ceejay

I have strong suspicion looking at the amplitude and lift angle that this is an Omega Co Axial watch that has been measured on standard/automatic settings. The Co Axial movement needs special settings with a lift angle of around 30 degrees. Otherwise you get this very high amplitude reading. Just guessing that this was just a quick test, not under Omega service conditions? I can't decipher all the readings but it has been measured in 'positions' and is running to COSC spec. Very nice spec! Interesting that this was done at Omega but not on Co Axial settings? Sent from my iBend 6

Reversing wheels that don't self destruct on human intervention? Looks like a decent movement

The Calibre 16 on the dial and Calibre 36 on the rotor. A classic combination! Sent from my iBend 6

You're welcome & all the best with the birth of you're daughter

This any help? http://www.watchprosite.com/?page=wf.forumpost&q=&fi=2&ti=442796&pi=2657376

I use 3M Spray Mount to mount DWO It allows for repositioning without getting things messy http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/EU-HomeLeisure/Home/ProdInfo/MountingFastening/SprayAdhesives/

All hand wound movements are basically the same. When they have no power, they wind with little or no resistance. As the movement is wound the spring tension gradually increases. There should be no force at any time, just a gentle increase in tension that will be felt at the finger/thumb tips. When it reaches its fully wound state, it will wind no more, it will physically stop. You will require force to move it pass this point and break the mainspring or strip a gear. Winding a manual watch is an intuitive process. If it feels wrong, then it probably is. Do not apply force at any time!

You seem to have problem that's not directly related to the stem as you say it sometimes stops without the stem. There are numerous reasons for the intermittent running. Cracked Jewel, bent pinion, damaged gear etc, it could just require a service. Unfortunately, until you get it looked at you are just guessing. Good luck Sent from my iBend 6

I bought the same watch and exactly the same thing happened to mine, same pusher too. I wouldn't call it an easy fix, but here goes... Take the bracelet off. Remove the case back. Pull the crown into hand setting position. Press stem release button and remove stem. (search google for "remove ETA 7750 stem" Undo the 2 case clamp screws and remove the screws and the small tabs. Place a small piece of foam or similar over the back and turn it over. The movement with dial attached should come out. Do not touch the dial and only handle the movement at the edges. NOTE! Somewhere inside the case or rattling about in the movement should be a 'tiny' circlip about 1mm in diameter. There is a chance it is still attached to the pusher, so check. When the pusher is inserted into the pusher tube, the circlip slides into a tiny groove on the pusher shaft and should prevent the pusher from falling out. My circlip was to small and it passed through the pusher tube. I put the circlip on to the point of a needle and GENTLY pushed it down the needle to enlarge it slightly. Now you have to insert the pusher and fit the circlip on to the pusher shaft (good luck here!) If you get this far then it's just a reversal of the disassembly, ensuring you thoroughly clean any dirt, smudges or dust inside the case. And make sure the the case back gasket is properly seated in its groove before screwing the back on again.

Live and learn, cheers chaps

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clear-Plastic-Craft-Beads-Jewellery-Storage-Organiser-Compartment-Tool-Box-Case-/311482963026?var=&hash=item4885d4d452:m:m3hRLo6pnJpkvcRL1SIrLNQ

From my observations... All the asian 7750's I have seen do not have a stamp under the balance wheel (ETA Logo) your picture does have a stamp 'Most' of the asian 7750's I have seen have blued screws to mimic the top grade Swiss 7750, your picture doesn't Most importantly, the "Lock" that Mickey refers to. In your picture, it has a kink in the spring that extends from the bottom of it (in-between the 2 screws below Mickey's arrow) The asian 7750 does not have this, it has a straight gauge piece of wire. Mickey, are you not referring to the "Hour Counter Lock" 55.288? It's the only plastic piece I have ever seen on any 7750. It is plastic on the asian and swiss. Anyway, if the movement in the picture is the movement you receive then it's genuine. If you get it, post a picture and we will soon tell you good luck.

Ivan has a web page, you won't get anything from it though, especially window shopping On this site, not to my knowledge. But who knows? Don't PM me for the webpage, just do a search.

My understanding is Ivan does the best dials. But you are looking at 4 figures and will require a reference.

Cool watch, I like the look of it. But would I buy one...Nah.

This is mine and started as a 1655 from Josh. This has the correct 5.3mm crown fitted Lots of work go's into these builds, but they are worth it.

Sure can & on some of the higher end timing machines you don't have to have the lift angle displayed. The vast majority of people just have it set to "Auto" the timing machines normally have the lift angle preset to 52 degrees so just mount the watch and away you go. Antique watches etc can have differing lift angles as does the Gen Omega Co-Axial watches. That's when you have to manually change the lift angle. And before anyone asks, no I am not going to try and explain what lift angle is!

No, it was M2M sales over RWI & RG

When you look at that trace above everything looks great. But that watch isn't moving, once it's on your wrist and moving about, a bit of extra inertia (?) and that can start knocking NOTE: I have seen twice recently a rather cunning little 'scam' regarding amplitude. Top right of the trace is the lift angle, this can be set manually and will affect the amplitude reading. It should be around 52 degrees as above. The 2 I saw recently had higher lift angles programmed which had artificially raised the amplitude

To high an amplitude and the impulse jewel will start hitting the pallet fork causing knocking and inaccuracies in timekeeping. Anything higher than 315 degrees is cause for concern, normaly too high an amplitude indicates a problem with the mainspring providing too much power. Amplitude with 333...run away!

Is it because parts can be used in gen Daytona's? Because franken builders want them so bad? Is it rarer than the other vintage Valjoux's? All the above or something else?

Unless he's changed supplier in the last year or so then these are not thin enough to dent without a fair amount of force. I have just tried on mine

Here you go... http://rafflestime.com/milsub-watch-case-back/

Thanks Mickey, I bit the bullet and bought one of their watches from a UK seller. £125 delivered is good value for a manual wind chronograph watch & it will sell easier after I have finished with it. Looking forward to working on a column wheel chronograph, easy peasy after the 7750!

Guys I'm looking for the cheapest source of sea-gull st19 movements, either in a watch or stand alone movements. This is my next project in Horology training. If you can help me out with any links it will be much appreciated. Cheers Sent from my iBend 6