try for repairs/overhauls these days- Ziggy's not touching them anymore, spare parts are nearly impossible to source- Even if you get a movement from DW to replace the broken with, there's no guarantee as to what condition that one will be in. My recommendation- Us DW owners need to put our heads together and come up with some sort of collective solution to these movements- A replacement movement that won't break the bank, easy to source with replacement parts available.

Over the past 9 months, I've seen 1570's and 1575's selling for around $800 to $900 US- So, I would say if the price is in that ball park, it's a good buy! And, I should also add- Chris is a phenominal source for rare vintage RLX parts! He has some incredibly good stuff at extremely reasonable prices. For anyone looking for parts to complete a project, check with Chris to see what he has!

A very smart product option and offering in my opinion. There are a number of members who are interested in having their watch(es) modified; by having an intitial servicing/overhaul as well as mods performed at the time of purchase of the watch, the buyer is then in the position to start enjoying their new time piece immediately upon receipt (rather than having to go through the proces of receiving the watch, send it it out for mods and work, etc)... For those who don't care for mod work... Well, that angle is covered as well Good stuff indeed!!

Not a hybrid- That is a rep of the Omega Seamaster 2254.50.00. Looks like the He Valve is also too low, and the opening for the crown in the CG's needs to be more pronounced. A pic of the genuine (from Blowers Jewelers):

Unfortunately, the one on eBay isn't the legendary Faldo rep. Rather, it's a rep of the standard 14790ST.0.0789ST.07; similar style dial as the steel/platinum 15190SP.0.0789ST.01 (but missing the clous de Paris motif in the center), and also has the solid back (which is okay, as it would hide the ETA). Also, note the seconds hand.... My old and very much missed AP Royal Oak Faldo rep. I regret the day I parted with it now... (thought I had a pic of the caseback with display, but I cannot find it to post...)

Hmmmm... I don't have any real side shots... Would this work?

Today: Saturday: Sunday:

Errrrr... Typically, the screw pins that secure that strap at the lugs are a single, long pin that threads into the lug/case. But, what you're explaining sounds more like there are two screw heads; one at each side?

For the 6263/5 exotics, I believe those came with the folded or heavy links, as their issuing was more related to time of production vs. model or dial type. As the 6263/5's were issued starting in the 70's, I don't think that there were any rivetted 7205's fitted to these watches from the factory as it was just past it's time. 6240's and 6262's (production from 1960 - 1970), however are a different story. These pieces were produced during a transitional period, not only for bracelets, but also for dials and pusher/crown types as well (now signed Oyster).

Yes, that is correct. The 7835 folded link (which, to my knowledge has not been reproduced or replicated) also needs to be expanded to add or remove links. Because of the way the links are folded they have to be unrolled- A rather difficult task in it's own right, so it's better to let a competent watchmaker handle the job. What are you putting this bracelet on? A DW? If so, the s/n is probably around 2952---, which dates it to around 1970/1971. In this case, a folded link would be correct, but it wouldn't be unheard of to see a 78350 on the watch as a replacement bracelet... However, if you are after a bracelet that can be easily adjusted, a 78350 heavy link is probably your best bet.

2nd that. I believe my local opthamologist (independent practice) will AR coat a crystal for the right price...

No luck finding a Faldo yet, eh Robbie? I'm still looking too....

ubi says that he would like to wish shady a happy 18th!! ubi wants to know what kind of bling shady will be sporting on his wrist for this particular day :lol

Anyone know when Kevin's next trip to Starbucks might be? I want to make sure I'm there and that I have 3x mocchiatos and 1x 7 layer bar ready and waiting so that I can make a trade for that solid 18k 1680!!

REP!! haha, made ya look!

If we're talking a GENUINE 7205 bracelet, then there are no screw slots in the rivet heads; the links, if I recall correctly, have to be expanded to remove/add. Best bet would be to take it to a watchmaker to have the bracelet sized.

The last links of the bracelet should have slotted rivet heads on them for removal with a small 1.5mm screwdriver: Though, I am assuming we are discussing a replica bracelet, yes?

T'is a gargantuan cranium! It's like an orange on a toothpick! Aye, he'll be cryin himself to sleep tanight on his huge pillah! Seriously... Very cool bobble! I see he has very nice taste in time pieces (and compasses) as well!

The 6263 was never fitted with the 7205, as it was far beyond production of when the rivet bracelets were used. The more likely candidates for the rivets were the 6238, 6239 and 6241, as those were produced during the era when such bracelets were issued. The rivet bracelets were fitted to watches until the early - mid 60's; they were superceded by the folded link Oysters until the very early 70's and were then replaced by the heavy link Oysters that are still in use to current day production. As for sizing- Look very closely at the rivet heads on the very last links closest to the clasp. You should see the screwdriver slot for the pins that will allow you to size the bracelet.

Oli- Let me see what I can dig up

Looks great Tribal!! An excellent job on the modifications

Joshua- Absolutely! It's almost inevitable...

As dadog mentioned... All the elements of the equation are there. We know hobnail dials can be made... Markers can probably be borrowed from the RLX LV Sub's maxi dial; hands, etc. are all available...

In this case, it's not an overlay, but rather the actual datewheel that you are seeing. So, it either a problem with the way the dates were printed, or the dial is off center.