chubbchubb

Careful. There is a BIG difference between putting some silicon grease on an o-ring and oiling a movement. The later is for professionals only... and that's a fact. Don't fool yourself into thinking you can just open a watch, put a little oil here and there and the thing will work. Oiling requires taking the movement apart, cleaning it, putting tiny bits of various oils (!) on to several tiny parts of the movement and reassembling the movement. Anything else will do more harm than good.

Whenever someone new to the forum posts information which is potentially affecting the reputation of a member or a dealer, his info should be read very carefully. There are many who join just to start a quick and uninformed "revenge" thread. On the other hand - low posts does not necessarily mean that you have to be a noob and not know what your talking about. In the end, the information presented has to be judged - not the post count. Also, whenever a dealer is questioned, there will be members coming to the rescue. People who had good experience with that particular dealer, who love his product and who want to share this opinon with the world. Take the "White Lies" thread. There, Pugwash, a very respected member with more posts than anyone else on this forum was flamed by several members because he raised his voice against a dealer (duo). If a dealer claims that the car he's selling has a V12 engine and that's why it's more expensive than his competitor's V6 and it turns out it does not, anyone would feel scammed. I feel that if I use a certain feature of my merchandise for advertising and for justifying a certain price, I have to make sure that this feature's for real. Especially, if it is a feature as "mythical" as the solid gold issue in the rep world. The information presented seems to suggest that this was not the case...

Yep, probably the same movement... aerospace, all functions via crown.

Thanks for making the effort . I'd be in for two flat 3's. I'd also be interested in the 3135.

how very true...

I use Xat Image Optimizer (hxxp://www.xat.com/io/index.html) to resize images for web projects. You see both original and compressed picture side by side as you increase compression (and decrease size). For web-resizing it is easier than Irfanview (which is without doubt a must-have free tool on any win-pc).

The bigger the crowd, the more chance to bump into a moron. Just compare the RWG member count in 06 and today. It's just like in real life. But regardless of that, I still feel that RWG is a great place to be...

I used a caliper similar to this This is what I measured I did not actually measure the pitch of the tubes thread, assuming that they are somewhat standardized. If you look at the specs on the Cousins site, it seems that this assumption is right as there is no mentioning of any variations in pitch. The minor difference in the thread diameter is due to the old tube being striped. I also measured the inside diameter of the crown. Cousins also has the date and daywheels in various languages and colors. My CC does have the date problem but I did not order these yet as I was too eager to finally get the watch back in a wearable state. Replacing the datewheels on a 7750 Chrono is more time consuming than the tube switch. AFAIK you will have to look for date overlays for Rlx in the rep world. ETA wheels are not difficult to get as there are rep eta copy movements and the gen movements and parts are (still) sold openly. The gen rolexes come with rolex movements that are different from the eta clones used in the rlx reps. Therefore, you can't just swap the datewheels. A couple of members had overlay projects in the past, mostly for vintage rolex (drsd, 1680...). As for new Submariners, the datewheels on the recent quality reps are actually pretty accurate.

In May 08, I bought an Oris Carlos Coste. It quickly became one of my favorite watches and my daily beater. It is a well made rep and there is a great review on it by Seadweller4000. Unfortunately, there are two nasty problems that many owners of the CC had to face: 1. Defective (scratched) daywheels 2. Striped (POS) tubes The striped tubes are due to the low quality material used for the tube and the fact that the thread of the tube is too short. The crown can do less than one full turn until it is locked. Even though I used extreme caution when screwing/unscrewing the Crown, after about six weeks, the tube went belly-up. I contacted the dealer from whom I had bought the watch and asked if he could source replacement parts. He said yes and the Carlos Coste went into the watchbox. Some six months later, I still had no replacement parts and so I decided to source them myself. I disassembled the watch, removed the tube and measured it with a digital caliper. Then I went to the Cousins site (hxxp://www.cousinsuk.com) and looked for a matching tube and I found one which fits perfectly. It works with both the rep crown and the OEM crown. Like the rep tube, it is pushed into the case and secured with a tiny bit of glue. I used UHU plus Endfest300, a 2-component adhesive on epoxy resin base. The thread of the Cousins tube is a bit longer. I ended up re-using my rep crown as it was ok.

The Zigmeister, as always, your work is amazing. I just wish I wasn't so afraid to send my rep watches across country borders....

Let me just add to bwhitesox's very good howto: For a T48 on a 6497 the new stem needs to be shortened to approximately 13,2mm, minor variations (behind the comma) might be due to tiny differences among cases and also the number of o-rings you use in your crown. Don't forget to remove these o-rings from your old crown, silicon grease them and apply them (in the same order) to your T-crown. Other than previous replacements crowns (ie Palp), the T-Crown does not require you to sand down the tip of the CG lever - you can leave it as it is. You can cut the stem with a fine wire cutter. Look at the tip of the stem's thread with a loupe and sand the tip if needed. To remove an old stem from the rep-crown can sometimes be tricky. Applying a little heat to the crown (with a soldering iron) sometimes helps loosening the thread locker or glue so you can unscrew the crown. Don't rely on this to work in every instance. You need a little force to unscrew and sometimes.... the old stem will rather break. Have a new stem ready (just in case). Also, as you wont have a comparison ensemble to measure the length (stem outside the crown) - measure before you unscrew.

The 028 is amazing. I really like the way the hobnail dial stands out under the AR.

Yep... buy a decent caseopener like the Bergeon. Without proper tools, working on watches (much like anything else) can quickly turn into a nightmare.

I second that...

Never. The amount of knowledge about watches in the wild is widely overestimated. None of my many gen-wearing friends could tell a quality rep from a gen. Having said that, if you are a teenager or a bum wearing a ROO, people might start thinking that somethings fishy just as they would if your were driving a Porsche....

Welcome on board.

I got my T48's and they are perfectly crafted, beautiful pieces. A no-brainer for any serious PAM fan. The T60's irrespective of their teeth-count - are waaaaaaay better than any regular rep crown, they fit without difficult case-or CG work and at this price, they should be a natural for anyone who has to watch his budget and is looking for a cheap but visible upgrade. We should not forget that it took the brains and research of the combined PAM experts on this forum to even point out the fact that the 60ties had a few extra teeth as compared to the gen. Lastly, if a super paneristi expert is close enough to your rep PAM to count the teeth on your crown - the crown will certainly be the last of your problems! Thank you T for your fantastic contribution to this forum... I hope that in the end, the deal somehow works out for you. I will surely buy a few more of these beauties.

@Kruz... thanks for the link. Good reading....

Ooops, sorry to hear this. In Stargate Atlantis he is such a skilled fighter.... must have been distracted ;-) Seriously...it's a wild world out there...

Just as Clint said - you will need a Cortebert 616 or 618 (or an Angelus 240 ;- for which you will also need custom hands, dial and spacer ring) movement which have a diameter of roughly 36,4mm.

As Hyster said, it facilitates fine regulation of the movement.

Palp has pretty much retired from the forum... hasn't been around for ages.

somewhere at the end of that article was a link to another one, which included a very interesting bit of information: The iPhone now accounts for 39% of Apple's total business....

First of all, be prepared to ruin any watch you put your hands on. Like they say on WWF ..."the stuff we do, takes years to perfect..."