GenTLe

Don't write it... Don't just give sellers another excuse to rise again the prices

Have you thought about a Rolex Cellini? Narikaa and FatPanda (watchfinder) at the other RWG have some very good and quite inexpensive ones.

There's a preview at Angus' site. Some stolen pics (from metalmickey that got them at pure time): Comparison with the gen: LOL, I still remember when I asked about this at Toro and he replied "I don't think this is gonna be repped"

Read in the pinned posts in their areas. In those posts you'll find what you're searching for Consider also that there are few of them that don't have a proper site, like Sead @Supermirrors (who is very good too). Finally: read the link in my sign, it will really spare you a lot of troubles when going to get your reps.

You are on the border... Ask a pic where you can count the links.

I've a 19cm wrist and on my Blue/black bezel BP GMT 2 pro hunter I had to remove 2 links, if this can help you. The nr of the links on mine were 13 in total plus the clasp and the SEL This is another identical one that I've already sold (bought twice the same watch because I killed the 1st one):

Luxury brands are really trying hard to ridicule themselves... 1st the spare parts cut Now this... I'm so happy to have my reps...

Thanks Bob, i'll try

I have 3 couples of levers. These (1 pair untouched and one pair sharpened): and these (which are originally for something else but are good for the small seconds or the chrono hands): Plus I have a Presto 1 and a Presto 6: I had problems with hands splitted from their tubes: twice for minute hands (that I managed to reinsert in their tubes!) and twice with center chrono second hand. A friend of mine (10 years horologist) told me to use levers instead of the tools, but I'm wondering if the force with the levers isn't provided asimmetrically and so worse than with the tool. More over for the central second, he told me to put a micro drop of oil before to try the removal... Is it valid? Maybe some WD40 in the tube hole. And finally, with the levers and presto: Do you use them to take out ALL the hands in a go or you manage to take out 1st the second, then the minute and finally the hour hand? Thanks, GenTLe

Wrist grenade today

A sum of things: 1 display their cars (I did the same even if it's a 10yo Alfa) 2 they (my case too) spend a lot of time in queues so it is a good moment

Very nice tool you have there!

Not that difficult. Unscrew the balance [censored] screw, put a 0.8 or 1mm screwdriver between the balance co-ck (the - is not to get it "censored") and the main plate and rotate the screwdriver a bit to unlock the balance co-ck from the main plate. Then with the tweezers grab delicately both the balance co-ck and the balance wheel (but STAY AWAY from the air spring) and remove it. Like you see here (from minute 3 to minute 4)

Betting on this one too

Not me guys, just to avoid misunderstanding:) Anyway with on line bank transfer forms it is sometimes a pita to make international transfers. I.e. my bank always asks for 3 things on the form: beneficiary, swifth (8 characters one) and Iban. Without these details you can't really move on there. Maybe using the phone call system you can (never tried) but still a pita

Welcome mate

You'd better have a sort of timegrapher for doing it well. Really moving the adjustment of 0.1mm may change the time up to 30sec/day. To understand the direction is easy: if you lenghten the part of the hairspring that works then the balance will rotate a bit slower. If you shorten it then the balance will run faster. In other words, if you move the coarse regulator in the direction of the stud that keeps the end of the spring you'll make the balance to run slower (so the watch will run slower), if you move it farther from the stud that keeps the end of the spring the balance will run faster (so the watch will run faster). Also you really have to take ultracare not to get in contact with the hairspring with the tool that you use to push the regulator... It's the easiest way to kill a movement

Here http://www.christopherwardforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2339 BUT BEWARE there is a really WRONG thing there. What there is described as "coarse adjustment arm" is not that! That one is the stud where the hair spring ends. If you move that you influence the beat error and that is not a good thing. The real "coarse adjustment arm" is below the autowind bridge, see my reply at page 4 of that thread.

Hi All, I recently bought M2M here a Noob sub-C v3. The watch was nice but unfortunately it has a problem at date wheel system level (and the seller told me he wasn't aware...). Practically the date doesn't change by itself and only operating with the crown with quick date set it can be moved on. I unassembled the movement and I got that the problem in the Intermediate date wheel (part nr. 41 in the eta charts). Using the time setting function to quickly make the time to pass for the movement, I've seen that while the hour wheel moves the engaged Intermediate date wheel, and this last one transfers the movement to the date indicator driving wheel, the intermediate DW gradually lifts/tilts itself (on the side where it engages with the hour wheel) to the point that it loses the engagement with the date indicator driving wheel which, having a spring system, is being counter rotated to the rest position. I already tried to replace the Intermediate date wheel, the date indicator driving wheel and even the minute train bridge, but the problem is still there... If, with tweezers, I keep the intermediate DW in position all works normally. Any advice, please? Thanks, GenTLe Here some graphic (don't consider the 2 light blue big arrows which are part of the original graphic and yes, the minute bridge was properly fitted)

Ok ok, joking This is used in Naples to avoid be robbed: it's pure transparent plastic

Well, if so you should have got the Asian ETA one, not the "bad sweeping second hand / no spare parts" 21J. But now it's a bit late for that

What's wrong to get one at Creationwatches site and ship it to Netherlands and wait you to be there to use it? But I suggest to get a Monster, or to invest other 45UK£ and swap the movement with a 4r36 (crown @4) like I'm gonna do within one week:)

NW: nice this too, but I prefer the other one as it has a (imho) better dial color

Yes, that's his new domain.

Wait a sec... I am reading here -> http://www.watch-wiki.net/index.php?title=Seiko_7S26 Gosh... It's correct: not hacking seconds (and this I've already seen) and not hand winding capable. I thought ALL the auto were able to handwind, other than autowind (like all the ETA, Seagull and Miyota I've seen since now!). Not the best watch for someone like me that changes the watch frequently for rotation with the others... Maybe one day I'll replace it with a 4R36 movement (the same used in the Monster)