freddy333

Ending the work week wearing my non-Daytona 6239

The DW rehaut issue has been discussed in numerous posts (you can search them out if you wish), but I will just say that I have had to mod the rehaut in 2 V72 DW cases to get the V72 to fit properly. There is a good deal of dimensional variability with DW cases (all of them), which leaves fitting a particular movement something of a hit-or-miss affair. This is why I always tell people to go for the pre-assembled 7750 version. The 7750s come with deeper casebacks to accommodate the 7750's taller profile. When fitting a V23/V72 (or removing the 7750's auto-wind module), you should fit the shallower caseback.

If you are referring to the large chronograph seconds hand, then either the hand wand is loose on its supporting tube & needs to be replaced or cemented in place (Original pic by Avitt) .........or the watch requires servicing (cleaning/oiling). The movements in most rep watches are used &/or unserviced, so your watch is definitely not unique.

If you are using a caseback tool, just gently snug, not tight.

The same case is used for both the 7750 & 72 movements, but you would probably need to reshape (with a Dremel or similar tool) the inside of the case to fit the other movement.

I am very happy for you, Stephane.

Looks like a helluva deal.

George - I think it is laudable that you are offering free chess instruction for kids at the library. However, these days, I would consider the librarian remiss if she allowed you to interact with children without having a 3rd-party on-hand to act as a legal chaperon. This is NOT to say you are guilty of anything. But, legally speaking, from the library's point of view, they have to be wary of adults who spend alot of time, on an informal basis, with children. If something were to happen, they may be held responsible & for that reason alone, they have little choice other than to limit you (though being banned for 'LIFE' does seem a bit extreme if you have not done anything wrong). Were it me, I think I would either acquire the appropriate state teaching credentials or teach virtually (online). You might also contact Ferring Pharma to see if they can assist you with your prescription. 1-888-337-7464, Parsippany, NJ 07054, prosed.com.

I felt a bit ceramic today

Thanks for the pics, Mickey. Of all the new Rolex divers, only the 166618LN struck me (& remained) as a model I would actually wear. So I might have to consider 1 of these. In addition to the difference in bezel color & hour hand shape, also note that the numbers on the gen date wheel are serifed & the case edges are sharper & more defined, especially around the CGs. Here is another pic of the gen that illustrates this

I remain unsold on the black dial (sorry, By-Tor, but, to my eye, the magic requires white), but a great review.

The 3 lines of text actually vary on the gens. On dials that lack the DAYTONA above the hour totalizer, the 3 lines are lower. On dials that have the DAYTONA, the lines are slightly higher (similar to my watch) However, like all reps, the DW does contain some minor inaccuracies. That said, the most obvious tell on other Daytona reps is NOT an issue here - the pushers are (correctly) asymmetrical. And, as others have correctly pointed out, since relatively few people know what these gens (with all of their variations & permutations) look like, I would not worry about this watch's remaining issues. At least, I never do.

No sun here today

I am not sure what your question is, but if your chrono second hand is not resetting back to its null (12 o'clock) position, then either it just needs to be removed & replaced in the correct location or the hand is loose on its tube (a common problem on rep chronos) & needs to be replaced, recrimped (if you have a staking set) or cemented with epoxy (Original pic by Avitt)

Until you mentioned it, I had forgotten about that comparison shot

In the case of a standard 1680, I would buy the gen. Of course, value is in the eye of the beholder, but I do not think it makes sense to spend $2,500+ to build a franken (which has limited value outside the rep world) when you can buy a nice gen 1680 for a few grand more. It is only in the case of rare, high-value collectibles (red Subs/SDs, PNs, etc) that I think it makes sense to spend the time, effort & money constructing a gen-powered franken.

The rule-of-thumb for Subs is that the date window should pretty much fill the entire cyclops as can be seen in the pic of the gen.

Yes, it fits perfectly. I believe the base And, in addition to your warnings about the gen crystal not fitting the Silix case, it should be noted that gen & gen-sized aftermarket dials will also not fit the Silix case. The gen dials are about 1mm smaller in diameter than the opening in the Silix case. So, to use the Silix case, you need to use a dial made to fit a rep watch case, which is slightly larger than the gen.

2.5 on all Rolex cyclops.

It is now (after a bit of modding) . However, half the gens I have seen are fitted with a modern pearl, & had I gone with white dial/hand lume, I would have just used a standard (non-metalized) Ofrei dot & still held my head high.

Were it me, I would go with the Explorer & sock anyone in the mouth that tells you your watch is too small.

I guess another congratulations is in order, Raymond. You did well & I agree with you about the V1 GMTIIC being closer, overall, to the gen. Enjoy your new watch.

Yes. But I got the 6200 6204 6205 set instead of the 5508 5510 6538 6536 set, because I wanted the earlier, non-minute-marked insert. I also added a gen vintage NOS pearl to match the enhanced patination of my dial/hand lume.

Thanks. I stand corrected.

I could be wrong, but, in addition to the questionable blue coronet, I do not believe Rolex uses blued hands & index markers on any current model