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Hi here are the quality check pix of my Rolex 116613 LN. What do you think? For me everything seems to be fine. Please help yours Felix

Hi I'm a new one here in this forum. I bought a Rolex Daytona 116520. Here are the pictures of the Quality check. What do you think? I noticed the difference in color of the hands. This might only b reflection. I'm waiting for another picture. What do you think in general? thank you for your help

Hi there fellow collectors and watch lovers! Thank you for the chance to be a part of this great community!!! Collecting vintage watches and reps since ever. So I really remember the times when I bought my first reps in the 90s ... oh my, compared to todays great pieces I can say, they really changed a LOT for the better :-) My favourite brands are AP, PP & Rolex Especially vintage style reps and modded reps with a special creative touch I like a lot. Hope to get more inspiration, ideas and knowlege here in future to work more on my planned rep mod projects. (hope to have also enough time off my job for that ....:-) Have a great time! Elias

I purchased a Rolex datejust from a trusted dealer. Beautiful watch. Very happy with how it looks. (It's the larger of the two datejust sizes; I can't remember which movement t it has, but I paid about $250 a year ago. However if I wind the watch up in the morning, it lasts less than 24 hours. Typically it will stop at night (when there isn't any movement on my wrist). The next morning I need to reset the time and wind it up again. (I've had the watch for a year now, but this has been happening since day 1) Is this normal? How long should I expect the watch to 'last' without having to rewind it? Thanks for your input.

Hello there, I've received the QC pics of my new Submariner 116610LN V6s. As I'm not VERY good with doing QC's; I'd love to receive some help from the more experienced, (Rolex) Qc connoisseurs. Please chime in with your knowledge and help me out as much as you can, would be greatly appreciated. - Are there any flaws? If so, which? - Should I ask for more (detailed) pictures? - Should I Accept it? I hope to hear from you guys, I have about 16 hours to get back to them before they will send it to me. Thank you so much in advance!

Hello everyone, I am new and I am glad I joined this site. I would like to ask you if someone could help me to find a nice golden Rolex day date in a good quality. I am very exited to get this watch. I have seen very nice qualities here and I am very impressed! I am looking forward to hear from you. Contact me. Thanks. Rob

My goal was to build a 5513 that aged like it's seen the world. It's not about beating-up a watch, but making it believable that it is 50+ years old. I guess I'd call it "giving the watch it's character". It's the little details that make the difference on your wrist! I absolutely love the way the dial, hands & case turned out on this one. The dial in particular is absolutely gorgeous and the way the GILT Rolex letters reflect the light alter certain angles is unmatched by any cheap printed dial. There's a reason why a GILT dial alone on a gen Rolex adds about 30.000$ to it's price. Doing these build properly takes a lot of time, I often start work on a watch and then abandon it for weeks until I have an eureka moment about something I could do to get the look that I want on the dial, hands, case, and so on. I also lost count on how many hand-sets, bezel inserts and dials I wasted due to experimenting (so don't feel bad if you ended up damaging parts while trying something new :)). What I used: CASE: 5513 from Sead BEZEL: Phong Fat Font Insert BRACELET: Yuki 7206 Folded Bracelet MOVEMENT: Replaced w/ a low-beat 2813 DIAL: Tropical GILT dial from Vietnam HANDS: Clark's GILT Mercedes Hands CRYSTAL: Michael Young (CWP) Tropic 19 CROWN/TUBE: Athaya 700 What I did: CASE: The stock case was too round for my taste and the stock lugs slightly too thick, so I completely reshaped the case from all sides and angles (including the lugs from top, bottom & side). I re-defined & polished the bevels/chamfers several times to make them look like they would look on a watch that has been polished (but not extremely over-polished) the years. Crown guards were trimmed on the inside and re-shaped from the outside. After getting the case in the correct shape, I aged it & polished it several times over and over to give it character. Last but not least, I drilled the tube hold, tapped new threads and drilled a cut a countersink to install the 700 tube properly (without the countersink, the tube and as a result the crown will stick out too far and look hideous). DIAL: I aged the lume of the gilt dial & gave it a nice patina as I'd expect it on a watch that has gone so tropical. I also aged the dial itself a little to give it some patina that goes well with the tropical turned brown color - not full-blown radium dust like I did on another build recently (since this represents a tritium watch), but a little to make it believable that there was some radioactive substance, sun-light and other corroding factors present. HANDS: I used several steps involving different mixtures made of various minerals & chemicals and even soft-drinks to get this look that resembled old gilt tritium hands. BRACELET: The 7206 bracelet from Yuki looked like it was brand new, especially the inside of the bracelet (which was brushed) bugged me, since I own a few genuine folded rolex bracelets and a bracelet this old shouldn't be brushed on the inside anymore - even if has been restored at some point. I aged & polished the inside of the Yuki bracelet to mimic the look of my well-taken-care-off gen folded bracelets. BEZEL: It's a phong fat font insert that was aged, browned, re-coated and pressure-fit into the the bezel ring. - Note about my Vintage Builds: I often receive PMs from members asking me if I could build a specific watch for them, but I declined all of these requests for the reason I mentioned earlier - doing these vintage builds properly takes time and passion for the work. I don't think you can do this on a "contract basis". I end up selling many of my watches, but even if I start building something with the intention of selling it later-on, I build each one of them as if I'd build them for myself. So if you like some of the watches I build so much that you want one, I appreciate the trust and I'm definitely flattered, but I'd ask you to not PM me and ask me to build a specific watch for you. I'll put up whatever I decide to sell in the Sales Section. Eye-candy:

The second just stopped. Crown, hands and date are all smooth. Rotor spins quietly as well. No amount of winding and case tapping revive it. What are my options to repair or swap out the movement? This is a v6s hulk.

Hi Gents, When I first got myself in the RepWorld, it was mainly related to early Bond Movies: I was looking for - as many of us - to replicate Connery/Broccoli famous wristwatch. From that time, my taste evolved and I ended with one 6200 and one 6538. But that's not the point here. Here are two detailed screenshots I took from Goldfinger and Thunderball BR-rip, we all know about: From what I can see, this is not - as some of us use to believe - a Gilt Dial & Hand Set but rather a Service Dial (white and printed) and a Silver Hand Set. Is that it, or am I missing something here ? That would be the question I'm asking you, as I never really find a good answer/explanation to that... question

As I type this, Aurel Bacs and his merry men are wrapping up their weekend of auctions in Geneva, and most likely patting themselves on the back for a "job well done". At least, in their eyes anyways. (100% sales totaling over $25M on the first day alone. Sheesh...) Saturday's chrono-only "Start. Stop. Reset" auction produced some seriously crazy numbers, watches hammering at prices never seen before: a mere FIVE Daytons hammered in for a total north of $7.5 MILLION. That's right, millions. For five watches. In fact, only one vintage Daytona on the block hammered for less than six figures yesterday, so it doesn't seem like the Daytona bubble is bursting anytime soon. There's was the Paul Newman "Sotto" coming in at right under $2M: Or the (gorgeous) 6239 "Medical" and its silver dial with blue Pulsations scale: Or the star of yesterday's auction, a Rolex Split Seconds chronograph from the 40's, realizing almost $2.5M: Make no mistake, these are stunning, amazing timepieces, but the prices at auction are getting to the point of being almost laughably outrageous, even to the uber-rich collectors to whom these auctions cater to. To wit, a 5500 Explorer hammered in this morning's second auction for over $20K: Sheesh. I might need to take my Explorer 5500 build a little more seriously I guess hahahaha... To be fair, I think Phillips didn't disappoint with some of its more interesting finds, both Rolex and a plethora of lesser-known (yet still amazing) chronos from the 40's, 50's, and 60's (It's totally worth it to download the Phillips app and look through the hi-res catalog pictures of all the lots. They did an outstanding job photographing the auction, no question). For Rolex, there were some lesser-seen rarities like a gold cased 6238, a rarely seen (and mint!) all gold 6542 GMT with its dauphine hands and salmon-hued dial (just look at that coin edge bezel and all-red Bakelite insert too!) and a two-tone 1675 with the sharpest insert I've ever seen: Lest we forget the black dial triple calendar Moonphase 8171 'Stelline' that's sure to break the million dollar mark later today as well: Personally though, and as much as I love vintage Tudor and Rolex sports models, my absolute favorite of the weekend was neither Rolex nor Tudor (although I was salivating over the Tudor Home Plate that sold on Saturday. Be still my heart...). It was an absolutely STUNNING Longines fly-back chrono that hammered in at a "humble" (LOL) $75K: Amazing, right? Bears a striking resemblance to the Patek that sold for TEN TIMES that amount a few lots later too, doesn't it? Hmmm... (I know I'm late to the party, but it might be high time to start looking at collecting Longines haha...) And the bonus awesome lot from today for me was one of the coolest Patek Calatravas maybe ever. A possible "piece unique" with a 3-6-9 "Explorer" dial. Classy. And a steal at the estimated $120-180K! I just think this thing is so, so cool: I'd be curious to see what others here thought about this weekend's auctions. In my humble opinion, it was a surprisingly strong showing considering the economic climate in the certain parts of the world right now; because of my day job, I know the rare wine market at least has taken a massive hit lately due to the economic downturn in China and the barrel price of crude in the Middle East, so it's very interesting to see million-dollar Daytonas literally fly off the block and 100% sale results from the likes of Phillips (it's looking like only 2-3% of the lots will have hammered for below pre-sale estimate) and their mega-auctions, with no signs of depreciation or slowing sales on the horizon either it seems. I wonder, how many of us here on the forums may be looking at the V72-powered Phong 6263s and 6239s in a very different light after this weekend...

Hey all, I'm exploring a Big Crown build. This will be a first. I understand that not all movements fit into the case properly, and therefore you either need the right movement or the proper adapter. That said, when exploring Yuki's store, I saw that the dials said " 6538 Dial adapted for ETA " I noticed this dial was 28mm vs 27 mm on the standard dial for the case. My question is....what does the dial have to do with the movement? Also, if the case is a certain size...how can a bigger dial work? Anyway, I'm sure this question shows my ignorance. Can anyone explain whether the dial matters vs movement? why? Thank you all for your watch wisdom.

Hi all, I am after the white/grey dial YM and need some advise. I see a lot of reviews about the following: 1. TC YM 2. Sean 3. BK Which one is the best? Its all very confusing. I have done my research but still dont have the answers. TC perhaps has the most good reviews but then there is the issue of long waiting time. Please give me one option and how to buy it. Also where is BK's website? Thanks much in advance. John

Just wanted to fire up a thread on a 6541 Milgauss build as I get started with it and progress through it. Wanted to share some initial QC pics of the dial and case, etc. Literally all the components of the build is en route to me and needed parts start showing up first thing next week... (Some inspiration for the build:) Dammit Slay... A genuine 6541 Milgauss is an extremely rare bird indeed with auction estimated well into the six figures if and when they even do pop up on the auction block. Accordingly, a 6541 build of your own can get EXTREMELY expensive. Maybe not a quarter mil like a gen, but still... There are few case options out there for vintage Milgauss builds and what is out there is pricey. More with this build than some others perhaps, but the case, as much as the dial, makes or breaks this project. The case is especially important because of the unique internal construction of its Farraday cage shielding the movement from potentially harmful magnetic fields. Aside from the frankly terrible budget (Cartel?) out-of-the-box versions of the 6541 that are floating around, you're left with what appears to be pretty much just two (albeit two very good) case set options: Phong or MQ. And if you've ever looked into the case prices of either, you start to understand why so few people endeavor upon these builds - Minh Q's case comes in at around $1250 and Phong's around $1800(!) iirc. So before you even start looking for dials you're already in the hole for over a grover. Damn... Now, I'm not one to skimp on my builds, but this was already staring to look like a money pit even if this is essentially a mid-shelf "budget" version of a Milgauss build LOL. So I put the idea of the build on the back burner for a while and turned my attention back to the gen-dialed 1016 build I'm working on. That is until I saw Slay's sales post with his absolutely STUNNING 6541 franken build. Slay spared no expense, MQ case and dial, gen 1030 movement, gen hands, the works... My jaw hit the ground. It was damn near perfect and now I had to build one. So I re-started my search and began weighing my case and dial options in earnest once again. Dial As luck would have it, a "new" guy had popped up on Instagram about 6 months ago peddling high end rep dials and a few cases, Tonnywatches. I started following him and was pretty impressed with the quality of the dials he was posting; "Vietnam" dials that were, to my eye anyways, on par with or very close in quality (maybe even the same?) to the dials Minh Q offers (some of the better aftermarket dials for many builds imho), but at less than half the price in some instances. I'm always weary of new sellers (who isn't, right?) but his 6541 dial looked an awful lot like MQ's and it cost about 40% of what the MQ dial costs so I said what the hell and pulled the trigger and purchased one. Looks pretty good to me; the coroner is so-so, but I have a gen white gold dial coronet to replace that one, and I'm might give those lume plots a very understated aging/re-lume. Love the fade on the reddish-pink Milgauss text and the SCOC printing/spacing looks pretty good compared to reference photos of gen dials. Certainly not "perfect" in any sense of the word, but pretty good all things considered and again looks almost identical to the $750 MQ dial. The printing is a little heavy handed and they didn't get the "crippled" R in Perpetual right amongst other minute details, but you really can't beat it for the price. Hands Only one really strong option imho for the 6541's characteristic thunderbolt seconds hand and that's Michael Young at CWP. Looks great and it's long enough to extend into the dial's minute track as per gen. The hour and minute hands, however, are the leaf-shaped hand type with the lume and I want to fit a set of the no lume all-metal "leaf" hands that were also fitted to the 6541. Luckily for me, Offrei offers the near-exact same style hands in an array of sizes and fit for ETA so they'll be compatible with my movement choice and I can get the lengths just right (like a 12.5-13mm minute hand extending into the track like the seconds hand). I'm going to remove the red paint from the thunderbolt tip and age the hands with some sulfur, acids, and some light abrasives. The below reference photo of a gen shows the style, length and aging of the hands I'm going for: Since I'm using an ETA movement (more on that in a minute) I won't have to broach the hands either (which I have an atrocious track record with). Might have been the easiest sourcing yet: a quick email exchange with Michael, payment sent and hands on their way in a matter of days. Ordered a spattering of differently sized and shaped leaf hands from Offrei. They were so cheap I was able to buy enough that I'll be able to make sure I get the aged look correct and possibly file down a larger sizes minute hand to match the length of the CWP thunderbolt. Case When I was going back and forth with Tonny about the dial, I happened to dig a little bit deeper into his Instagram and saw that he actually had a 6541 case set he was offering mixed in amongst the photos of his various small crown, big crown, etc. cases. It looked pretty good in the photo he posted and I already had some experience with one of his 5508 case sets that I had purchased for a friend of mine, so I knew the quality was pretty good and that, generally speaking, his cases were pretty gen-spec. For sure, some modifications would have to be done (lug bevels need some tlc for instance), but again the price was right especially considering the case construction had the correct Farraday cage that is central to getting this build right. All said, case set and dial would cost me less than half of what just a Phong case set would've cost me. So again, I pulled the trigger and asked Tonny for some quick QC pics before making my purchase: (Photo from Tonnywatches Instagram:) (QC photos:) You get the idea... Pretty good if you ask me, but still much work to be done. The dial/cage construction is correct and I'm comfortable re-doing the perlage on the Farraday cage back. The only thing not pictures (which is, in fact, included with the case) is the cross-shaped metal tension "spring" that seats into the inside of the case back and keeps the cage snugly sandwiched together around the movement protecting it from magnetic field variations (well, in theory anyways haha). Other than that, I'll weigh my options on having the mid case re-shaped/thinned and maybe re-do the lug bevels. Should make a good base though for sure... Bezel, Insert, Crown, etc. Some of the finer details of the case set have yet to be seen since I'm still waiting on it to show up from Tonny, but there are some modifications that are inevitable: Gen crown is an easy one,; already have a few various 6mm gen crowns in the parts drawer and a gen 602 tube which are way less problematic than installing a 600 tube which would have been "more" correct for a 6541. No question, a 602 would've been installed during a service however, and requires no broaching/modification prior to install. I picked up a gen T-16 beveled service crystal, and as luck would have it, also happen to have an aftermarket domed T-16 from Phong sitting gathering dust. I love the look of the Milgauss with its domed crystal, but much prefer the practicality of the lower-profile beveled service so it'll be nice to have both should I ever decide to switch between one or the other. The insert that comes with the Tonny case is suspect and I had already acquired a Phong 6541 insert before I got the case, so I'm going to give the Tonny insert some heavy aging for a more worn-in/beat up look for the watch should I ever want it. The Phong insert is pretty spot on; the only thing I might do to it is bleach out the red triangle a little bit and give it a good fade. The bezel ring looks pretty suspect in the QC pictures as well, but I'll have to wait to have it in hand before I can see if it's up to snuff with the shape of the coin edge or if I'll be able to properly age it to give it an older, polished worn-in look. Tonny assured me its plates brass so I'll be able to sand/age/tarnish/polish the bezel and take it down to the brass in what I feel is a more appropriate look for a half-century old watch. If the bezel construction or shape isn't good enough however, I'll just buy one from MQ as I feel his is just a tiny bit better than the one Phong offers and both are pretty solid stand-ins for the genuine article. Yet again neither option is cheap (see a theme developing here?), so I'm hoping the Tonny bezel passes muster. The case should be here in a week so I'll know for certain then. The engravings also look a little iffy in the QC photos, and if they're too are not good enough then hopefully I can send the mid and back to JMB to be re-done. Plenty of bracelet options as I've got both an NDT and Yuki 7206 waiting in the wings and picked up this really nice NOS StyleCraft 20mm tropic rubber strap that I think will look good on either my 1016 or the 6541 for a more subdued look that's still somewhat substantial and fitting for the era of the watch to a certain degree: Movement As you can see, I've already got a decent amount invested into this build, and as nice as it might be to put a cal. 1030 into a build like this, it just doesn't seem all that practical to me because: a) the Farraday cage covers the movement so you don't see it, b ) sourcing parts and servicing a 1030 movement is becoming increasingly difficult and cost prohibitive, and c) I plan on wearing this watch. A lot. And the ETA 2782 I'm using is far more rough & tumble-ready than the 1030. I found a brand new NOS watch with a 2782 that had been sitting untouched and unused in storage for the last few decades. It's in really great shape, and after a good cleaning and oiling, will run like a dream. The 2782 has a nice low beat rate, good stem height, good canon pinion height, and the same Kif shock absorbers Rolex would later use in its 1500-series movements so it should be able to handle a fair amount of wear and tear. I got a Yuki 1030 ETA movement ring to make it fit in the case correctly, and one of the only internal modifications I'll need to do is notch out the middle ring of the Farraday cage so the movement clamps can seat the movement in the case properly. The Farraday cage is 3 parts: the interior case back, the middle ring section with a small opening for the winding stem, and the dial (the bottom side of which "completes" the cage by capping over the movement and lining up flush with the middle ring section. Like the Phong dial and cage, the dial has no feet so as long as I can get the cage pieces to line up properly and get the movement with the Yuki adapter seated firmly in the cage install should be relatively painless. All things considered, once I have all the pieces in front of me the assembly will go rather quickly hopefully. I'll update this thread as o go along with each part of the build so hopefully I can glean some insight from others and maybe be the "guinea pig" with one of these Tonny cases (and dial for that matter). Stay tuned...

I'm considering Trusty's vintage Milgauss ref 1019. I've been researching by looking online at Gens. Its no easy task, however. For one, it seems like there are multiple dials. Same silver dial and colors but different font widths and sizes. In addition, Trusty's Quality shots seem to have different font sizes than the website posting. You all have more experience and a more trained eye. What are your thoughts on this rep vs the gen? http://imgur.com/a/76e9a http://www.ttw8488.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_103&products_id=623

Hi everyone! I'm quite new to the forums and I wasn't sure if this was the correct place to post this. Anyway, I'm looking for some help from some reputable members on here who can guide me in the correct direction. I'm looking for a replica Rolex Submariner. So far I've narrowed it down to these three: http://www.intime.co/rollie/2725-submariner-116610-lv-black-ceramic-v2s-1-1-jf-best-edition.html http://www.intime.co/rollie/2637-2016-submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v6s-sa3135-1-1-noob-best-edition-.html http://www.intime.co/rollie/2640-2016-submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v6s-a2836-1-1-noob-best-edition-.html Not sure which is better though. They obviously have slight differences but I would like to ask someone who has experience with some of these particular models. Also if there is better websites out there that offer a better price. Thanks everyone and have a good day!

Hello guys im new here and i need some advise or the opinion from you experts out there. I bought a DSSD Blue from a Guy that sells Rep's here in my country and for obvious reasons he wont tell me who or from where he bought it, all i want to know if it is a good rep, older version, piece of crap or if there is anything i can do to make it better. I have never seen the real one in person so i dont even want to use it because im blind here. Below are some pics of the what from different angles and a couple of it side by side of a Gen GMT Batman i own for you guys to compare the loome. Thank you in advance for your help and sorry for the bad pictures.

Hi guys, Today I had the time to make a couple of pictures of my new Rolex Submariner 114060. Enjoy!

I just came across this on eBay and wondering what you guys think. Seller states gen dial but may be refinished since the lume glows. Says the hands glow as well. Pearl is way off but insert looks pretty well aged so that's puzzling to me. The case looks interesting too. The crown guards look great in my humble opinion, very light wear but the chamfered edges look non existent. I'm no expert but it could be a phong case or something. So is this a high end genstein? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLEX-VINTAGE-SUBMARINER-S-STEEL-REF-5512-SOLD-FOR-PARTS-WITH-NO-RESERVE-LOOK/191838659407?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36332%26meid%3Db7eee8ffcb794fab949b410fc92a9a2e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D401097357084

Hello Guys Just a quick review for Perfect Clone.. After been loyal to Puretime for more than four years; I have decided to place an order with Perfect Clone (Joshua). Although I never dealt with Perfect Clone before so I was bit anxious but decided to go with cheap option. I have placed an order thorough website and initially ask Joshua whether the watch I wanted was in stock or not. The watch was in stock and finally placed an order. Payment method was PayPal and it was pretty straightforward. After making a payment I have received QC pic within two days. Although Joshua insister not to include QC pics on any forum for many reason. Today I have finally received my watch. After validating the QC pics I have received my watch in 7 days including weekends. The potage was free and I didn’t pay any extra apart from the price listed on website. I have paid £130 (I am based in UK ) including postage for following watch. http://www.pf-818.com/-p-10629.html Although I have an issue with watch where GMT hand doesn’t move with time and it became standstill. All other hands are working fine. I have sent email to Joshua already so lets wait and see. Meanwhile you enjoy the pics. Thank you guys

I'm looking for a Rolex Day date or Day date 2 , in the stainless steel preferably with the diamond hour markers - just wondering whether anybody on here has any advice or can point me in the right direction. I have placed an order on Puretime but they sell the watch for 260 GBP yet supply no extra links, I haven't paid yet as they haven't answered my email yet. Any help would be much appreciated guys

Hey guys! I'm sorry but I have been searching the various fora and not finding an answer. I'm trying to replace the T27 on my MBW with a Clark T39. I was able to remove the crystal retaining ring but the crystal would't come out just by pulling. So then I removed the movement and tried to apply pressure from inside with my thumbs but not a single budge. Tried to pry it up from the sides but couldn't get anything underneath it. What else can I try?

I just purchased this service set of a 1680 insert and dial. The dial looks a little different from what I expected. The surface of the dial kind of reminds me of the Yuki I just bought. Not as grainy as I expected. The white print definitely looks much better then Yuki though, much finer. The seller did not state this as a refinished dial, just as a service dial that had possibly been relumed. What do you guys think? Did I get a legit dial? The insert looks 100% gen service insert to me.

At this point I have only installed the Yuki dial, hands and blue insert. The hands I aged with a light scuffing from 3000 grit sandpaper and espresso foam. I chose a dark blue insert from Yuki because the inspiration for this watch was a gen that's bezel faded to a light blue. Without knowing what the base color was for the aftermarket inserts, I decided to get this blue insert and fade it to see if it can work. I bleached it for about 30 min, buffed with 5000 grit sandpaper and then spread nearly dry espresso around it to offset the blue and add a little vintage grime. That's the main thing I would like to know you're opinion on. Does the blue look legitimately like a faded, once black insert or does it just look plain blue? I know the insert is a lighter shade then the reference picture but that was the point where I felt it started loosing that obvious blue look. Reference gen 5513 Gilt My MBW

I received my gen 703 crown today from eBay. Unfortunately for @themannier, myself or anyone else with high hopes, the gen 703 crown will not fit on the stock MBW tube, nor on the Athaya tube. The thread is wider then both. Even though the Athaya tube is wider then the MBW, it still isn't quite wide enough. This is all true unless I managed to get an incorrect crown but I don't believe that is the case. Look wise though IMO the Athaya from the outside is very close to the gen crown and I think it is a suitable part to use in place of a gen. I think it's best to save the $100+ to be spent in a better way on your build. Here are some comparison pictures: Athena Tube (left with crown) vs MBW (right no caseback) Athaya Crown MBW Crown Gen 703 MBW with stem vs Gen Athaya with stem vs Gen Athaya (left), Gen, MBW (right)