freddy333

Welcome & read Toad's Newbie guide pinned atop the Introduction forum.

Ditto tomhorn's comments, except that I think Lange 1 reps are so far off that I would never wear 1. I have been searching for an accurate Lange 1 rep since long before I came to RWG & I have yet to see anything that does not shout rep. At the very least, to come even close to passing for a gen, a rep would need to have the large date feature, which was the hallmark of the 1 & something that the Asians have not been able to properly master. To sate my Lange desires, I picked up a nice Grand Arkade in 2000, which is pretty good, but also lacks the big date. Though, on the Arkade, it is a less prominent feature, so it is much less of an issue

I see great potential, but how about a caseback pic? The Comex engraving on back is the key with these.

I would still decase the movement & see how the movement runs outside the case. If it is just running slow, check out the pinned threads in the Resource Center forums on how to time your particular movement. If it is actually stopping, then it is time to have it serviced.

I can see how distance could prohibit your ability to visit an AD, but age & income level do not. Like any other retail establishment, there are no age/income stipulations or requirements that you purchase what you try on. That is the downside to retail sales - there will always be 'tire-kickers', who sample without purchasing. Certainly, I would not take advantage of this by wasting the AD's time & personnel, demanding that you be given a tour of everything in the store. But, after you have done your online work to narrow things down to no more than a handful of models, there is no reason you cannot ask to see a few watches. For those who are geographically challenged, reps are a way to risk buying something you may not like without spending thousands on a single watch.

Franken is short for 'Frankenstein', Mary Shelly's monster that was cobbled together out of parts from disparate human bodies. In the case of a watch, it is a watch cobbled together from parts. Traditionally, in horological circles, the term generally infers gen or mostly gen parts, but, here, it can also apply to reps.

This is exactly the reason we recommend you go to an AD & try on (& research) the gen before buying/building a copy.

Most likely, the hands are coming into contact with each other, the underside of the xtal or something else on the dial @ that location. If you are able to decase the movement, see if it still loses time @ the same spot without the case. If not, the hands are probably contacting the xtal or case. If it still slows @ at time, check for proper clearance between the hands & dial.

Love the crazing.

Looks like a Yuki to me, too.

Wearing my freckled (& slightly radioactive) OPD today

Unfortunately, I cannot (easily) remove 1 to show its shape, but both bends need to be clean right-angles & we did a bit of heating. But I will try a feeler gauge when I have more time to experiment just to cover all the bases.

We tried a number of springy metals, but they always broke when bent. I will give a feeler gauge a try. Thanks.

I am not sure I see what the problem is? The original xtals fitted to gen 5513s tend to vary in shape

My experience with MQ has been pretty consistent & I have always received exactly what was in the QC pics he sent prior to shipment. You did request QC pics? Phong & NDT are the worst offenders when it comes to receiving something different than what you saw on their websites. Phong, especially, has repeatedly sent me items that did not even match his QC pics. & at his crazy prices, that is something to consider, seriously, when searching for parts.

Regardless of the 'rules, you should always give the other party at least 2 weeks from the time of your last communication (& do not bombard them with repeated messages - that is the quickest way to become a nuisance & get ignored - remember, people have offline lives) before considering a PP dispute. Then, after waiting 2 weeks, send 1 final email warning that if you do not receive a response with 48 hours, you will open a PP dispute. That usually gets the other party's attention. If not, then they deserve to deal with PP.

Adding to Alligoat's comments, the bridles on the pillar plate are supposed to align with the grooves that run along the inner case walls as you can see here The problem is that, on most aftermarket V72 Daytona cases, the grooves are either too high, causing the bridle screws to come into contact with the caseback &/or the dial a bit too far away from the case opening, or too low, making it difficult (often impossible) to vertically align the bridle in the groove. In the latter case, you are kind of screwed because, apparently, no one makes a bridle in the required shape. So you pretty much have to manufacture a custom, z-shaped bridle that makes a right-angle down the side of the pillar plate & then another right-angle into the lower case groove. Both I & Ziggy have spent quite a bit of time trying to make a bunch of bridles that fit, but, unfortunately, nearly all of them break when bent sufficient to accomplish their purpose. Because of this, 2 of my Daytonas have their movements held in the case by 1 (weak) z-shaped bridle. Oh, & just getting the bridle in there is quite a chore, making the idea of removal something you must think twice about before attempting. Actually, the early DW cases had the grooves positioned almost perfectly. But there were 2 problems with those cases - the lug engravings were laser etched (they are always engraved on gens) & the cases had deep/wide cut-outs for screw-down pushers, which ID'd them as Oysters (not a problem if you are doing a 6263 or other Oyster 62xx Daytona model).

I would get a gen folded or rivet bracelet to top it off right.

umairarif - You might want to check with a local postal inspector to see if you can register a complaint about a stolen replica watch since the mail was used in the commission of a crime. As to the other party, if you can provide a direct link to a thread containing your communication with the member, we will look into closing his account. Beyond that, RWG staff do not get involved in private transactions between members.

Ditto

If I was going to upgrade to a V8, I would probably have gone with a Ford or Chevy engine, which are cheap/powerful, produce a great growl & are a popular mod for Zs. But, since the last thing I would do with a restored classic (non-race car) is drive it aggressively, the issue is all academic.