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Everything posted by ceejay
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The hacking on the 7750 uses a break on the balance wheel. So all you need to do is gently flick the balance wheel to see if it is free or braked by the hacking lever. You may be able to see this hacking lever that is just hidden away underneath the bridge where it says HUB4100 at the 11 o'clock position of the balance wheel in your photo. If it is still hacked when the stem is pushed in then you have a problem in the keyless works/stem which is hidden under the dial side. Good luck
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Congratulations, a worthy save there! A little bit of information regarding the INCABLOC. Did you know that INCABLOC specified that all watches supplied at this time (70's?) that used the INCABLOC shock system HAD to have INCABLOC written on the dial as you see here? I believe it was the reason why some manufacturers like Rolex used a different shock system called KIF etc so they didn't have to have INCABLOC written on their dials. Any idea what the movement is in this? Cheers.
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Mines finished and performing well I have not had hands on experience with the cartel 1675 case, but it has been said many times it is too deep for an accurate 1675 build. You have to make the decision between most accurate which equals more expensive. This is the cartel 1655 case build. Or go for the cheaper but less accurate cartel 1675 build.
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VW California SE fully kitted out...including the kitchen sink
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Cartel 1675 & 5512; how to convert to low beat movement?
ceejay replied to gsiguy's topic in The Rolex Area
As far as I am concerned the 3804 you are showing is a modified (GMT) 2813 Here in my opinion is the real 3804 as supplied by Cousins UK. This movement has a far more reliable date change and better implementation of the GMT function. I have posted before about my concerns of dubious suppliers selling a modified 2813 (GMT) as a 3804. Make your own mind up? -
Cartel 1675 & 5512; how to convert to low beat movement?
ceejay replied to gsiguy's topic in The Rolex Area
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Cartel 1675 & 5512; how to convert to low beat movement?
ceejay replied to gsiguy's topic in The Rolex Area
DG3804B (the real one) here https://www.cousinsuk.com/search-results?searchtext=3804 I say "the real one" as some sellers sell a modded 2813 GMT which as I said above is crap. The DG3804 is a pretty good movement. Sorry don't know if the 3804 will fit in a cartel 1675, it fits in the cartel 1655 case which is thinner (more gen like) than the Cartel 1675 case. -
Before you start pulling your 6497's apart to service them a word of warning...it's NOT as easy as it looks in that little animation. Taking it apart is easy but theres a few things that is not shown. The barrel is not taken apart to show the mainspring. Servicing of the mainspring is crucial and removing and replacing it requires a special tool. The balance jewels are not removed on this animation, this is another crucial and often overlooked part of a service, it's also a tricky operation. When you have it in pieces do you have the right equipment to clean the parts? if you do not then you are wasting your time. If you think you will be doing good putting oil on to a dirty movement, think again. That will just act like a grinding paste and stop your movement. Do you have peg wood to peg out/polish your jewel holes? Do you know how to replace the balance [censored] so that the impulse pin correctly engages with the pallet lever? When replacing the bridges do you know how to check that all your pinions are seated properly, if you do not you can easily end up with a bent/broken pivot. You should be using a grease on the winding stem, also if you get oil where it is not supposed to be it will 'creep' away and into parts of the movement that could effect timekeeping or stop the watch. Oh, and don't forget to put a TINY drop of oil onto the faces of the pallet stones, you will need a very steady hand and good magnification to do this properly Don't put oil anywhere else on the escapement Just a little insight into what seems like an easy movement to work on Good luck guys
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Cartel 1675 & 5512; how to convert to low beat movement?
ceejay replied to gsiguy's topic in The Rolex Area
Why don't you go the tried and tested way of doing a good 1675? Cartel 1655 case that is thinner and closer to gen than the cartel 1675 also accepts gen parts. DG3804B movement, a good reliable low beat (21,000) GMT movement, not the 2813 modded to GMT as it's crap! from there you can choose dial, hands, crown, bezel etc from clarks, WSO, Ingod, raffletimes etc. Takes away all the guess work and you get a better case to mod -
Here you go fella http://www.helenarou.com/10-mounting-screw-clamp-for-eta-2824-2836-102824283664976498.html Sorry, didn't read properly. These are ETA ones
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It will only stay wound if it is being worn on your wrist or is placed in a watch winder that rocks the watch for you while you are not wearing it. It doesn't matter what direction it winds in, it will not be damaged through winding. The mainspring is designed to slip once it is fully wound.
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They are basically the same as manual wind movements with a couple of extra gears and a rotor to aid winding. Some can be wound in only one direction that the rotor rotates in, others can be wound in whatever way the rotor rotates. There have been some watches where they have increased the power reserve through twin barrels (mains springs), more efficiency etc, but most watches are similar in their power reserve.
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What was you expecting? Most modern watches have a 2/3 day power reserve, unless you buy a quartz
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Looks good to me. I have seen a updated movement offered somewhere that sorts out the incabloc Y issue and the engraved Panerai in the top bridge. But those faults are on the back of the watch
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See that little round window showing off that lovely balance wheel and hairspring...lovely engineering right there. Unfortunately this is a highly modded pendulum as the original does not have a balance wheel or hairspring. It uses magnets I wouldn't even bother reporting that.
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Dumont carbon steel tweezers, not stainless. Small Arkansas whetstone, for dressing your tweezers and screwdrivers. Bergeon movement holder (the larger model) I would go for something like the A & F brand of screwdriver with changable blades, get some varying diameter steel rod and learn to grind and harden your own screwdriver blades (it's not hard) with a small homemade spirit burner. Good luck
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Picking up my first Pam. Looking for the best 177
ceejay replied to Someday's topic in The Panerai Area
I haven't seen one offered with a swiss ETA? IMO the asian 6497 is a excellent movement and easy to service, cheap to replace. -
Thanks for the info Pete. I haven't came across a 3804B with the coloured auto winding wheel yet but as the gear train appears the same on the 2 movements then you will see them no doubt An additional bit of info for reference, The balance cocks on the 2 movements are different and not interchangeable. The balance [censored] on a 2813 has a cutout at the end where the securing screw is. The 3804B does not have this cutout. The locating pins line up ok but the securing screw hole does not. I did take the balance wheel/spring out of one of my 2813's and put it in the 3804B and it works fine This week I will be working on straightening the hairspring of the 3804 after I put a screwdriver through it when regulating it!
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Thanks Aston, I will have a search. Cheers
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As part of my horology training I am currently working with the 6497 manual handwind movement, seconds @ 9. I want to get a IWC (done the Panerai already) homage case, dial, crown etc to suit this movement. Nothing bigger than 44mm preferably a bit smaller. It has to be unbranded as reps are frowned upon Any recommendations guys?
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Seems like it isn't as simple as that. My experiences so far. I bought a Rolex 1655 from PC that came with a 2813 (that is what was advertised) this is a GMT movement. My build required a 3804B so I bought one from Cousins. Just looking at the Cousins supplied 3804B it was a GMT also but different implimentation of the GMT layout and date change to the 2813. The 3804B from Cousins has a better quality GMT function and the Date change is much better. I then went and dropped the Cousins 3804B and broke the pinion on the centre seconds wheel. Cousins are out of stock but I found this place http://www.jkhorological.com/sub-category.php?subcat-id=6&start=8 When this 3804B arrived I noticed immidiately it was different to the Cousins supplied 3804B, infact it was the same as the 2813 that I got in my 1655 from PC. I couldn't use it, so I stripped it and took the centre seconds wheel out and it fitted the exactly into place on the Cousins supplied 3804B...result! So to sum up my findings... The 3804B & 2813 are similar but have distinct differences. GMT & Date change layout. The 2813 can be GMT or standard 3 hands, it has a purple coloured wheel on the auto winding bridge, avoid this as it is lesser quality. The cousins supplied 3804B was the best movement out of the 3 I have. Some companies are supplying a 2813GMT and calling it a 3804B, watch out for the purple wheel on the auto winding bridge. If it has this then it's a 2813...shop elswhere Hope this helps & makes sense?
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Yeah, I removed to much metal from the case, that's why the bezel looks too big and the missing lume was me being careless when putting it together. I will get it re-lumed in the future and may do another case. Regarding the silver date wheel, I just found this https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=190119 and this http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/149110-rolex-gmt-master-history-and-reference-pictoral-part-1/ Looks like they had white and silver....phew, I got something right Thanks for your comments freddy.
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Well I am happy with my first build. All my own work and a steep learning curve with many frustrations along the way. Much experience gained with this! As you will notice, not much lume left on the dial through carelesness. This will be relumed in the near future. A little too much meat taken off the crown guards. I managed to drop the DG3804 movement at one stage resulting in the centre second pivot snapping. This meant I had to strip the movement and luckily I had a DG2813 movement that has the same seconds wheel. Reassembling that was time consuming due to having to get 5 pivots lined up in their jewels when the top bridge went back on. Perserverance payed off I am not perticularly happy with the WSO bezel, I think the indent teeth are poor considering the high price you pay for this bezel assembly. I will get my little file out and get to work on them. I think the 5.3mm crown looks ok on this when I compare it with the gen. The gen has a little daylight between the crown and guards like this. I went a little deep into the crown tube area so the crown sits flush with the guards rather than poking out a little. Nit picking but looks ok on the wrist. Spec: Cartel 1655 case re shape. by me. Raffletime 5.3mm Crown & tube glued in using BondLoc Titanium Epoxy. Raffletime hands including that expensive small GMT hand. Hands given a little dried salt water treatment Ingod dial WSO bezel assembly PolexPete DWO Drilled lug holes with gen spec spring bars. A little more work to do on 1 lug hole as the spring bar doesn't push right through. Also polish end of spring bars. DG3804 movement. Raffletime millsub caseback Clarks plexi crystal slightly aged. Timefactors Nato Band. Not brilliant pictures, but you get the idea
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New movement old watch, your thoughts please..
ceejay replied to marlin22's topic in The Panerai Area
Lovely photos of a lovely looking movement! did this start off as an Asian 6497? Did you do the bridge engravings, that looks lovely apart from the gap in the double 's' in Suisse, the blue is nice. Did you do the Y mod on the incabloc & swan neck reshape? The main plate engravings are spot on, brilliant achievement there! The Marlin watch logo, love it Nice work!