As most of the old timers learned years ago, there are few investments as safe as vintage Rolex. And with the creme de la creme chasing after the creme de la creme of vintage Rolex, it should come as a surprise to no one that vintage Rolex prices -- especially for those coveted mint pieces -- are stratospheric. After all, if they were within reach of average collectors, they would not be so highly sought after. All I know is that those of us who paid the ridiculous prices for our gens & frankengens did so at the right time.
Everything is possible if you have the time, skills & tools to re-construct the bridge, rotor & mainplate. But, realistically, I cannot see a way to do this. If there were a way, we would have been doing it for decades.
Markers on most aftermarket dials are barely attached as they are, so they are often very easy to remove, realign & reattach with a better adhesive/cement. Just be careful not to splash the adhesive onto the dial. If you do, your only option may be replacement.
Sapphire crystals install onto the case differently than acrylic crystals & I am not aware of any way, short of remanufacturing the case, to get JoeyB's parts to fit a sapphire crystal case.
Caci - your hand looks fine.
As Nanuq cited, the inner triangle should be equilateral (with 3 equal angles). The edges (of all the hands) should be right-angles (not rounded) with flat sides & the metal frame of the triangle should be relatively thick & more or less even all the way around. The red paint is flat & the lume should have no (or, in rare cases, very very weak, quickly fading) glow left (bright lume on 50+ year-old Rolex hands is a sign of recent manufacture).
Here is my gen for reference -
Be careful purchasing so-called 'service dials' as most I have seen are nothing more than aftermarket dials being sold with excuses for why they do not look gen.
As always - buy the seller before you buy the Rolex.
Well done. Those hands look perfect & will improve the appearance of your watch 20% (a proper/matched dial would provide the remaining 80% improvement).
Most winder makers have a listing of recommended winder settings for various watch models on their website. If not, start at the highest bi-directional setting & run for 72 hours. Then, set it to the next lowest setting & run for 72 hours. Keep lowering & running for 72 hours until the watch slows or stops, which means the winder is running too slow to keep the mainspring charged. Set the winder for the next highest setting & leave it there. The idea is to set the winder to the lowest setting that will result in the mainspring remaining fully charged. Movement equates to wear, so the least movement that will keep the watch running is the goal.