Nanuq

I believe I'll have something new to offer Thursday....

Ahhhhh nothing so pedestrian! There's a saying here in Alaska, Go Big or Go Home. I think I did.

I decided to go forward with the trade. Pics tomorrow!

Here's a nice one that's very hard to find. The inimitable Sector Diving Team 1000, the only GOOD watch they ever made. IMHO.

Topic pinned!

I had an interesting discussion with my local Rolex AD watchmaker, he has a 1530 movement that when he opened the caseback, was mostly a brown lump of rust. He has restored it nearly 100% and says although most of the pretty plating is off the movement, and there's a tiny bit of rust still to remove deep down in a couple wheels, it runs fine and keeps great time. Who would have thought it possible!

I'm possibly making a significant trade tomorrow involving my '63 all original "radial" dialed 1675. I'll post pics if the trade happens.

Please send a PM to member JMB ... he is a machinist and I think he can make a retaining ring for you that will fix this. Good luck!

Very good point. That occurred to me as I installed my first one that way, and my immediate response as I screwed the tube in, was to "go big, or go home". So I quickly screwed it down TIGHT, then just as quickly backed the crown off. Then I waited for the sealant on the tube threads to set up tight. That was 2 years ago, and since then I've been careful not to overtighten the gen Triplock crown I used to install the tube. I screw it down and feel the gasket compress, and it juuuuust bottoms out as the gasket gets smashed. Then I don't go any tighter. It hasn't gotten looser over 2 years and I swim with it every week. So far so good. I suppose some day the gasket will get smooshed and I won't feel it compress like this any more. Then, I'll just pull the stem, pick out the old gasket from the crown and put in another. I've got a little envelope full of the little rascals.

I have used a triangular file or a good fitting screwdriver in the past, when I didn't have the right tool. You can heat the case to soften up the sealant and sometimes those rascals will come right out. To re-install I use the same tool, then I screw the crown onto the tube, and tighten that way. That compresses the o-ring inside the crown, then runs the crown (and tube) right down until the crown bottoms out against the case, or the tube bottoms in its threads. So far no complaints with that technique.

CrazySaleMan is an incarnation of the original "Paul" -- he would send out these bizarre emails about new products and they weren't far from what Crazy does now.

Just for the heck of it, I went to the Internet Wayback Machine and tried to scrounge out the old TRL thread... no luck. Here's as close as I could get, but the topic ran on June 5th, 2005 and I can't find a capture for that date in any of the subforums. Ah well.... it was a glorious day! And this is a nice peek back at how we "used to be". http://web.archive.org/web/20050609024440/http://www.replica-watches-guide.com/forum/index.php

Isn't it right about here that JonTheBhoy jumps in and asks about a Thin Red Line?

The retaining ring should require a press to seat completely onto the case. Granted they stretch over time, but all my gens require a good hard push to get the ring on. When you do that, it squeezes the crystal very snug against the raised rehaut. So no, the ring should not come off easily, you should have to use tools (razor blade and brass tack hammer) to coax it off. When that's on correctly, the bezel itself should be a TIGHT click to get it mounted. You should use your thumb and work it around the bezel, and it will eventually pop into place with a solid click. A friction spring that's too small in inside diameter can interfere with the bezel clicking on... that makes it insanely hard to click into place but it can be done, though the bezel will almost refuse to turn. When the bezel is clicked on correctly it will again take a tool to remove (pocketknife). It will be possible to turn by hand, but pressing down on it will make it much easier to turn. When it's built right, the crystal will be firmly squeezed onto the case by a tight retaining ring, and the bezel will be firmly clicked onto the retaining ring so it can be removed only if you use a tool. There are variances in ID and OD of gen parts, so you might need to hunt around to find pieces that go together better.

That's a great summary, Cornerstone. And since the "elders" from the original RWG are here, with the archives, history and scars, the newcomers over on the new-forum-with-the-old-name are the "juniors".

It's a long story and there are people that can explain it better than I. In a nutshell the old place was circling the drain, so a bunch of us decided to build a new replacement RWG and on the appointed day we released the URL to the members over on the old site and said "come take a look". We picked up a few thousand new members here the first couple days. I'm member #32, but we have that feature turned off now. We affectionately call the old site "RWG jr." but they don't like that much. Do some digging, the story is here somewhere. It's worth the research.

I prefer the Nanuq Quick Winder.

All said, there's one good thing about the bizarre stamped last link on the coronet end of the clasp: The bracelet was too small for my large manly wrists and it was very easy to open that link and cobble in a link from a Yuki 7206, which is also easy to open. After fitting the extra link, it's visible if you look for it, but it hides really well against the clasp and it just works.

Too mainstream, centered dial text, just another big gnarly watch. No thanks! If you can't go vintage, then find a 600T Pro.

Step awaaaaay from the Doxa. This is not the Doxa you are looking for.

But as we all know, the SUB 300 (no "T") is the King of Doxas. Mike, here's the Sharkhunter for you... And here is the King of the SUB 300 series ... the inimitable Black Lung

Hubba hubba! I notice all the snow is melted around the Rover.

In the past I've just found a nice soft steel pin (sewing pin), heated it and let it cool slowly to anneal it, poked it through the hole, nipped off the extra and peened it down with a tack hammer. Works okay, but the head isn't very smooth. I've got one on my 1665 and it works fine.

And remarkably similar to a brand new GMC Volt... recently tested and failed when the driver tried to (gasp) use the heater in winter! Yep I'll keep my old truck. At least when the heater quits working I know why.