panerai153

Hey Dad? i 've got one you can do for me!!! It's in the mail. Seriously, that was quite a build, and the watch looks very nice. My dad was sort of like Nanug, the smallest tool he ever used was a 6 # sledge hammer.

i agree with stephane, we are really crazy with some of these mods. The average guy can't tell a Rolex from a Timex, much less whether or not the coronet on your clasp is .0002mm too long!!! The prices of genuine Rolex parts has gotten completely insane. OF course it's "what the market will bear" so if someone sells a stretched out, beat up 9315 for 750.00 USD, that seeems to set a new bottom price. AFA the 7206 Rivet bracelets, i looked high and low for one for my "PanAm" 6542. NDT lists one, but they would never return my emails, yuki was offering them at the time, but his would not accept genuine 2mm spring bars. I ended up buying one from phong.Turns out it's a 7206 stretch, but the end links are wrong 382 instead of 80. But they do fit a genuine springbar, and they fit my case really nicely. I'm happy with the bracelet, wish it had 80's, but who is going to look at the end links anyway? I bet there aren't 200 people in the entire world excepting older Rolex trained watchmakers who can tell you which bracelet/end link combo is correct for all the rolex sport watches. Another thing, if you own a 40 year old genuine Rolex, and had it serviced by your local watchmaker, often times he replaced parts with what he had on hand, especially things like end links,springbars. I have a 16750 that has the correct 78360 bracelet and 580 end links, but the clasp is a 62510 clasp from a Jubilee bracelet. I'm sure the old clasp got bent or broke, and it was replaced with what was on hand. I would like to get the proper one, but it's 200-300 USD and I have more important projects to spend that on. No one knows but me, the fellow who changed it, and now all you guys, so PLEASE don't tell anyone!!! By the way just to let you know how things have changed, I sold a very nice C & I 7206 with almost no stretch 80 end links and genuine springbars back about 6 years ago, and I got 200.00 USD for it, now the rep 7206's are that much or more!!

Is the TC dial that's on the watch now genuine spec? If the current dial is made to fit a genuine size case, then aftermarket dials should work. How about phong (Jewelryandwatch) yuki or NDT?

the WM9 subs were probably the best "out the box" reps going a couple of years back. BK took them to another level. Unfortunately, WM9 disappeared (Some say he was killed in an auto crash in China) however no substantual proof of this. At any rate he left the scene, and also took a pile of deposits and paid in full payments for a 16660 SeaDweller project that never happened. Not to take away from him, when he was producing, he made some really,really great watches. I would bet that the WM9 case will accept almost everything genuine, if you wanted to build a really expensive super franken.

Google Rolex 1680 Red Submariner, look at the photos and read the info, all will be answered.

In your first photos, your phone screen has 5 forums with your sign in name. This is for everyone to see if they look at your photos. Anyone from the genuine forums would see that your sign in is the same. Better to keep that info to yourself. Personally, I think that folks would be wise to use different sign ins for different forums.

Nice build. What movement did you use? Two small suggestions, one I would try to find a better pearl, as the genuine 1680 pearls don't stand up like that one. Second, for your own safety, I would not post photos of your signin name on other watch forums especially genuine forums. Quite a few of the genuine forum guys ( not the ones that are really interested in reps!!) prowl around this and other rep forums from time to time. May create a problem later on especially if you try to buy genuine vintage parts. lots of those guys will not sell to anyone they think will use the parts to build a franken rep.

Very nice!!

Beautiful build. That is a really nice version with the service dial,hands. you get lots of lume, and it's certainly keeping with what you would get back if you sent your vintage to a Rolex Service Center and did not specifically tell them to leave the dial and hands the hell alone!! Using the Phong case solves one of the biggest problems that I see with most 1675/16750 builds, the width of the case guard space. All the others use a 6mm crown and when you try to build a 1675 and use a proper 5.3 crown, it's a glaring defect because the space between the crown and the crown guards is way too wide. yours looks great! Nice to see that you were able to use a 2893-2, as it is a really good GMT movement.

That's the problem with Ebay, unless you know what you are buying, you are ripe for the picking!! notice the seller never said this was genuine, just that he bought it from and estate sale (Yeh!!!) What the unaware buyer does is assume it's the real thing. look at the seller, his other items are a bunch of auto parts. Look at his feedback, mostly guitar parts and bicycle stuff,lots of reds and greys. anyone who had done their homework would run not walk away from this seller. I have a hard time feeling sorry for people who don't do their homework, think they are getting a great bargain, and then get scammed. Ebay is a mine field, and if yopu are planning to go through, you better have a map!!

i totally agree. i have had two DSSD's sold both. I have two ploprof homage Ocean7,s and both are just not practical for everyday wear either. they won't fit under a long sleeve dress shirt, and while the titanium model is incredibly light for the size watch, it still is so big and bulky, it's "always there" on your wrist, whereas smaller thinner watches seem to disappear, and you don't notice that they are there until you look at them.I wear the Ocean7's when scuba diving and they are great for wearing around water at the beach, etc., but not for everyday. AFA I'm concerned, the last great SD was the 1665!!!

like this???

Actually Rolex Did produce a Quartz. The Oysterquartz, from the 70's to 2001. They still have a couple of Cellini Ladies watches with Quartz movements.

Problem with this one, it's huge!! I found the DSSD a little too ungainly for my wrist (About 7 1/2"), so my wrists are not tiny, but this one would overwhelm all but the biggest wrists. I might buy one as a curiosity, but I don't see it as a regular wearer

I believe that the watch "Crisis" in the early 1970's (Seiko introduced the first Quartz watch in Japan on Christmas day 1969), made many strange bedfellows. The quartz watch's prices and popularity, probably took the Swiss watch industry by complete surprise, and they obviously were not in the least prepared for the drop off in sales of mechanical watches. There were so many mergers, closures, etc. that probably anything was possible. Doxa itself went through several merger/buyouts during that era. From Doxa to Synchron to Aubrey all within a period of 10-15 years. No telling how many side deals, private label manufacturing contracts, etc. went down back then. they were in full blown survival mode for a long time.

I'm a toolaholic as well. I would rather get a good set of drill bits than a Polo shirt for twice the price!! My wife doesn't understand the concept, but living out here in the country you need to be somewhat self reliant. I found out years ago, good tools make a job easy, cheap tools or the wrong tools make a job down right impossible!! Have a Merry Christmas everyone.

Merry Christmas to all you good folks out there. I hope that everyone is enjoying a safe and happy Christmas, and Santa left you all nice gifts under the tree.

Several ETA movements for sale on Ebay, also saw one clone ETA 2836-2 on Ebay. Clone price was around 75.00 USD, the genuine ETA's were all from 125.00 USD (no bids-14 hours left) to over 165.00 USD, all were new movements. I don't think that 2824's and 2836's are interchangable, maybe in your watch, but the stem height is different. Best to stick to what replaces your old movement.

I agree Freddy, This one is going to be a beater. I'm saving most of my coins for the 7924 build. Just a few more small parts and it's off to the wizard of the North (Not Nanug!!) for the build. What would you suggest to make this one better, outside of replacing the broken "lollipop" I'm open to suggestions to improve it, as long as it doesn't break the bank!!

That's Great!! Have a Merry Christmas everyone. Eat plenty, drink wisely, and be safe. You don't want to necressarily hasten that sideways slide into the grave.

Tudor Rose

You might try a leathercrafters catalog. there is a company in the USA, Tandy Leather that sells everything you need to cut stitch, tool leather. You will need something to cut the leather into watch blanks as well as something to stitch the leather, as most straps are lined. Go to the Tandy website and have a look.

I just received this Rose dial Tudor Sub from justasgood. Looks like it's a 7016/0 With the "lollipop second hand, but I'm not sure. At any rate it's a Cartel case (Josh) asian slow beat movement, keeping great time. I sort of like it, it will be added to my everyday weared list, I believe that after Christmas, I'm going to send it north to the wizard, I want the hands and dial plots relumed with vintage lume, I'm a sucker for Lume!! May replace the second hand as it looks like the end is broken off.

Very nice write-up, and very good photos. looks like you are learning and contributing which is what this forum is all about. Glad to have you aboard.

Everything's coming up Roses!!!