Sweattdogg

I've probably seen 3-4/year here in Ohio. I've also seen some really bad fakes, so bad I almost want to ask the person to take them off.

I guess I'll chime in on this post. This is much easier said then done. Is it just me or do these posts come up about once a month? Someone comes on posts how easy it should be to make a super rep that is 99-100% accurate. Just better bridges, engravings, dials, superlume and everything else. How easy and cheap it should be. They then get everyone all pumped up about how great that would be. What is always missing in these emails is anything resembling a plan of action. I applaud V and anyone else on the board who just did it rather than talk about it. Hours of work done, commitments of money and large orders that they took a chance on. If it was as easy as these posts make it sound, then everyone would already be doing it. What we really need is less of these posts about how easy it should be and more posts with a plan of action, whether it be a specific part or an entire watch. I'm not trying to offend anyone or disagree with the idea of improving what we have, this is just my 2-cents.

If the price is the same the second one for sure. I really like it. Looks like they have put quite a bit of work into it. Thanks! Aaron

Try to polish with a Cap Cod cloth. This will give the stainless as much shine as possible and also take out any hairline scratches This should may make the steel look shiner. The steel used in most rep cases is the same grad as used by Panerai unless I'm mistaken. I know that Rolex Stainless will look a little different, because they use Stainless with a slightly different nickel content.

Congrats on the purchase. I think it sounds like a good deal. I also agree that I think the decorated movements will be worth more in the future. I think you made a wise decision in picking one up now. The prices have already been on the move and I don't think they will be coming down anytiime soon.

Oh yeah. I didn't read that. I actually preferred brushed since it is easier to brush than polish. After owning the 111 I've realized that. Otherwise many great others have been posted here. If you are willing to look used you could consider an Omega Aqua-Terra in 39mm (larger size). It would fulfill your requirements polished case, display back, dressy, but good with jeans. The best part of it is that it has the in-house co-axial movement which has not been replicated and the display back is there to show people it's the real deal. I sold one on ebay which had been factory serviced in Bienne and looked like new with box/papers/warranty for $1100 or so. That was like 2 years ago.

I agree with the SMP, but I'll also throw another one in here. The Stowa Airman is awesome. I picked up a non-logo secondhand a couple of months ago and have been wearing it a lot. I may even wear it more than my gen 111F. Mine was used with COSC and 2 straps for $750 shipped. I found it on the TZ sales corner and they go fast there. The watch is German Made and the highest quality. The movent is COSC ETA with blued screws and decorated rotor. The face comes superlumed and the crown is a large onion type. The face is very basic and this watch has deep history. Stowa along with IWC and a few others produced the actual B-Uhr design which was used during WWII. Think of it as a small Big Pilot for 5% of the price. It's only 40mm, but wears bigger.

You can probably get one in the sales section used for $100, but your gonna have to be quick, because at that price they will sell pretty quick. I'd keep checking there and find one that you like. They are all going to have different stong/weak points, but overall it is one of the best reps you can get out of the box. The 47mm was once laughably large, but once used to it, it is hard to wear smaller watches.

My 127 is being shipped back from The Zigmeister right now. I started with a 3rd Generation Eddie Lee's Best. This came with the E0117 case, great dial, sapphire crytal without any AR, and true swiss 6497 movement (incorrect bridges). I had The Zigmeister service the movent and put in the longer cannon pin about a year and half ago. The stock lume was still crap so I picked up a set of Davidsen hands and just sent it out to Zig for a full relume. I also filed down the crown lever pin to be completely flush. I'll post pics when I'm done, but I feel it should be 98% or so on the wrist. I'm happy with the swiss movement even with the wrong bridges. My next move maybe to replace the crysal at some point. Mine hasn't shattered yet (knock on wood) in 3 years of ownership and It looks good to me, but maybe it should be domed a little more. I'll snap pics and have the board get back to me on that one.

Awesome work Jay! As far as the hands go, I'd have no idea, but superlume in theory shouldn't lose its glow too much over time so I'd guess them to be Trinium.

Hey V, I think the CG's look great and are spot on. I have a 127 so unfortunately, I don't have a need for one of these yet, but between this and the new crown coming out, I'm thinking of selling my gen 111F and piecing together a custom PAM super rep.

If you are a pilot I agree with this, but otherwise the 42mm is just fine. In my opinion the Ajoesmith 03-92 is the best ever rep B&R produced. I'm lucky enough to own one and it get plenty of attention on my wrists even though it is the smaller size. Either way the best way would be to buy both!

Awesome watch and a great combo of our dealer's best parts. My only question is; how big is your wrist? That strap is long! Very nice as well BTW.

Great topic with tons of good info and discussions. I currently only have 2 reps. One has ETA that is 4 years old and the other I know to be chinese. Both run great so no worries for me.

I don't totally agree with this statement. My opinion would be that he does have nice reps, but his reps still have plenty of flaws from the get go. Since most of his watches don't take aftermarket or gen parts what you got is what you get. If you are looking to stay stock his watches are just fine. His price seems fair for the rep you have pictured.

Why should they charge less when people are on waiting lists to get their watches? They sell out of every piece they make. Overpriced? Maybe, but is a 127 (fiddy) really that much different or harder to make than a 111? A used 127 is now in the $20k range with a used 111 in the $4k range. You pay to play the game. Is it so much different then any designer product? Do True Religion jeans do anything better than a pair of Dickie jeans from Walmart? I understand what you are saying, but at the same time almost anything you look at, clothing, cars, etc will be the same way.

Correct any watch will only be worked on for free in the warranty period. Why someone is telling you that you need a full service to have a watch regulated is complete BS. Just about any watch repair shop should be able to regulate a newer watch that started in coscs back into specs both cheap and fast. They should be able to regulated most newer movements to be more accurate.

Cranium, if your Omega service cannot regulate their movements within COSC specs I'd find a new servicer or maybe an independent. Servicing every year is not part of Omega's regular service, in fact they tout that the newer co-axial movments can go 7-8 years at least between servicings. You are being told a line of crap. My answer to your first question is that I feel when buying a very high end Gen watch I want it to be COSC certified. That way out of the box it is known to perform at a certain level. Does that mean that a model using a no COSC movement will not perform as well, absolutely not! I just think it is a nice touch to a very high end watch, be in no way needed.

Thanks Avitt, I'm on TZ all the time and if he is over there then I'm not worried. I've seen some of his awesome work and that is why I decided to try him.

I'm interested to know how long it took. My watch has been gone some time now, and no one will return my emails. I'm getting a little worried. I'm used to waiting so I wanted to know anyone else's experience good or bad. I've searched and couldn't find much feedback.

Seems like it would be very expensive and not worth the cost. Visually there would be little difference and that's really what we are after.

Awesome catch Kruzer. I was always under the impression that EL's early dials were the best. Davidsen's looks pretty good in a side by side. Are you going to put this dial on that 4th Gen EL? If you could source a cheap E series movement and somehow change the number 117 on the case your watch couldn't be told from real.

Awesome dresswatch! What is the dial color? I've seen dials on ebay.

Ajoesmith has the best 42mm, which doesn't suffer from the fake hex screws. If you can get over the minor issue of the case being thicker, his is by far the best.

Love it, but it looks to clean to me. I mean like it's brand new. I'd beat it up a little bit.