Toadtorrent

If you want to keep the proper chrono function operational...there doesn't look to be a whole lot of room to stick a lip for the datewheel...as you would then need another dial spacer likely to accomodate the increased height above the mod that moves the dials around. It does indeed look like you could disable the minute totalizer and bring everything up if you add the appropriate spacers to ensure the decreased height doesn't affect stem alignment or proper seating of the dial between movement and case . I think somebody needs to try this mod...but that somebody won't be me.

...this one goes to 11...

That's a great shot!

I agree...that blue/black one is fantastic!! And the Big Ingy Chrono is gorgeous. It will be a complete failure in Rep form...so to the AD we must go!! The Rep will have the troublesome secs @ 6 and that beautiful croc strap will be substituted by a cheap nylon "kevlar" look piece of junk.

Beautiful. That box is stunning too!!

Sounds clear to me R!! Let's keep you on that bench of yours turning out all those amazing beauties!!

Indeed. Congrats to both of you. Remember...post count means nothing if it's all "dribble". You guys have some quality material in there! The SD4K Tests are some of the cornerstone material of this forum. Do >3 of those...and your contribution is huge. Do as many as you've had WITH 1000 posts...and you're a star!! Congrats for keeping this forum as lively, informative and interesting as it is.

Rob...how many times do we have to tell you not to post pics of the pool-boy's car without his permission???? Just for that...you have to fly commercial airlines for 1 WHOLE week to get to your Maldives weekend house. As to rules? Buy what you want and can afford. I totally agree about diamond pricing and De Beers cartel price fixing. I had friends in the high tech sector who used to laugh at "jewell" diamonds as they were working with synthetics for industrial purposes that were MASSIVE, and completely flawless without the marketing cache that De Beers would attach to price them like "rare" gemstones. Nothing shows pricing in accordance to supply and demand like Weapons Grade Plutonium.

...PUT THE KEYBOARD DOWN AND WALK AWAY...NOBODY NEEDS TO GET HURT!!!

It's the majic silk pajamas, Man. He's like Hugh Hefner...slip on the Jammies and his creative spirit soars!!

I could be wrong on this...but my understanding is no. The movement rotation is very different and the numbers have to be printed very differently. Check out the datewheel in my tutorial on swapping the Noob movement, then do a search on the Stilty datewheel which is being printed for gen movements.

Are we talking the same movement? They usually cost 2x the 2813. Both have generally been considered solid movements from what I've read.

My Skyland from Peter was the same. It set/reset easily...kept the best time out of the box of any of my reps and had great power reserve. It still had the usual loud rotor...but it seems to charge without problem. On another note...I just received my IWC 2006 Cousteau back from the The Zigmeister Spa with the full treatment, and if you ever want to know what the potential of an A7750 can be...do this. Relative to the cost of the watch, the full treatment is expensive (The Zigmeister's rates are certainly fair and AMAZING value considering his level of knowledge, expertise, professionalism, artistic competence, etc...but it still costs more than the watch in fact...significantly more but less than going the Swiss route)...but the movement really "feels" different. It's like the difference between winding and time/date setting an Asian 21j movement watch and doing the same with a Swiss 2892. The latter is quiet and feels "solid" whereas the Asian may work fine on the wrist, but feels junky. Ziggification if not practical for all my reps, but any of the ones I care about or want in the stables for more than a few months will definitely benefit from the spa treatment.

I've said it before...and I'll say it again...you receive what you put out. You got the good stuff, because you deliver it heaps as well!!

It's easier if you go from a piece with an overlay to changing the overlay than going to a piece ADDING an overlay. If you do the latter...you will need a thicker dial spacer to allow the datewheel to turn...but not so thick that you need a taller cannon pinion, etc. I believe it's been done before...I remember reading people doing this...but dont recall the success ratio. It all depends on your deree of pickiness too. Remember...there are some who notice asymmetrical chrono pushers on a Rolex 6263...and others who when explained what this is...can barely see it (me being one of them... )...or others who add thicker springbars to make things more accurate, or who shave down bezels on lathes to make them more accurate, etc, etc...while others take their watches out the box, wear, and enjoy them...no mods...no cares...all smiles.

Always humble. You also have to know the camera, how to work with the light, etc and also have an "eye" for composition. Your images are excellent.

Do your research, and you'll find this question has been asked many times. They are not the same, but are pseudo-partners. Is one better than the other? They each have there quirks. I've used both with no problems. Do yourself a favour, and rather than rely on one person's opinion, come to the conclusion yourself and read the trade reviews on the vendors in the appropriate section, also do a search on "cartel". Some hate them...others love them. You have to decide who you want to work with. Welcome aboard...and read my Noob Guide linked in my signature to save yourself posting questions that have been asked many times before.

You could try wearing it a few days and see if the gain/loss is consistent then. Some watches are more "accurate" when worn as gain/loss when actually worn is averaged out over more positions, while in a winder, even though it's supposed to cycle through multiple positions, can sometimes not work the greatest for keeping accurate time. Sending it off to a pro is a cheap fix to have it checked and regulated. It could be the movement just needs servicing if it's over 9months old.

Depends on how much you drive it. Buying a depreciating asset in a bad economy doesn't make sense on paper...but cars are funny that way. If you do a lot of driving or really enjoy it...it's no longer just a tool...but part of "living" for you...so...buy a watch...buy a car...buy both.

That's because we pat his back all the time in the other posts. It's true though...his pics rock!

...AGAIN...

The finished product looks great. Congrats. The pic is much clearer too.

That does look great. I love relume jobs!!

Naaaah...he's just happy to see you?