freddy333

The diameters are the same, but the heights of the 2 movements are different - 1570 - 5.75mm 3035 - 6.35mm You might be able to do it, but I doubt it would be a simple swap (you may need to mod the case a bit). Actually, it just occurred to me that your 1601 has a 1575 (not a 1570), which has a height of 6.30mm, so it may be an even swap. I have never done this, so I cannot guarantee you will not run into stem alignment issues or problems fitting the movement into the case.

I cannot answer your questions, but I bet a good travel agent can (or can put you in touch with someone who can). And congratulations.

A macro of the stamping would be helpful, but yours looks aftermarket. I have more experience with 7835s, so take this with a grain of salt, but I have only ever seen 78350s with flat-top 3s.

For a current model, I would head to your local Rolex dealer. That way, you can try the watch on & will not have to question your watch's authenticity. Later, if there is a problem, you have a real person in a real place to go back to. For a used/vintage model, since you do not have a good deal of knowledge/experience, I would stick to VRF or TZ (but check the buyer's references on VRF before you buy). You can always post some good, clear pics of a watch you are interested in either here or there to get input from more knowledgeable members.

Ditto.

The 1st thing you should do is head to your local Rolex dealer & try on some watches. Decide which model, style or type of watch you like & go from there. No one here can tell you what you will like.

I have been using the same file for years (without any problems), but, just to be safe, a screw extractor is probably a good investment.

Simple, but you will need a small round or triangular hobby file Insert & wedge the file inside the tube & unscrew. I would replace with a new Swiss-made aftermarket or gen tube (you can buy gens on ebay or tz, or Swiss-made aftermarkets from Ofrei, Cousinsuk & most watch parts houses).

Hard to assign a worth to these things since their value is whatever the buyer is willing to pay. I recall that (all but the very earliest) MBW cases have an etched (as opposed to a working) Hev & their main claim to fame is the ability to accept gen crystals, crowns/tubes & movements (with some modding). I can tell you that I have given away (free) or thrown out those bracelets by the handful (they are rubbish - inaccurate & poorly made).

(1 59)

Ziggy was unable to get mine (from jewelryandwatch) to fit on my V72. I suspect the bridge will need to be modded a bit to make it fit correctly & at some point, I will try again myself. Except for the finish (which is not bad, just not perfect), Phong's bridge looks like the real thing. If only it fit. As much as I hate to say it since I assisted DW in designing his, Phong's chrono bridges are probably the best (looking) I have seen (but his pricing is ridiculous ).

You should always watermark your pics (placing the watermark over the main object also makes it difficult to remove). That will not stop their unauthorized use, but at least it makes it more difficult.

Try ebay, here or here. You might also contact some of the sellers listed on RWG to see if they can source specific parts for you (most will not, but some may).

34mm

Keep in mind that, over time, CGs get polished (&, thus, changed in shape & reduced in size). Therefore, the way they look in any given picture is greatly dependent on how many times the watch case was polished, what it was polished with & the ability/intent on the watchmaker/owner doing the polishing. So there is really no way to provide a guide or directive on how to shape CGs. You choose your model & do your best to copy it. This is why I always tell people, who are looking to modify their rep/franken, that before you put file to metal, research the specific gen or gen models you are interested in so you know what they look like, how they operate & how they should appear in pictures. Then, once you are familiar with the real thing, you are better able to move ahead (in the right direction).

Can you post a good, clear pic of the gen model you are interested in?

The insert that would have originally been fitted to a 551x would have had relatively thick fonts. The insert that Rolex would fit (during servicing) into a 551x today is the thin font version. So either is appropriate for a 5512. Of course, the cost of an original insert is likely to be higher than the more common service replacement part. In my opinion, assuming it has a naturally aged patina, an original insert looks best on a naturally aged watch & the modern insert looks best on a more pristine example.

If you ever see a vintage 62xx Daytona with symmetrically placed pushers (both pushers equal distances from the crown), it is a rep. Asymmetrically placed pushers on a Daytona are 1 of the 1st things I check for when evaluating whether a given watch is genuine or not. Obviously, while useful, pusher arrangement is by no means a definitive test for authenticity.

takosan - Try to reduce your image size to around 1024x768 or thereabouts. Posting such large pics (yours was 3648 x 2736 ) makes it more difficult for others to view them & they increase the time it takes for the page to download/load. Beginning my work week with a bit of Mystery

A properly serviced watch should run correctly from the completion of that service. However, because ambient air temperature/pressure & positional errors can (& do) affect timing, the watch is likely to require fine-tuning (not gross adjustment) based on the wearer's wear habits. Do this - Slowly wind the crown 40 turns & set the time to your computer. Put the watch down (face-up) on a table & let it sit, undisturbed, for 24 hours. If, after a day, it is more than 30 seconds off, I would say it requires attention. Otherwise, not. And, just for reference, I would only pay (or charge, as the seller) additional for 'servicing' if the watchmaker's original work order accompanies the watch.

Not too sure about the dial (texture), but, other than that, I like it.

Great pic, Pete. Keep it safe! From an undisclosed location

After going through a portion of my picture archives & comparing what I am seeing to my own DRSD (which has a brushed silver datewheel), I have come to the conclusion that all of the silver datewheels are brushed, but they rarely appear that way in pics of assembled watches, even macro pics. It is very difficult to get a clear image of the brushing on these datewheels in macro pics. I know, because I have tried many times. Even though my datewheel is unmistakably brushed (when seen with its dial removed), it appears matte (as do most of the other DRSDs I see) when photographed in an assembled watch

You may be right, but this looks brushed to me (& I have pics of other early single & DRSDs with similarly brushed-looking datewheels)