freddy333

Pull the crown all the way out to the time-setting position & leave it there until you reinstall. That will reduce (but not eliminate) the likelihood of your disengaging the keyless works when pressing the release & r&r'ing the stem.

Yes, you need to remove the movement & reassemble the pusher. There are 3 different styles of pushers used in these watches, but this break-down of the basic components should give you an idea of what you are dealing with The housing (in red box) screws into the pusher hole in your case. Then, you fit the spring, metal washer & 2 rubber gaskets (in that order) onto the screw piece at the left. That assembly fits through the housing piece & the cap in the lower right corner then screws onto the screw piece. There is also a pusher that has the end cap (the part that came off of your watch) secured by a circlip inside the case. If you have that style of pusher, the circlip is likely floating, loosely, around inside your case. If it got lodged inside the movement, you may need to have the movement overhauled. In any case, the cap came loose, leaving the inner spring exposed. Hopefully, you still have the metal washer & 2 rubber gaskets, which provide the seal. If not, you can source them through most watch parts sellers, a local watchsmith & some eyeglass stores.

All ETA-style 77xx chronos should be similar. Do you have that button on yours?

No, that was the Phase I 2846-powered GMT (& the 24-hour hand was constructed from 3 different hands). You may remember that the Phase I watch was based on a Silex Sub & 1 of Josh's 1675s. So I took the small arrow tip from MY's GMT hand (made to fit a Rolex 103xgmt), soldered that to the wand from Josh's 1675 & soldered those 2 pieces to the inner ring from another hand. I had a pic of the backside of the hand where you could sort of see the 2 solder joints between the 3 separate parts, but my computer crashed a couple of years ago & I lost that pic. Excepting the insert (which looks gen to me), this watch is gen. I just located 1 of the pics from my construction thread. Actually, the GMT hand consisted of 3 solder joints (4 separate parts). I forgot that I had broken the wand & had to solder that back together. The arrows indicate each of the solder joints Looking at it now, I am amazed it came out so well. If I did not know its history, from a normal viewing distance, I would never know it is a franken-hand.

My 1036gmt-powered '42 has a 1675 seconds hand (I think the other hands may be interchangable as well, but not 100% positive)

Looks outstanding, but the dial paint looks fine. Why in the world would you modify/relume a gen dial (which seriously mars its value & may cause viewers to question what should be unquestionable)? I hope the lume does not glow too much .

Some may consider the winding rotor to be a weight, but, otherwise, there are generally no weights added to movements. I would second Ubi's comments & add that, with very few exceptions, a thorough service is pretty universally required for any movement you purchase from an unknown (to you) source.

Also, commonly available on ebay.

They do that to keep the overall weight down. Especially, when playing golf, customers would complain that their watch was too heavy & it affected their swing (or flew off their wrist). I overheard a relative (who used to work for Rolex) explaining this to a customer many years ago.

I have no idea yet what I will put on when I get up in the morning, but it is just past midnight, so it is officially Friday & I am still wearing my beater (I took the pic Thursday afternoon, which is why the date still says 23)

Because their subdial arrangement differs from the Valjoux 72-based series, the 6 register is usually frozen. However, they sound, feel & operate (manual-wind) more like the 72 than the 7750.

The genuine 6263 (and all 62xx series Daytonas) is a hand-wind watch. The 7750 is an automatic movement, but a watchmaker can disable the auto-wind function for you. I do not know what type of manual-wind movement is offered by the website you visited, so I cannot tell you if it is better than the 7750. However, many reps come with Seagull hand-wind movements, which are very good quality (if it is properly serviced by a professional watchmaker).

I have average (7") wrists & anything more than 40mm looks like a heart monitor or satellite tracking device on my wrist. In fact, I often find myself tugging, self-consciously, at my cuffs whenever I wear my modern Daytonas due to their sprawl.

The working class hero (ie, the other Sir Patek) returned to mechanicals back when the rest of the world was still getting into quartz/digital. Lennon was always the leader/ahead of the style pack, even in horology And (like his bandmate's watch) 100% gen

Yes, definitely gen pushers. The bezel on the low profile rep cases is also flatter than yours. Not quite as flat as the gen (about half way between the 2 in your pics), but close enough so that it is much less easily identified from an arm's length away. The casebacks on all of these reps is, for me, the biggest tell. Because the rep case is designed for a 7750, which is thicker than the Rolex caliber, the caseback is more beveled, which makes the watch sit higher on your wrist. That is how I usually gauge these reps from their gen counterparts.

I use them sometimes (they fit other Rolex calibers, too), but, generally, I like having my work locked in place with access to boths sides

Will it have a working He valve? What are the details on your 5514?

Thanks. I just pulled it apart to update some nagging issues with the case (reshaping the CGs, replacing the beveled Tropic 19 with a domed 1 & reseating the valve) & decided I might as well overhaul the movement while I had it out

Probably gens. Between the 2, I would be more confident about the Sub than the DJ. With a DJ, especially with diamonds, the 2 most important details for authentication are the placement/appearance of the date & appearance (sparkle/shimmer) of the jewels, neither of which can be seen properly in this pic.

You are half right. It is a rep, but the 'too long' pushers (& some of the hands) are gens. I like to install pushers (& crowns) a bit proud of the case (1mm or so higher than the factory installed them), which is the way Rolex service centers often place them.

Here is my gen (non-chronometer rated) A.260 for comparison