jmb

Auto pretty much nailed it. I would like to see the Cartel boys just sell cases but I can't even get Josh to cut loose a case-back - and I even asked real nice! If somebody could get a bunch of cases and had access to a TIG or laser welder to add a bit of material to CGs, and then a smidgen of CNC work...

Maybe this should go in the Omega section?

No reps that I know of. There was also an automatic version. I machined a case on a manual lathe and mill, just for grins, but it was pretty labor intensive. I grafted on an APRO bracelet made it into a fantasy Tudor...

A bit more gnarly than I usually go for but looks good!

Nah, he lets Griz come in and use his computer for chatting when he's out and about...

Interesting on your HeV. The only DSSD I've owned was a Eurotimes V5, from about the same time period as your black one, and the HeV hole was drilled all the way through. Too bad the valve operated the opposite of how it should have and those needed to be epoxied shut.

I'm not sure about the newer reps but when the DSSD first came out a lot (maybe most) of reps had an HeV built backwards and needed to be epoxied. If you can depress the center of your HeV from the outside then you should probably epoxy it, if not it's probably OK. The easiest thing would be to pop the back and look...

Since this case is ruined, unless welded and re-drilled, see if you can get it dirt cheap and install fixed bars for a Milsub project...

woof?!! You back in town?

Yeah, it really shocked me when it fit. The Tudor rep case-back, I guess being rather flat, looked a lot bigger than the DSSD.

Ya ol' fart! Oh, wait, I wish I was only 56 you whippersnapper... How long's it been since anybody saw/heard that term?

I finally needed to change the battery in my extremely incorrect rep Tudor Heritage Chronograph and found the case-back tight to the point where my sticky-ball couldn't do the job. I try not to use the adjustable three-prong openers on this kinds of case-back as I will often slip and scratch it. Just for grins I grabbed the opener die for a DSSD and, to my astonishment, it fit like a glove! I spun off the back and found, not surprisingly, I did not have to correct battery. A little bit of further trivia is the rep uses a Miyota OS21 movement and an SR927W battery. Although this is a fairly chunky and heavy watch it's one of my preferred beaters when I'm motorcycle riding. So, if you have one of these, and need to remove a tight case-back, grab a DSSD opener and it's smooth sailing. I bought just the single die from Watchbitz years ago right after the DSSD reps started coming out.

Nice to see you back!

Damn, mine's a fake! I just checked it and it says Switzerladn...

+1

Yeah, the minute hand is a tad long but most folks don't notice...

The WSO990 endlinks are also made for 2mm springbars.

Yeah, curious as to whether it will have the necessary inertia to wind it. Maybe that's why it's so quiet?

Great job on it!

You're right, I'm just trying to keep my serial number "trivia" straight so I can do better at engraving...

Bart. Cool! I've done that on a few builds and have wondered why more folks don't do it.

I did some web crawling and this S/N range is in that which was dedicated to replacement cases. I love it when I can learn new stuffs... Here's a quote from a Mod at TRF: All replacement cases known have started with 4,4xxxxx until exhaustion; then they started with 4,7xxxxx. This also confuses me as this example is a 4,3xxxxx S/N.

I suppose a service replacement case would be a possibility, hadn't considered that.

From the research I've done trying to get my S/N engraving as close as I can that serial is from 1975 and the case should be marked "REGISTERED DESIGN." Cases marked with "ORIG ROLEX DESIGN" started around 1982 unless my research is totally wrong...

PM me...