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Hi all, Bought this from ebay as gen Swiss Eta 7750 but there are no eta 7750 mark on the movement, instead there is C and 25 signs. For me it looks like some clone. Any possibility that this is gen eta 7750 ? Thanks for your opinions.

I'm going to buy a Chrono Watch... I'm aware that the 7750 clone with seconds @ 12 is prone to fault/issues What about the more traditional 6-9-12 or 3-6-9 counters with continous seconds @ 9? (talking about asian 7750 clone of course) Thank you.

I'm thinking about rolex daytona recently. What is your opinion on A7750 with working chronos? I know it's 2,5mm thicker than a gen. My PAM is 14mm and it's already massive not to mention smaller rollie. To be honest new 13mm daytona made of 904 looks really amazing! I know it has frozen chronos due to 4130 but it's quite slim. What's your opinion on this one? I'd like to hear from someone with 7750 daytona Thanks!

I'm about to receive a Chronograph Planet Ocean 45.5mm. It uses the a7750 movement, which as I read is supposed only to look as the real thing, not to function as the real thing. People were writing that these movements came dusty and oily and required like $100-200 servicing, to function well for a year or so. I've also read that there were variations like 7750a/b and some others, I don't really remember, some were better, some were not. But what I clearly remember all this information was posted back in 2006-2011 (besides a reply to another thread, some months ago, which mentioned I shouldn't really use the chronograph often). Still, since it's 2017 now and a lot of time has passed, I'm interested, did anything change? Are these movements more reliable? I payed $50 for servicing and waterproofing (looks 3 times cheaper than it was in 2006), would this mean the watch will function properly for at least a few years? And is there a chance I can get the chronograph used multiple times a day (I like timing things, a lot) and not breaking the movement or what else happens there inside ? Thanks in advance.

Easy fix or replace? thank you in advance

I am on the verge purchasing a dw daytona but it has a eta 7753. I noticed its noticeably thicker. Is this the case? Does the 7753 need a thicker caseback? does anyone have any profile shots of their 7750 or 7753 builds? Looking to buy a DW with ETA or A7750 if you are looking to sell

Hello my beloved APers, got my first AP and with it, the infamous problem with the sec@12 movement So now I'm calling out to you guys to please enlighten me with a detailed description of what the Jewel Mod actually is. I have no intimate knowledge of watch movements, but I do see an advantage here, and I have very good reasons to ask such an extensive question, so please bear with me: My watch is at my local watchmaker, getting serviced soon. Since he is replica-friendly and is an AD for many swiss watchmaking brands like Breitling, Longines, Cartier, he (and his team of 5 watchmakers, i think) seems to be quite the professional. Now the advantage that I see in this situation: "Why not try and ask him whether he can pull off a jewel mod?" I figured it neither would hurt nor would it cost anything to ask, plus it would be a great advantage to all of those that are thinking of doing the jewel mod or those still to encounter the sec@12 problem, to know that there is yet another watchmaker capable to do it. Now to the problem: I have only a very vague and faint idea of what the problems with the sec@12 movement is, the most frequently used word being "!!!!!!!FRICTION!!!!!" to describe it. And something with "gears". -Yes, I'll glady take the smirks and grunts those of your reading this, because I myself am amused about how little I know about the watch i spent 500$+ for. For me to be able to ask him, therefore, I would like to ask you if you guys could explain to me what, exactly, the problem is, and what, exactly, the jewel mod is and does. For those of you patient enough to answer this question, I am very thankful And for those that are tired of seeing this topic AGAIN, I am very sorry!

Hi all, To start off, im not quite sure if this post belongs in this subforum...please bear with me, I know this topic has been chewed through quite thoroughly, but it always feels better and is more of a relief when one's own question is answered directly. I have a A7750 chrono (standard; secs @ 9) for around 2 months now, don't wear it all day/everyday. Whilst on a day i dont wear it, and the time is still running, i tend to hand wind it 10-20 rounds at night, just to keep it going and not have to worry about when i can set the date/time if it stops, you know, the whole 9 yards. When i Notice that it has stopped, i hand-wind it approx. 50 rounds (never feel any resistance). I wouldnt say that i wind it aggressively, but not quite slow either. On days i wear the watch, which is 2-3 times a week, i do not wind, since i rely on the rotor to do its job. Now i have read a few articles/posts, saying that fast and aggrssive winding can cause "teeth" of a certain wheel inside the movement to grind down, or even break off. Source: http://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?showtopic=1613 So, what do the movement experts say? 2 months of the aforementioned use- have I already damaged the movement? If so, how do i notice it, without having to open the caseback (since i dont have the necessary tools for that )? And what is the runtime of a fully wound 7750? Feel free to call me paranoid- at least then i know that all is well Much appreciation for any comments/help/ideas!

Hi guys, Excuse me if my question sound a bit noobish, Does the ETA date disc of a 7750 is the same (size,and fitting) as the 7753 ? I'm asking this becuase i'm looking for a date disc for ETA7753 and can see only for 7750 movments. Thanks, Dvir

I bought a Transocean Chrono with a quartz movement a few months back. Basically I want to know if I could swap out the quartz movement for an A7750. Possible or not?

Hi Guys, I am fairly new to the forum, but ya'll have inspired me to build a franken PAM 104. I've started with an H-factory 1:1 104 rep with the A7750 movement. So far, I've purchased: - gen alligator strap - gen deployment buckle - gen dial So, I have two questions I was hoping someone might be so kind to help me with: 1) Who should I use state-side to help me with service and assembly? 2) Should I put in a Swiss ETA 7750 movement? And if so, do I go with the 17 or 25 jewels? Thanks in advance for the advice!

After reading in this thread Old School Rolex Daytona ETA 7750 of a ETA 7750 powered Daytona, with Sec@6 for sale, it got me thinking about this mentioned module that gears the Sec@6. Now obviously seeing as the above Daytona has been running flawlessly for several years, its clear this module is actually a success over the metal to metal gearing of the Asian Sec@6 gearing set up. I am aware that some modders can add jewels to the Asian to reduce friction, but what about recreating this module in this ETA 7750? I assume that if a modder, or watchmaker wishes to take on this challenge, then they would actually need to dissect this ETA7750 to find out how exactly it works? It's this what got me to the following questions.. 1. Does anyone know the Origin of this Module for Sec@6 apart from some guy in Taiwan? 2. Are there any Watchmakers out there familiar with this module, and fancy reproducing a few? 3. If yes to 2, please post in this thread and let us all know I am positive many members who would love a Daytona with Sec@6 would be very interested in this, as the current Asian Sec@6 issues is a big put off, and prevents us from enjoying a reliable Sec@6 Daytona. Looking forward to any input/advice etc.

Good people of RWG, I have recently been told that the movement in my IWC Top Gun (Asian Valjoux 7750) is knackered and needs replacing. Problems began when the watch stopped (for no reason) while on the watch winder; to overcome this I started manually handwinding the movement … This worked OK for a few weeks, until one day (whilst hand winding) the noise and feeling inside (sorry for lack of technical terminology) went from a pleasant smooth feel, to a nasty internal ‘crunching’. At this point it was game over … into the repairers, where I was handed the bad news. The joys of rep ownership eh? Boo! So, I’ve bitten the bullet, and decided to go ahead with a brand new movement, fully serviced and pressure tested. What I now need to know is when the watch is returned to me, how I can prevent a similar situation occurring in the future? I have heard all sorts of stuff & frankly, I don’t know what to believe (e.g. don’t change the day / date between the hours of 10-2; avoid sudden ‘jerky’ wrist movements (ha, ha!); don’t use the chrono function (which seems weird to me, as surely that’s one of the joys of chrono ownership!) etc etc.) In short, (and I have read previous posts on the subject) … What’s the score when it comes to 7750’s? Should they be handled like spider webs or are they as robust as regular (non chrono movements)? Lets set the record straight once and for all. Look forward to hearing your comments and as always, many thanks in advance. rclough