dbane883

nice shots everyone.. cc33.. that s the first time i've noticed how the chrome/nickel has worn off your bezel... excellent IQ with the new toy!

I don't know why, but the 1680 and the 1655 are the only date-Rolexes I like with a plexi cyclops. So I would go with the 127 (top hat preferabbly cause it's badass) on the 1680.

Nice. Great photos too. What set up do you use? Presume ur using a macro lens with a dslr...Lightbox? What about lighting?

If I were to be honest, NO regular paint, acrylic or enamel is acceptable as all will flake eventually. To really do it right , you should use caliper/manifold paint and bake the insert. Thinning the white primer first... Baking. Then applying a silver/grey manifold paint that's applied with an airbrush to get the right texture.. And then baking again. I've done it, but really, after all the effort, just using a genuine insert is not out of reach. Doesn't explain why your paint came off so easily though. Should've been a bit more durable than that.

I don't think so. If I recall, 27.3mm is about the right size for that case.

Your list is not specific enough. There have been dozens of submariner models over the past 60 years. Also no budget was specified. To answer your question, a correct answer is: The best sub version is a genuine one and is available at any authorized Rolex dealer. They all have Swiss made movements.

Extreme? I have no idea what that means .

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Wow @cc33. Simply stunning with that new insert. But your retaining ring is showing . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And yes, I'm too lazy to change the date: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^new insert looks siiickk!!^^^ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, there are many examples of very nicely preserved big crown dials. Patina is a funny thing. In reality, when a watch has been stored in a safe and unworn, the patina gets darker. As such, typically, dials with really rich patina should be in relatively good condition. Emulating water damage is another story. The opposite is true when an vintage dial has been constantly exposed to light.. the patina tends to get lighter..not darker. But a gently worn watch over 50 years could very easily have a nice creamy patina, and still be in near NOS conditon.. Another issue is, given the cost of the "Dark Lord's" dials, I wouldn't have the ballz to beat them up.

You may want to start listing it on Kijiji: http://www.macrumors.com/2015/06/18/apple-watch-2-facetime-camera-wi-fi-new-models/ It's already obsolete.

You're right. You suck at iPhone photography. Looks great on the wrist (not your wrist with those dodgy tats, but anyone else's ). That dial is possibly the finest 2-line, silver depth dial that Valdemort ever made - still kicking myself for letting it go. But glad it's gone to a good home. Thanks for waiting 2+ months. I think I might have ear cancer from all the whining about the delays. But these things take time. Thinning the case to straighten the over-polished sides, re cutting bevels, etc. The stock Phong bezels are completely covered in chrome/nickel. It was a challenge to remove it to look like natural wear over 50 years... So I learn something with every build and appreciate the opportunity. Even managed to get some micro-pitting into the brass once the bulk of the chrome was removed: I hope it's met your expectations and hope it brings you continued good health and prosperity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I think for the average person, Adrian's design is fine. If he put the splines in the lower tube shaft ala gen, guys would need to broach/reem the splines off after installation. Not easy to find the right parallel cylindrical files to do this. Filing down the internal teeth is also fraught with peril. It's easy to file away too much and the tube will weaken and snap off because most will probably use a common tapered file which removes too much material from the top portion of the tube relative to the bottom. His design is superior to gen in terms of ease of installation IMO. The gen 8000, 7000, and 7020 tubes all require the same delicate surgery. With the Athaya tubes, they are ready to go after being twisted in. Sure, he could provide a proper tool, but a torx bit usually works fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think so Kime. The splines on the gen tubes are down on the lower part of the tube shaft. On the Athaya, the internal splines are up near the top in the gasket area. I have a Athaya tube somewhere and will confirm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm. Was the 702 used with the glossy 5513 dials from the '80's? I don't think so. Could be wrong tho. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yes. A m4x0.35 is perfectly fine for Athaya tubes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk And a gen crown will fit on a Athaya tube. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i think i found it (them): http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/message/1338390815/ http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/thread/1338324638/FS+Rolex+5513-12-1680+60's+Super+fat+font+insert----US1000+includes+shipping But the "expert" at the time was comparing two different MK's of inserts. He's comparing a normal fat font (MKI) to a long 5. Thats why the nomenclature is so [censored] up today.. A MK1 is really just a fat version of the MK3... Today, most know better and realize that there are two types of kissing 40's. Even to this day, there is no generally accepted MK for the kissing 40 long 5 (MK0? MK0.5?), let alone a kissing 50 If it were up to me, the regular long 5 should be called a MKI as it came right after the red triangles.. then have a kissing version of that.. and then "skinny 40" from 1963 should be called a MKII, and then leave the current MK3 as it is.. followed by Kissing 40 version of the MK3...Or something like that.. at least make the chronology logical.