freddy333

The 3 lines of text actually vary on the gens. On dials that lack the DAYTONA above the hour totalizer, the 3 lines are lower. On dials that have the DAYTONA, the lines are slightly higher (similar to my watch) However, like all reps, the DW does contain some minor inaccuracies. That said, the most obvious tell on other Daytona reps is NOT an issue here - the pushers are (correctly) asymmetrical. And, as others have correctly pointed out, since relatively few people know what these gens (with all of their variations & permutations) look like, I would not worry about this watch's remaining issues. At least, I never do.

No sun here today

I am not sure what your question is, but if your chrono second hand is not resetting back to its null (12 o'clock) position, then either it just needs to be removed & replaced in the correct location or the hand is loose on its tube (a common problem on rep chronos) & needs to be replaced, recrimped (if you have a staking set) or cemented with epoxy (Original pic by Avitt)

Until you mentioned it, I had forgotten about that comparison shot

In the case of a standard 1680, I would buy the gen. Of course, value is in the eye of the beholder, but I do not think it makes sense to spend $2,500+ to build a franken (which has limited value outside the rep world) when you can buy a nice gen 1680 for a few grand more. It is only in the case of rare, high-value collectibles (red Subs/SDs, PNs, etc) that I think it makes sense to spend the time, effort & money constructing a gen-powered franken.

The rule-of-thumb for Subs is that the date window should pretty much fill the entire cyclops as can be seen in the pic of the gen.

Yes, it fits perfectly. I believe the base And, in addition to your warnings about the gen crystal not fitting the Silix case, it should be noted that gen & gen-sized aftermarket dials will also not fit the Silix case. The gen dials are about 1mm smaller in diameter than the opening in the Silix case. So, to use the Silix case, you need to use a dial made to fit a rep watch case, which is slightly larger than the gen.

2.5 on all Rolex cyclops.

It is now (after a bit of modding) . However, half the gens I have seen are fitted with a modern pearl, & had I gone with white dial/hand lume, I would have just used a standard (non-metalized) Ofrei dot & still held my head high.

Were it me, I would go with the Explorer & sock anyone in the mouth that tells you your watch is too small.

I guess another congratulations is in order, Raymond. You did well & I agree with you about the V1 GMTIIC being closer, overall, to the gen. Enjoy your new watch.

Yes. But I got the 6200 6204 6205 set instead of the 5508 5510 6538 6536 set, because I wanted the earlier, non-minute-marked insert. I also added a gen vintage NOS pearl to match the enhanced patination of my dial/hand lume.

Thanks. I stand corrected.

I could be wrong, but, in addition to the questionable blue coronet, I do not believe Rolex uses blued hands & index markers on any current model

Great work, but I would relume the hands. Vintage is 1 thing, but loose/falling lume material is dangerous (not to mention unsightly).

Both Flyingzg's & Josh's watches look to have the same case as Silix's ROLS176 (& variants). I agree with Alligoat that the watch used in the Bond films is likely a big crown 6538. The bad news is that the 6538 uses a thicker (15mm) case & the case on these watches is too thin (12mm). However, the good news is that it is just about the right size for the 6538's little brother, the 6536. This is 1 of the projects currently on my bench (awaiting a gen case)

Looks good. What did the restoration consist of?

Thanks.

Datejust today

Check with DW to see if he has any more asymmetrical-pushered A7750-powered 6263s This 1 has been genetically modified, but the stock (all rep/aftermarket) version is what I consider to be the Best Buy in Daytona reps.

Your watch needs general servicing. Check your local phone book or the internet for local watchmakers & phone them to see if they will work on a rep watch. Some will, some will not. Phoning 1st will save you alot of time & embarrassment.

I think Nikki has it half-right - the twitchy running seconds hand IS a well-known problem with all 7750-powered secs at 6 Daytonas. It occurs because of the slop (imprecise machining) within the relocation gearing. Short of remanufacturing the movement, I am not aware of a remedy. As the problem is inherent to the design, graphite powder will not effect it.

Um, no. At least not this member.

Nice find, Ubi. I hope it will see some wrist time now that you found it.

I know that watch. Expended mass quantities of saliva (drool) ruminating over that beauty. It was 1 of the gen samples I used as a model for the enhanced patination of this