Nightwatch

Hi, it´s all about the dial feet, in this case Yuki is just stating the dial is made for/will match an ETA movement instead of a Rolex or DG2813 (i.e. it will not fit a Rolex-movement without breaking the feet but it will fit an ETA-movement). The size consideration is related to the caseset and not the movement itself (a 28mm dial will not fit a caseset made for 26mm), how much tolerance there is will depend on the specific caseset.

Hard choice between some though contenders, ended up voting on the AP Diver as the TC YM may be considered "modded from factory".

Supermirrors has a recent offering: http://rwg.cc/topic/183983-rolie-1675-gmt-pepsi. In the 21j version - to allow for some financial room for upgrades - it might be a reasonable base for a budget-build or a nice beater for the price. The other option is to go pricier and checkout the build specifications with Rolexaddict, he made some awesome Blueberrys.

Whenever the pic quality is as bad as this one beware. Read the .exif info - it´s a clear indicator. Whoever buys a gen Hublot - new - also owns a DSLR from Canon or Nicon or has an expensive Leica - just for fun, doesn´t need to be a photographer. At the very least the pic has to be from the latest iPhone alternatively. Neither applies here. To my knowledge the gen does not come with a blue protective plastic film on the clasp (except reps). Let´s see how this develops.

It looks good overall, specially endlinks, bracelet and crownguards. The other Sub "that overrides these flaws" is the classic 16610 from TC in the V6 version. At a later stage or if movement/stem problems develop on Your SA3135 You can always upgrade the datewheel overlay and have it well centered when going with a replacement TC 2824-2 or a Yuki-movement. Same goes for the crystal (replace with gen) and hands.

You´ve been through a heap of qc-pics already so just get it, there will be another released before this Year is gone. The 3135 is an unreliable specialty movement, so just get this if You want to invest more and upgrade soon; The dial on the 3135-version is inferior to the one on the reliable A2836, starting with the spacing 300m and the crown on the dial. What the V6s needed in the first place was a much better insert compared to previous versions - and it just isn´t.

JF AP Diver V7, stainless steel. Superior antireflex coating on the crystal and loupe and a better inner bezel improving an already fantastic replica. It still retains the asian ETA 2824-2 movement which is reliable and can be serviced or replaced. TC Yachtmaster with KH dial. The best Yachtmaster with a supreme dial and TC´s superior craftmanship and finish.

Looking good, closer up pictures of all the six chronographs would be fine:)

It must be something with the weather these days, same happened to my car the other day (Fabian Oeffner pic)

Congrats Diseno. It´s a winner pic and thanks for the details how it was made.

Great looking leather for the BB. Congrats:)

That made my day

v6s A2836 - IF it is available.Intime is totally ok and fair in all regards. You might well add another non-Rolex, non-Chrono watch to the purchase. 1 watch = used 30 days per month 100% 2 watches = used 15 days per month 50% 3 watches = used 10 days per month 33% Exaggerating here, buy You get the idea.

Vintage GMT-Master

Hi and thanks. This is what I use http://watchlume.com/RELUME-KITS, got the kit with green powder from ebay and did not try the others yet, they also offer white or vintage. It´s easy to mix, bright and long-lasting, cheap, it´s my only kit so I don´t have comparisons if others work better or not but I will stay with this as I´m happy with it (and I use lume for checking time). For the mixture itself I´m now just using the acrylic and maybe 1 or 2 drops of the binder the kit comes with. While reluming I just add water drop by drop if the original mixture is drying (10 or 15 minutes into the process) or if pausing cover the recipient with tesa film and can use it later to refinish. The acrylic paint itself will produce a consistent grainy texture. With this method when it dries the center of the dots will sink in a little and needs a tiny second go at it. Still waiting for an oiler kit I ordered 6 weeks ago to see if I get better results (for a 3 6 9 dial) but it might be lost in the mail. At the moment it´s mainly toothpics. Other benefits I see is when totally dry (next day) the acrylic may be slightly sanded or if it went wrong popped off as a dot to try again.

In daylight the Nescafe works well but the lume in the dark will be very grainy with dots. Like Dlf I´ve been using acrylic paint and it works best. Acrylic white and tiny bits of raw sienna and yellow ochre work well imho (burnt umber is more reddish). A kid´s set is cheap and has 12 or 24 colours. Nescafé lume (it has blotches if You look close up later covered this with another layer) acrylic lume, much more crispy (ok, I like lume even on vintage watches, it´s for reading the time) bright acrylic-mix on the Tudor darker acrylic after previous nescafe on the sub

Thanks for the info Mike. Looking forward to the envisaged improvements. It´s a real challenge to maintain the fine Gentleman´s Watch Club atmosphere, helpfulness and knowledge/expertise on the one hand while dynamizing everything going on on the other. With the new Mod team hard at work and keeping good longterm goals everything is achievable.

Several awesome tips for now and for future reference. Picture of how to proceed is forming, thanks:)