Shundi

@ bossart: I like that ML I've had this on the last few days...

Very nice... what did you use for a donor watch?

Very nice, very nice...I'm always perpetually jealous of your Rolex frankens freddy!

Yeah noticed the date after I posted...can still get that deal though (It's a dealer in Natick dluddy )

Glad you've found us! I'm sure you've been reading a ton...you'll be building with the best of them in no time I'm sure!!

Exactly and a fine gesture from alligoat!

I guess my personal thought is that if you're going to do vintage you should do it to the "Ideal" vintage that is: In gen vintages, many parts are replaced over time if the owner services the watch etc so having hands that are whiter than the dial isn't necessarily "wrong" but it does take some of the vintage out of vintage....if that makes any sense. My personal preference is to get my vintages to look like they've sat in a box for the last 60 years or so or have been gently worn without having any external parts replaced... I like the uniformity.

You leave my bastard cat children out of this...you're just jealous I give my love to them instead of your freakish sub... On a more serious note: I "MAY" have a maxi dial lying around the old bench somewhere...gimme a few hours to dump this transient hobo in the woods and dance around in my mother's clothing and I'll have a look-see. I like the concept and it'll probably turn out pretty nice...

Beautiful watch..might have to pick one of these up!

I also know that there's a dealer in MA that can make a phone call and get a pretty good deal for the next month or so...

I mean....considering you have to set the date/time either way is there really that much harm in giving it a few gentle shakes or 5-10 slow turns when you let it run down? I guess if you dropped it and pegged the stem or something you could damage that and I suppose in practice it's a good idea to keep a crown screwed in for the reasons the AD mentioned but I'll wait for an expert to comment based on their experience...

Yep- what KBH said... If you post a picture we might be able to help...

SHE IS NOT! YOU TAKE THAT BACK!!

Hmm I thought the gen had it a bit further down and "in" the 6...might be the angle though, your eyes are probably better than mine...no one's going to notice without a gen piece anyways...looks great!

That and the cult habit of restoring vintage Rollies using gen parts and the abundance of Frankens/ number of Rolex service centres and authorized repair facilities that might need to sell stock, etc.

Right and when we say a member is a "noob" it just means he/she/it is new to the rep world or our forum

I'll humbly add my thoughts on this but as far as I know Breitling doesn't modify their 2824 movements other than putting "Breitling" on the rotor. Everything I've read and AD's I've spoken to say that Breitling uses a standard ETA 2824 (Chronometer Grade) and adds their logo to the rotor. With the Omega- I've found from owning gens from both brands the 2892 is an amazing movement: It's thinner, "Smoother" (I can't describe why...it just is), easy to add modules to, and in my experience keeps better time/ holds its calibration better than the 2824 series (even in Chronometer dress)... if you take the basic Omega 1120 movement Omega also adds two additional jewels and does something to reduce the rotor bearing diameter (going from memory here, feel free to correct me) for much better winding efficiency... If you get the 2500 movement you also get the Co-Axial escapement (I'm not sold on these- diehard 1120 fan...as The Zigmeister said, 1120 (2892) and 3135s run neck and neck - I feel the same way) which is pretty cool in and of itself... I personally feel Breitlings and TAGs simply aren't worth the money you pay for them... you can build a rep Breitling or TAG Aquaracer using a real ETA chronometer grade movement as per the gen and spend less money doing it...even if Omega's are based off ETA movements - they use the high end ETA movements and don't simply drop in a pre-built version with no modification. That being said: Congratulations on your new watch! Make sure to take some artsy shots of it for the weekend wristies!! Wear it well!

I feel like The Zigmeister posted something a few days ago offhand where he stated the 2892A2 sweeps smoother than the 282x and 283x series... can't confirm it though... Edit: From here:http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=77686&hl=2892+smoother

Yep as SQL pointed out in his thread the DW should be lower...still nice though!

Well if it's an ETA then it should have a small metal screw in the middle... any chance you can post macro pics of the movement so more experienced members can have a look (I'll do what I can but if its not a missing screw I'm fresh out of ideas!)

Great to have you here! Enjoy poking around and seeing how much has changed since '86

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showforum=198 It's the big thing on the front page of the forum with the title "Watch Collectors"

Wow...very impressive! Everything I've read says that these are pretty complex movements to repair and service! Good luck with your course and your "in-house" repairs!

It's interesting... my SMP glows a very deep green- almost turquoise when it's exposed to a high powered light source and then it quickly changes to a bright green

They can do this... but they can't do a Mark XVI.... right...