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Found 11 results

  1. http://bestreplica.sr/ This website has to be a huge rip off, right? $1,249 price points, claims that jewelers can't tell the difference. Perfectly interchangable parts. The website has a great deal of information. This has to be a scam right? OK, my sincerest apologies....I fumbled the search...it seems like this place has been discussed....that said, there website is a wonderful work of [censored]
  2. So I was trying to do some research the past few days, I came to the conclusion, I should probably ask the pros. How does the "Swiss Sellita SW 240 26J" hold up to the "Asian 2836-2 25J"? I am curious to know from a longevity perspective not accuracy. This is the comparison info I have: SW 200 = ETA 2824 SW 220 = ETA 2834 SW 240 = ETA 2836 SW 300 = ETA 2892 SW 500 = ETA/Valjoux 7750 Brands that already use Sellita movements Oris Meistersinger NivrelLimesInvictaSteinhartOcean7BathysSchaumburgArctosNauticfishMarcelloCChase Durer
  3. I would like to buy a swiss rolex daytona in stainless steel with a white face. Anyone know any trustworthy sites from experience that would sell them? I specifically need swiss movement
  4. from Hodinkee: Key details like the placement of subdials, calendar apertures, and tachymeter all remain the same. One of the more notable updates is to the case size: at 42mm, the new model is substantially larger than its more modestly-sized predecessor, which clocked in at 38mm. Viewable through a sapphire case back, the Calibre 410 runs at 5 Hz with 390 components powering three distinct functions in addition to basic time keeping. The aforementioned column-wheel chronograph function uses two subdials, a 30-minute register at 3 o’clock as well as a 12-hour register at 6 o’clock. A sub-seconds dial sits at 9 o’clock as well. The calendar function includes day, month, and date. The day aperture is placed at 10 o’clock, the month at 2 o’clock, and the date between 4 and 5 o’clock. Having the calendar apertures spread out in this way does detract a bit from the overall readability of the dial. $11,000.
  5. I wore this watch everyday about a month after receiving it before I decided to write a review to make sure that everything was in working order and will be able to work in the long run. I placed an order for the Ultimate Planet Ocean 42mm with the Swiss 2824 movement from Andrew at Trusty Time back in late December and received it before Christmas (Most recent link is here). I loved my gen Midsized Omega Seamaster Professional, but the size of the watch (at 36mm case diameter) started to bother me, as I wanted a watch that was more substantial in weight and presence on the wrist. However, the one I got from Andrew had problems from the beginning with the crown and tube not screwing down (one turn or less to release) and the movement not working correctly (eventually stopped working all together). When it completely stopped working, I emailed Andrew and explained to him my situation and agreed to have it repaired and I shipped my watch back to him on December 27. It was a few weeks into the mailing process that I realized that it takes a long turnaround time thanks to the mailing system in China after it leaves the US (explained in this post here). Eventually, after a bunch of emails throughout the months I get an email from Andrew with a picture of the repaired watch on a movement tester and a picture of the watch with the EMS label with my adress on it, it was shipped on April 20 and was delivered to my home on the 27. In the return box, I received my repaired/replaced watch, a dial (Replaced? I'm not sure), and a frame of the ETA movement. My impressions of the repaired UPO is that it is leaps and bounds better than the one originally sent to me in December. The movement winds well and can be wound by the wrist movements (unlike the one I got originally); additionally the crown/tube is much improved, it takes a good 4~5ish turns to completely unscrew it to the first position (for winding) and screwing it down (bonus is that the feet of the logo sits almost parallel to the wrist when screwed down or point down into the wrist for clarification). The materials of the bracelet, case, and crystal are very good and is almost feels gen (as I own a Seamaster Professional as a rough reference for comparison, as they are two different watches in the Seamaster lineup). The deployment clasp is good, whether or not the engravings is correct is ignorance on my part and the diver's extension works but is fussy when you want to close it back up. The only real aesthetic inaccuracies that someone can really call me out on are the bezel pearl (which isn't centered in the triangle) and that the raised Omega logo sits a tad too low above the Omega lettering on the dial (which is a bit less noticeable). The AR (anti-reflective) coating is present and often appears blue, but in certain lighting conditions will show the correct purple color; additionally the AR coating is easily prone to scratches when the crystal brushes up with solid objects (the repaired watch I got back had a few hard to notice scratches if you looked at them at an angle and a L shaped scratch on the bezel; I'm not too worried about those as it adds character to the watch and I'm more than glad that it works). The ETA 2824 movement is actually what Omega uses as the base movement of their 2500 caliber movements for the gen version of this watch (in which they modify this movement with George Daniels Co-Axial escapement); however, the Co-Axial escapement results in an irregular 7 beats per second as opposed to 8 on most automatically wound watches (like older Omegas and most modern Rolexes). This ETA 2824 movement doesn't suffer that lower beat rate (as this movement more than likely does not have the Co-Axial escapement installed) and has a nice smooth sweep and is rather robust which should handle a good amount of time without service; also, this particular movement keeps time really well, my aged gen Seamaster Professional keeps the time well as I wear it everyday and was serviced a few years back by Omega). The lume is were it shows a bit of weakness, it's not as bright as my gen when charged under the same light source for the same amount of time; the weak lume is the most apparent on the hands of the watch as they are dimly when charged under a light source. However, fluorescent light seems to charge it well as well as natural light, LED light doesn't like to mesh with the lume from what I observed when I used my phone's LED camera flash (in flashlight mode) to charge the lume. This watch fooled my uncle who loves Omegas and was shocked when I told him that it cost only $300 and change and that it was a rep. Needless to say he was rather impressed and wanted one for himself. To conclude this review, besides the small aesthetic inaccuracies and the lume, it is a rep that is definitely worth owning that is really close to the gen in many ways; as well as to commend Andrew for his patience and service for my watch during the repair process. Definitely let him know if there is something bothering you during the QC pic phase all the way to when something happens to it. My plan for my next rep is that I want is a Rolex Submariner in either the non-ceramic (like the D or Z serials without holes in the case and without the rehaut engravings) or the ceramic version (as long as it's accurate). I got a cheap Canal Street sub rep in New York as a souvenir but I want to have something like my UPO or gen that I can rock daily. I really wished I could of gotten the BK TW sub before he sold out, but I am looking at the TC sub and a ceramic sub from Andrew (since searching the forums didn't yield much on the Ultimate sub from TT, ROLSUB0017). That's my plan and my review, thank you for reading.
  6. Hello all, I understand this must be a variation on the classic " Best Sub" Question, however, I am trying to find a good, if not the best out there, Rolex Red Sub, Vintage 1680. Have any of you had any luck? Any suggestions or direction would be a huge help. Btw, I am noticing a big flaw on some are the silver/metallic date roll....weird...so I am trying to avoid that. Thanks all in advance!
  7. Hi guys, just received a watch, movement not working. I am able to make it rotate via the crown but that's all. I am so disappointed. Any suggestions to buy from Italy at all? Thanks
  8. After reading in this thread Old School Rolex Daytona ETA 7750 of a ETA 7750 powered Daytona, with Sec@6 for sale, it got me thinking about this mentioned module that gears the Sec@6. Now obviously seeing as the above Daytona has been running flawlessly for several years, its clear this module is actually a success over the metal to metal gearing of the Asian Sec@6 gearing set up. I am aware that some modders can add jewels to the Asian to reduce friction, but what about recreating this module in this ETA 7750? I assume that if a modder, or watchmaker wishes to take on this challenge, then they would actually need to dissect this ETA7750 to find out how exactly it works? It's this what got me to the following questions.. 1. Does anyone know the Origin of this Module for Sec@6 apart from some guy in Taiwan? 2. Are there any Watchmakers out there familiar with this module, and fancy reproducing a few? 3. If yes to 2, please post in this thread and let us all know I am positive many members who would love a Daytona with Sec@6 would be very interested in this, as the current Asian Sec@6 issues is a big put off, and prevents us from enjoying a reliable Sec@6 Daytona. Looking forward to any input/advice etc.
  9. Hi RWG, I recently picked up a Planet Ocean 42mm Ultimate (OMG0154) from Andrew of Trusty Time and am currently having a bit of a conundrum. When I first received it, I loved it; it looked great and worked really well thanks to the Swiss ETA 2824-2 movement. However, I found within closer inspection a small mark on the inside of the sapphire crystal (which the QC pics didn't show); from what I can tell it seems that it was a smudge that was a result of the AR coating applied to both sides of the crystal. This didn't bother me too much since you really had to look hard to even see it and my gen SMP 300M chronometer has a small mark from dropping it on the crystal (which is also not noticeable unless you look for it). What is really bothering me is the crown of the UPO. When I set the time initially, it took a bit to get used to the resistance of unscrewing the crown as well as screwing the crown back into the case. The other night when I finished setting the time on the UPO, I pushed in the crown and started to screw it back into the case but it pushed back out into the first position. It took a few tries and I was able to seat the crown back into the screwed down position. However, now the crown can be easily be put into the first position by touching the crown with enough force instead of unscrewing it. Now the question is, should I take this to a jeweler to have them see if they can fix it, or should I email Trusty Time to send it back and have it fixed there, or should I just leave it be? Note, that Trusty time does not do refunds or exchanges. Any input would be greatly appreciated and thank you for reading, I realize that it was a rather lengthy post.
  10. I will be purchasing my first replica (a Milgauss with green sapphire), and have two questions: 1) Which is the best choice: Asia 3131 or the Swiss ETA 2836-2 automatic mvt (gold mvt only) They are the same price. 2) On Josh's site, is the rlm00088 from the 'noob factory'? (i heard that Milgauss's from the 'noob factory' are the best replicas). Thanks.
  11. So I was given this Deep Sea as a gift by a friends who travels a lot over seas. I've had this for about a year and would like your opinion on this guy because I have been debating with my friend on whether bringing it back himself was worth the risk. I thought it looked good, but then again I am no expert. It does have good a rep helium valve, but I did not take a pic. Any help on the quality would be great. Thanks in advance!!
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