panerai153

Sounds like whoever set your wrist didn't do a very good job. that as described is a "Colle" fracture" lots of these with folks who fall and land on their hand with their palm down and extended. See it in kids who land on their hands in playground accidents. Maybe you need to see another orthopedic surgeon. It may take an operation to fix, but you should end up with a straight wrist.

Faded Pepsi Friday

how long have they been Cleared? If the account has problems, or he stops payment on a check, as someone said, it could take weeks for the error to show up.If it does, your bank is going to want their money back. I hope you are correct, mostly for the sake of the guys who sold the watches. Remember too, we have had folks come on board here, do a fair number of legit deals, prompt payment, sweet easy deals, then when they feel like they have built up everyones confidence level, they hit a few members for a big score and then they are gone. It happens all the time on genuine forums, that's why when sellers are dealing in multi thousand dollar transactions, they demand references from the buyer, unless he is known and established on the forum. I bought a genuine Maurice Lacroix Calendre Retrograde from a seller on TZ a few months ago, I have been on TZ for probably 8 years, sold a few watches over there, well, this guy wanted references, or he wanted payment by Paypal gift. Since Paypal gift transactions are not reversible, he wanted to be assured that I wouldn't get the watch, cancel the transaction or open a dispute to get my money back. I emailed him first and told him I wasn't comfortable doing a gift transaction on Paypal for almost 2K, plus it didn't give me much protection either, He got a little indignant that i would even think that he would cheat me on a watch. I emailed him back that I wasn't accusing him of anything, didn't cross my mind, but he was a fairly new seller and I would be glad to furnish references If he would do so as well. i actually had already checked him out by looking at a few of his sales on TZ and emailing the buyers for a reference. I sent him a list of 10 guys that I had bought and sold watches with over the past few years. The next day he emailed me that he would be fine with a regular PayPal transaction if i would split the fees. this was fine, and we made the deal.My point is, it never hurts to check out both ends of a transaction.

Great deal, I do not doubt that he paid that much, if it's in really good shape with minimal stretch, that's what they go for. these parts have probably at least tripled in price in the past 5-6 years. I sold a genuine USA 7206 Rivet bracelet (C&I 77) with 80 endlinks in really good shape, back in 2005, I got 200.00 USD for it, and iadvertised it for a couple of months on VRM and Rolex Forum sales forum before it sold. The USA bracelets are not as desirable as the Swiss made, but they are still selling for a lot more than that now.

You got a deal, I just bought a "H" series 78360 Clasp for my 1983 GMT 16750, and the clasp alone was 300.00 USD. Looking at the Vintage Rolex market, the complete deal, bracelet, corerect clasp and endlinks are anywhere from 700.00 for a really stretched out beat up one to around 1100.00 USD. Genuine Rolex bracelets are crazy priced, just like all vintage Rolex parts.

Freddy, The date stamp is on one leaf, the other leaf has the model# 62510H and the "A" serial. Looking at the Bracelet and Endlink guide, it looks liie the "A" serial was from 1976, so if the 2 66 is a date stamp, they would have to be from 2 bracelets

I thought it had some "sparkle ". i wonder if you could use some of the metallic auto paints. My new Ford F-150 is "platinum white, really white, but it has the metallic stuff that makes it look completely different from the regular White paint. If you could find a more silver metallic, I wonder if it would emulate the "Sparkle" of Platinum dust. Of course you could probably get some Platinum dust and make your own!!

When I bought my gen 16750 about 7-8 years ago, it came on a pretty nice 78360 bracelet w/ 580 end links. I didn't really pay much attention to the clasp at first, it looked OK to me. Well a few weeks later, I was photographing the watch and I noticed that the clasp was not a 78360, rather a 62510H "A" serial. This has worried me for a while, and I finally decided to find a proper clasp.I bought one from a fellow on the VRF. Turned out it was a "H" serial which is what I needed to match my watch's birth year. He asked me about the clasp that was on the watch, possibly interested in a part trade. I sent him some scans and he emailed me back that it looked like the bracelet was put together from parts, as the other blade of the clasp was marked 2 66 with the 2 on top and the 66 below. His reasoning was genuine Rolex clasps were only stamped on one blade. I didn't argue with him, although i had just seen a clasp on the VRM a couple of days before that was marked 1 69 same place with the same configuration. Is mine genuine and all from Rolex as the same clasp, or is mine a "pieced together" clasp? Here are photos.

That looks very nice. i would like to see a really good closeup of a genuine Ceramic GMT, just to see what Rolex platinum looks like. Does the genuine plat. have a semi or glossy finish or is it more of a flat silver?

I'm pretty sure the first one is not a gen insert, although the second one might be, but I'm inclined to think it's the MBW that came on my 1680. Only thing that makes me think it might be a genuine is the pearl glows like crazy with just a little bit of bright light exposure. I've bought gen parts in the past, and I have not been as careful as I should with labeling them. I'm now putting stuff in plastic baggies and labeling them. Probably should usea piece of tape and write what things are and attach the tape.

This guy may think he's smart, but he really is and idiot. He came back to the Vintage Rolex market yesterday and tried to buy a 1680!! immediately slammed as a scammer.

nanug, Thanks for the thoughts and hand aging recipe. I sort of agree with you about the insert, I think the second less "aged" looks more natural. I sent both of them along with all the parts to my watchmaker for assembly (7924). I told him to use the one that fit the best, so we'll see how it comes out.

Thanks guys, sometimes a little rainy day project turns out pretty good.I'm not sure which I like better, the really aged one would work fine on and older model like a 6538 or 7924 with and old faded dial and well aged hands. the other one would probably be better on a 1680 or 5513 with a nice dial and hands, more of a "Serviced 5 years ago and worn a lot" type of look. Incidently, I tried aging a gold hand set using coffee like some folks use, didn't have much success. Didn't take any photos, but I would like to get a recipe for aging hands.

Practically nothing updates with hte USPS!! I had a set of gold hands from HK, never updated past "Cleared customs" for over a week. Monday, there they were in my mailbox. Even shipping to Canada is crazy. I sent a package to Ziggy last week, now Express in the USA is overnight, to Canada should be pretty quick wouldn't you think? Nooooo!! mailed it on January 2nd, it was delivered today. up until Yesterday it was still showing "INTERNATIONAL ITEM HAS LEFT THE ORIGIN COUNTRY AND IS EN ROUTE TO CANADA", so don't depend on tracking, because all it will do is give you and ulcer from worrying.

Congratulations

I have never "aged" and insert before, but it's raining cats and dogs here, pretty much stuck in the house. I had two inserts, one came with the 7924 caseset, can't remember where the other came from. I do know that the unidentified one seems to be of better quality, has a nice lumi pearl. I did some reading, and since ubi has never revealed his "secret sauce", i decided to go the route most folks use, bleaching. First thingI di was give them both a good rubbing with a cape cod cloth and then a trip thru the ultrasonic cleaner. Next I poured about 1/2 and inch of undiluted Clorox into a glass beaker. I used my Iphone timer to get accurate times. I started out with 5 minutes, after 5 minutes, I took them both out and there the differences became apparent. One was ready, had i left it in 10-15 minutes or God Forbid 45 minutes like some folks claimed, It would have been a blank insert. As it turned out 5 minutes gave it what I believe is a pretty nice "Aged" effect. On the other hand, the second one was unphased by the bleach, so it went back for 10 minutes, then 10 minutes more and finally I sort of gave up after one hour!!! I decided to rub on it some, so back to the cape cod, and after about 20 minutes of pretty brisk rubbing, it at last sort of looked like it wasn't brand new. One thing this proved to me, the paint quality of inserts varies wildly. If you plan to age one, make sure you don't just throw it in the Bleach bath and leave. you need to watch the insert. The 5 minute one was very visibly turning, right before my eyes. Anyone can do this, it just takes a little time and patience anda little Clorox. Here are some photos of the inserts at the various stages.

the 1575 movement w/date fits fine in a MBW 1665 case, Others have put 1575's in MBW 1680's. The MBW dial I'm told by alligoat is 26.2 and the genuine is 26.5, so that may pose a little problem.

I got a Timex. it broke before I could sell it!!

Good luck!!

i don't have a dog in this fight, no interest in IWC reps, wouldn't know Concepta if he walked in right now. However, i read the thread on RG. That flies in the face of what he told folks on this forum to whom he owes thousands of dollars! Obviously all that weeping ,wailing and gnashing of the teeth was just and act. I hate scammers, even if they were once trusted members. At some point he decided for whatever reason to cut and run. I really don't believe that all his money was tied up with texski. Over the years, I have had many projects, and have never had anyone ask for the money up front, except wm9, and I got screwed on that one, but that's the only case of pay up front. I doubt that texski was requiring all the money up front before he would start a project. I hate it for all the members here, but it looks like he has comfortably moved over to repgeek, and from the looks of it, I think the money is long gone!

thanks very much for the info.

Hope you feel better soon. My wife has it (the flu!!) as well. She had a friend visiting from Europe over the holidays, and she arrived sick, recovering from the flu as well. I got a flu shot at the hospital where I practice, so, knock on wood, so far I'm OK. good advice, my grandfather put it a lot more bluntly. "Son, keep your mouth shut and your ears open, and maybe you'll learn something" Now to the subject. What i see are a generation, or maybe two that have this sense of entitlement that defies reason. i see young folks entering the work force with the idea that regular tasks are beneath their dignity, they think that they should transition from training into a management position immediately. No matter where they think they should be position wise, none of them are willing to take responsibility for their actions. If something bad happens, it's always someone else's fault!! Another thing, which I find especially distressing is the lack of common courtesy. I live in the deep south, where in the past, folks have been polite to a fault. Not anymore. the level of insolence and discourteous behavior is appalling. they are like this in their everyday life, why should they be any different here on the forum? If you never say please or thank you, open a door for and elderly lady, scoff at everyone older than you, you will not change your behavior just because you are here. I will be more than happy to share my meager knowledge base with anyone here, but if I'm not acknowledged, or at least thanked for my time and effort, I can promise you my memory is long, and my forgiveness will not be forthcoming for a long, long time. I have seen in the past few months a huge influx of new members, some are great folks and a true asset to the forum, but unfortunately, there is a big segment who I really don't believe have any true interest in watches or reps in general. I believe that this segment of the population is here for one reason and one reason only, milk the knowledge cow dry, and then use that to buy a couple of watches and then, poof they are gone!!

I agree!! Do your homework and all will be answered. AFA the comparison, it certainly depends on who you ask. there are quite a lot of us on the forum that are not particularly enthralled with the newer Rolex sport models. I find them very clunky, top heavy and not nearly as aesthetically appealing as the older models. Of course to the real vintage purist, the 16610 is a travesty, mainly because it has a sapphire crystal rather than the old acrylic. I have a genuine "P" serial 16610, and in actuality, it gets much less wrist time than my 1680 and 1665 Franken reps.

Another possibility that occured to me. the guy in the bank may well have inherited the watch. Who knows, possibly his dad was a collector, or just a wealthy guy who owned a few nice watches, or he at one time took up Scuba as a hobby and someone told him that the Sea Dweller was the most desirable divers watch around. Just speculating. I have to agree with Freddy, if the guy was wearing a new Ceramic GMT Master, or a 16610, I could write it off as ignorance, but you just don't normally see someone wearing a vintage Rolex, especially something like a 1665, Early Daytona, 6542, etc. that doesn't have at least a passing knowledge of vnitage pieces.

Comparing dials, what is the size in mm of the genuine 1680 dial and the 16800 dial. Are they both the same size? I know the watch case went from 39 to 40 mm when Rolex changed models from the 1680 to the 16800, but did the dial stay the same, expand, etc?