mezzanine

I didn't read the second half of it. I'm not kidding, I've had to deal with more than a few folks that the type of description as in your first half (before the 'accident') that would fit the description of the character you're playing down to a 't'. It's highly unpleasant, and now I try to screen buyers to see if they're that type of ADD case before I agree to sell to them... Honest to god, I just offer a full refund now if someone gets antsy about the tracking not having been updated for the last half hour. I say "please, can I provide a refund, and then if the watch arrives you can just return it to me or re-send the payment" just stop emailing me about how I need to go to the embassy and see the trade minister.

You are my nightmare. I'm dead serious. That sucks about the accident. But from a seller's perspective, if you're a dealer, sure you have to deal with over-anxious customers, but please, if you're buying a watch from another member don't be so hardcore about the tracking every step of the way. I honestly don't think some folks should buy rep watches because of the problem they have with delayed gratification.

Yeah, I would never even consider owning a serval for the same reasons you stated in your post. They're a wild animal, and the cat that is pictured is actually 5 generations removed from his serval ancestor, so although he shares many of the same markings and such, he's very different from the wild servals that some people keep as pets. Some fraudulant savannah breeders have sold serval kittens in place of savannah's, because the serval kittens are much less expensive...and of course, are wild.

My Devil has finally been updated with a genuine bracelet. My new cat as of last night. I want to name him something watch-related....suggestions are welcome.

Couple more pics from this morning, as I didn't have to chase him with the camera to be able to take his picture... Thanks for the comments, it's been a really interesting and rewarding experience so far to have this fella-

Thanks, he's a 'savannah' which means that he has african serval DNA in his genetic heritage...which explains the spots and exotic look. He's completely domestic, though, in terms of his behavior- uses a litter box, very affectionate, etc.. He can actually be walked like a dog, and I'm about to hop in the shower, and apparently some of them will actually get in the shower with you...they love water so much. They're extremely intelligent, that was the first thing I noticed upon seeing this guy in person- moreso than the exotic markings. They have these big eyes and you can see them working things out...

He's neat. Here are a few pics, just got him home tonight. I usually don't post on this board, but this fella isn't your typical feline...

On the bracelet front, I *just* missed on a genuine flip-lock clasp (93150) and a set of 580's for less than $150 combined. My luck.

The most correct bracelet would be a 93150 with 580 endlinks. Good luck finding one for cheap. After much work, and only through the help of another member here, I'm going to have a correct genuine bracelet for my 1680. There's a few of us that have been on this quest for the last couple of months, just to give you an idea of the time frames involved. If you have $$, it can go more quickly, but otherwise it's both lengthy and exhaustive to find a reasonably valued bracelet. After the difficulty and expense in finding the bracelet for my 1680, I'm thinking of just keeping a 78360 for the 1665. I might put a correct flip-lock clasp on it, but I'm not sure. If enough time goes by, I might try to get a more correct bracelet for the 1665 as well. My 1680 is nearly gen other than the case and movement. It's my daily beater and favourite watch. As a result, I wanted to try to get the proper bracelet for it. Even though my 1665 may even be better looking and is 1b on favourites list, I'm a little more flexible about letting go of the search for the proper bracelet for it. Here's the question: Is it better to use a 'correct' replica bracelet if it's a good one? Or is it better to have a genuine incorrect bracelet, like an Explorer bracelet on a SD? That's the dilemma I'm having, and if I am correct about your last thread, it seems that's a question that many of us are debating. I like the finish of the genuine bracelets. I also am not as committed to the idea of having to have a 'correct' bracelet for a vintage rep...but at the same time it seems kinda dumb to go 99% of the way, and not go that last little bit to have a perfect rep. I'd been convinced I was going to upgrade the bezel on my 1680 to gen, but then decided after talking with someone more experienced that it's not a high-value mod. I may try to do some conditioning to it, I'm not sure what can be done to try to improve the look. I've had the temptation of taking a 1mm file to each of the teeth, but have thought better of it.

Both are gen, and both are currently available for $500 US to RWG members in the sales section of the site, in the "straps and bracelets" subsection. As I've told a couple of friends here, I'm listing both, but once one has sold, I'm likely going to withdrawal the other and use it with my 16660.

I just did a quick look as I have two different sets of 580's right now, and both sets are different. The engraving of '580' on one pair is small and very precisely machined. On the other one, it looks less precise and more like the ones pictured above (the 585's). So there is definitely a difference between them.

Couple of really nice bracelets available on the FS part of the forum...couple of bracelets that happen to come with the very same endlinks that are the subject of so much debate in this thread! If the endlinks go for $250, then is $500 a good deal for a whole bracelet with those endlinks?

I agree that a first rep should be an out-of-the-box solution. Something like a modded SeaDweller, like I'd suggested earlier, is a few stages ahead of the game as far as taste and committment.

I was taking another close look and the stuff I usually look for is: -sharp edges at the corners where the endlink meets the case (on the top) -the biggest thing are the springbar holes being sized and placed correctly -no opening or gap where the springbars meet the interior lug holes -tabs are assymetrical in size, one is bigger than the other That doesn't speak to the engraving. I'm not sure there's a good 580 rep endlink, is there? Right now I'm trying to decide whether it's worth it to go for a genuine flip-lock clasp for my 78360 w/580's.

I think if everyone you know has a sub, you may find that you would want to stay within that 'universe', but come up with something more distinctive and original. I'm surprised by how powerful the social conditioning effect that the popularity of a particular watch amongst a social group can exert on the individual. I'd get a modded MBW 1665 with as many genuine parts as possible. I doubt anyone in your social network owns a 40 y/o DRSD or a GW. I have almost zero interest in modern rollies, and almost never have- which gives you an idea of the difference in feel, IMO. If you're looking for a great rep that is a real eye catcher, and represents the pinnacle of what's possible in the 'rep world', then I would get the Hublot Big Bang with polished ceramic bezel.

I've decided I'm going to get a gen bezel for my 1680, but I'm not in any rush. I'm not going to spend huge $$ on it, and I think I can get one for a reasonable price once I finally get the cash together for a secondary upgrade of that nature. Then again, I just had the thought that the MBW 1680 is modelled after a 5513, which makes me wonder whether a genuine bezel for a 1680 would fit. I think that the bezels are interchangable on both the 1680 and 5513, but I'm not 100%. Considering the work you already have in your watches, I'd consider going after a couple of good dials as a potential worthwhile upgrade. I think you'd be satisfied with the value of that type of purchase. Not everyone would, and I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for everyone as an upgrade. But if you're into the territory where you're adding genuine bracelets, adding a better dial (especially for the 1680) might be a good call.

Very nice. Are you planning on aging the lume at some point on the dial/hands? I think it would take the rest of your mods to the next level, and make the two watches complete. Is there a gen bezel on either of those watches? I know you'd tried the Clark aftermarket, but wasn't sure if you'd tried something different once it didn't work.

I would love to have a properly fitted 1680 case (although it's too late for me), but aren't these viet-cases super expensive? There's a line of diminishing returns for me, where a case that's a few hundred more is probably more than I can spend. I'm tempted to put a 5513 dial into a project at some point. I'm not holding my breath, nor am I really burning to get into another project. It would be a cool situation if we could arrange wholesale pricing for some of Phong's stuff that would be a "next step" in the quality of rolex rep bases.

Awesome Mickey, this is one of the nicer subs I think I've seen. I'm the proud owner of one of Mickey's vintage projects, and if that watch is any indication, then I am guessing this is one watch you have to see in person. I love the lines of the modern sub.

Nice work, Marty. It looks improved. Of all the moderns, it's the yachtmaster that appeals to me the most.

Looks really nice. The SSD is as close as I would come to buying a modern Rolex. It looks better than anything I've seen as far as a submariner.

Definitely not bad. All are reps, as far as what I can tell. I should clarify that by saying re-dials... The second one is the best of the re-dials. Still not gen. Check the 'O' in the Rolex and the small horizontal lines on the "E" and "L", those are very precise on the gen. The coronet looks good to me, and the "m" in the subscript is what made me think it was gen on first glance.

No, there is not. The genuine dial that is in my 1680 was shaved down to be able to fit- so more than just the dial feet needed to be modded. If you're going to buy a re-dial, then get a red re-dial. The dial fits, but it doesn't fit without modifications. There is some debate as to whether it is worthwhile, considering you're 'damaging' an expensive part. I think that while some might be able to find them for less than $700, I personally don't see them out there for less than that if we're talking about genuine vintage in good condition. Whether that is a realistic mod for most folks is debatable, in terms of the value of putting that type of $$ into a part that you are going to have a hard time re-selling for as much as you paid, even with the rapidly appreciating vintage parts market.

I'm currently looking at a gen dial installed in a MBW 1680 as we speak. If that's what you're asking.

I still like having the gen dial in there, flaws or not- it looks a lot better than any reasonable alternative. In terms of the shaving down of the dial- it sucks that it's necessary, but apparently someone recently increased the diameter of the case to be able to make it fit, therefore preserving the dial in it's original condition. I've seen a genuine red 1680 dial being sold that had been shaved down for presumably an aftermarket case. I was very surprised when I saw it considering the price of the dial. It's one thing to risk damaging and de-valuing a genuine white dial, but when you're talking about a red dial worth a few grand, it's a different story. I still think it's going to be rare to see vintage genuine dials in good condition that are not service dials going for $300 in a couple of years. Especially with the way it looks like inflation has been underestimated in the US dollar/economy.