HauteHippie

Once upon a time the answer was yes. Having not seen recent pics, I can't say for sure. If you could post pics, we could definitively answer the question.

UPO - do it for sure. It makes a huge diff. SMP - I recommend it although you're correct that the gen doesn't have it. Check out Bazz's closed factory 007 pic in my AR eye candy. MBTW - Never seen a gen Porto - Probably has double AR... if you think the white face doesn't have much reflection just wait until the crystal is coated. Carrera - Same as SMP. All advice is my opinion and only my opinion.

Chad I agree with you on Davidsen's dials. Most aren't very good. Look at the picture below of the 232... The RADIOMIR PANERAI print isn't properly centered. It's shifted to the left. It also appears to be off horizontally, slightly slanted downward from left to right.

Unfortunately I can only recommend to you who to AVOID in the UK. A certain someone who apparently is still (as of this week) working on (and ruining) watches.

JBUSTDEL's observation is in line with Dario33's in my opinion. Because if you're not sure if a gen crystal is double AR or single AR coated, then it's most likely single AR coated... Double is too obvious. So it sounds like Corum's are single AR.

It looks like it should be Omega Sapphire Crystal 062SB3063 for the 45.5 mm PO. Case number is 168.1650. The only thing that bothers me about the crystal part number though is the SB instead of SA... The A is for AR.

It seems like the only time I post to these anymore is when I'm wearing my Frankensub... Well I'm wearing it as I type:

Reflections from an open window? Apples and oranges.

I would try to fit it without cutting it. The extra material might be useless, but it might not get in the way either. Similar wheels with excess material are used in ETA based frankenjusts.

LOL - OK no more PMs!! I didn't really mean "never"... I just don't wear it often anymore. But it's not for sale and I still do pull it out and enjoy it on occasion!!

FYI - I have seen three versions: single AR from the old slow A7750 version that is caked on like you wouldn't believe and VERY difficult to remove; single AR from the new A7750 version that is relatively easy to remove; double AR that is overly tinted and not very good quality. The double AR version has such a noticeable color to it that it actually darkens the dial. Very unattractive IMO. Of these three versions, the single AR on the new A7750 version is the best, but it's only on the inside surface. I'd suggest going with the single AR version and then doing the gen double AR yourself.

There are old school MBW and TW Best cases with and without lug holes that are very good. The Noob case has poor rehaut and isn't worth modding, IMHO. Here's my old school TW Best with lug holes that I never wear :

I can recommend the Noob dial, bracelet, date overlay, and even case back but not case. You want an old school case if you can find one to do it right.

Looks good k222. HBB owners will soon be your best friend. You're very close to perfection and miles ahead of the stickers! As for improvements, I think your lettering is a tad large and shouldn't be cut off in the window. And it probably needs to be a little bolder and darker. The bottom of the U should be flatter, etc. But overall, a very respectable first go at it! Nice job. Gen for reference:

While I hear you, I would say that it's marketing and meant to be taken with a grain of salt. As with everything in life, temper your expectations, don't believe everything you read, and most importantly do your homework. No rep is perfect. We know this. "Ultimate", however, seems reasonable. The UPO, for example, is the ultimate PO rep, right? Would you agree that it's the best available PO rep? So it is the ultimate (but still not perfect). 1:1 is perhaps the most controversial, IMO. 1:1 to me means case and case part dimensions in relation to the gen. It should also refer to hand lengths, dial marker sizes, etc. I don't ever expect perfection in every aspect of a 1:1 rep though, and yet I still think 1:1 is not only a reasonable term if used truthfully to refer to CNC dimensioning, but also a necessary one because I DO want to know when a rep has been designed based on gen dimensions... -Chief

Big time. A year or two I almost bought a MINT (used) gen 89 for about $4650 with boxes and papers. Now I can rarely find one under $6000.

Not a knock on the UPO being shown as I think it looks great, but truthfully, the gen crystal is much less reflective than the one pictured above... You might want to consider the new coating that I've found as it is as good as OEM Omega in reflectivity and a lower cost alternative to buying a gen crystal.

Make a ball of duct tape, press it onto the case back, while pushing downward on the ball turn counterclockwise. Works on all but the tightest of case backs.

"Broken wristwatches for repair and return to sender" on the customs declaration.

How did I know this shot would have a Rollie in it! Enjoy your time in the Big Apple.

Interesting project, freddy. How confident are you in your graphite seconds at 6 fix though? $700ish seems like a big expense for a sec-at-6 chrono at this point....

A and B should not have AR..... I've been wrong in the past, though.

Not too late! There are plenty to go around. PMs coming.

That's not the bezel you want and it's definitely not genuine. I assume it's from Michael? It's a good bezel for the 5513/1680 but not right for the GW. It makes for an expensive but good MBW 1680 mod as the MBW bezel teeth don't look anything like the gen. I'm not sure how the MBW 1665 bezel compares to the gen in the teeth department, though.

Wow.