I'm in trouble with a movement because the inca spring (similar to this below) got broken as soon as I touched it...
I have already bought new springs model 170.03; 974.03 and they doesn't fit (they are too thin in the "bar" that block them on one side, so they don't stay in the incablock).
Now I'm gonna order 476.03 and 570.03, but if someone has a spare one around that knows it fits, I really would be grate.
Thanks a lot, GenTLe
Finally: before mounting the autowind bridge have 1 liter of chamomile ...
Yesterday 1.30h to mount that bastard... Once the oscillating pinion was going out, another time the reverse gear was moving, then the hammers, maybe all ok but the hour pinion was not in the jewel... AAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
Ah yes... Plus the main spring winder, 'cause without it you simply can't reassemble the main spring...
About the Fixodrop, I got it (5cc) from here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moebius-8941-Fixodrop-Pour-epilamage-For-epilame-2-5-5-ou-10-ml-a-choisir-/400280543549?pt=FR_MaisonJardin_Horloges&var=&hash=item5d3294613d
Take care when placing the automatic device bridge: the oscillating pinion tends to disengage from the "clutch 60 s, 2 functions" and then, when you screw the automatic dev bridge you risk to break the oscillating pinion...
In the animation the Jisma 125 is used only for the dring pinion which, in the eta chart, is replaced by Molycote DX
For Jismaa 124, the alternative is Moebius 9501 Anyway, if you download the latest Eta lubrification charts, there's no Jismaa/9501 for the 7750 (it's only in the 2836 and 2824 cannon pinion with driving wheel)
Currently Asian eta are better than fake or refurbished Swiss eta. And Noob factory gold plated Asian Eta are the best ones.
If you want a gen good Swiss one then go for Sellita (if proposed as movement choice for your piece).
Let's try a different approach: should the levers apply their force on the hand horizontal inferior surface, near to where they connect to their tubes or below the tiny tube wall sections (where there is the tiny step between the tube and the cannon pinion)?
Hi Mark, can you give me some hints on how should I proceed?
I'm just wondering: if I use a little file I'll not create burr and make the post even shorter; if I hit the top of the post with a punch tool (providing to find one with such tiny edge), there is the risk to make the post "fat" and block the gear, if I put a little drop of 2 component epoxy glue on the top of the post it may work but if it glues the gear I'm fu__ed...
Tnx! Alex