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Tudor Ranger Oysterdate - Warning Homemade Dial Again!


Slartibartfast

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I can't stop scratching this dial making itch, and have this time re-created a Tudor Oysterdate Ranger

using the now well tried and tested waterslide decal technique. Anyone who is not familiar with this

approach to dial making can see my posts by clicking on the link in my sig.

DSCF6181.jpg

The dial is printed on laserjet waterslide transfer paper. I have lumed the dial using

Revell Night Color mixed with a little acrylic paint to add tint. The dial blank comes from

a job lot I bought from Ebay. It is originally from a Pulsar :rolleyes:

DSCF6138.jpg

For the heart of this project, I have used an ETA2846 slow beat movement purchased a while back from Pugwash.

DSCF6141.jpg

I have fitted it with a red datewheel for that vintage look.

DSCF6183.jpg

I think the combination of the classic case shape on the mesh bracelet works very well.

DSCF6131.jpg

DSCF6179.jpg

Very comfy to wear. I am quite pleased with the results. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Happy Easter!

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Beautiful, and great job luming that dial! What case did you use for this project?

I bought a couple of Tudor cases from Ebay a while back.

They are actually Tudor Prince Date 'Jumbo' cases which are 38mm diameter.

Although bigger than the original Ranger, they sit very well on the wrist being the larger size.

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Wow, looks fantastic! :clapping:

How is the ink holding up over time, have you noticed any fading/peeling/etc with the first ones you made?

Hi

No problems with the originals I made. I have the Explorer Precision on my wrist at this time. The dial is a fresh as the day I printed it. No issues with the lume either.

HOWEVER....I would not like to get any moisture into one of these babies! :whistling:

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Wow, looks fantastic! :clapping:

How is the ink holding up over time, have you noticed any fading/peeling/etc with the first ones you made?

Being the lucky owner of two of these Homebrew Tudor dials (and with one of my own construction in my 6200 project) I can confirm that the dials are still 'stable' six months on, and I absolutely love them :good:

Hi

No problems with the originals I made. I have the Explorer Precision on my wrist at this time. The dial is a fresh as the day I printed it. No issues with the lume either.

HOWEVER....I would not like to get any moisture into one of these babies! :whistling:

My 6200 sprung a leak a month or so back when a lucky blow must've broke the seal of the glued in crystal, but after regluing the crystal, the watch was fine, and the dial wasn't adversely affected by the moisture :) I'm hoping to have the Tudor Sub back in rotation very soon, thanks to a new movement on the way courtesy of FXRAndy :) On the topic of the Ranger, fantastic work as always, my friend :good::drinks:

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My 6200 sprung a leak a month or so back when a lucky blow must've broke the seal of the glued in crystal, but after regluing the crystal, the watch was fine, and the dial wasn't adversely affected by the moisture :)

TeeJay, this is very interesting. I must say that I am surprised that these dials are in any way robust.

I am glad that event didn't ruin it for you, and that you are still enjoying wearing them. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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TeeJay, this is very interesting. I must say that I am surprised that these dials are in any way robust.

I am glad that event didn't ruin it for you, and that you are still enjoying wearing them. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

I have to admit, I was initially worried, but upon decasing, the dial was fine :) For some reason, the 6200 dial didn't immediately grab me when I made it, but I now really like it, and find the stick markers and numbers a nice change from the more frequently seen submariner dials :) I can't wait to get the Tudor subs back into rotation, as those're my real favorite dials, especially the non-Snowflake (I forget the model code) which you have the twin of :tu::victory:

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I can't wait to get the Tudor subs back into rotation, as those're my real favorite dials, especially the non-Snowflake (I forget the model code) which you have the twin of :tu::victory:

Cool! I recently tried a blue Tudor Sub dial from Yuki, but its so fragile, you only need to glance at the time and all the paint falls off :black_eye:

Each time the dial and movement are removed, it leaves a ring of blue where the dial was touching the case! Fortunately it's the same shade of blue as Humbrol matt blue emamel paint. In contrast, the MBW dials are absolutely =@ proof.

I'm thinking of getting another Yuki, and this time applying a few coats of matt varnish. :g:

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Cool! I recently tried a blue Tudor Sub dial from Yuki, but its so fragile, you only need to glance at the time and all the paint falls off :black_eye:

Each time the dial and movement are removed, it leaves a ring of blue where the dial was touching the case! Fortunately it's the same shade of blue as Humbrol matt blue emamel paint. In contrast, the MBW dials are absolutely =@ proof.

I'm thinking of getting another Yuki, and this time applying a few coats of matt varnish. :g:

It's funny to think that a professionally made dial would be so fragile compared to a homemade one, but I think you're right about varnish being the key... Sure, I wouldn't want to immerse one of these dials by themselves, but a little case-flood didn't do any damage to the dial :good:

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Great work!

Hey, you really should try making a 1680 red Sub dial. I've never seen a good rep/aftermarket dial. It would be really interesting to see the results.

http://images.antiquorum.com/212/full/358.jpg

http://images.antiquorum.com/213/full/357.jpg

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Great work!

Hey, you really should try making a 1680 red Sub dial. I've never seen a good rep/aftermarket dial. It would be really interesting to see the results.

http://images.antiquorum.com/212/full/358.jpg

http://images.antiquorum.com/213/full/357.jpg

Hey BT!

I have thought about this, but have no way of printing the results. I can create the dial graphics no doubt, but have no access to a colour laserjet that could print the results at the 1200dpi required.

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Hey BT!

I have thought about this, but have no way of printing the results. I can create the dial graphics no doubt, but have no access to a colour laserjet that could print the results at the 1200dpi required.

I have access to one at work. If you want to send me a file I can try and print one for you. Just let me know what sort of transfer paper I need to purchase. :D

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I have access to one at work. If you want to send me a file I can try and print one for you. Just let me know what sort of transfer paper I need to purchase. :D

Does anyone have the required dimensions for the dial?

Is the original required, or a rep equivolent?

As I don't have access to the original I have no benchmark dimensions to work from.

Maybe the "standard" rep 28.5mm sub dial is the target, but who knows?

Has anyone got any info?

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Does anyone have the required dimensions for the dial?

Is the original required, or a rep equivolent?

As I don't have access to the original I have no benchmark dimensions to work from.

Maybe the "standard" rep 28.5mm sub dial is the target, but who knows?

Has anyone got any info?

I'm pretty sure it should be coming up pretty soon from our resident experts!

Great job! :thumbsupsmileyanim: Yummy! If you ever get tired of this........................??????? you know who to PM!

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I have a 1680 re-dial, it measures 26.51mm, it's a red sub dial that was in my gen 1680 for a while 'til I went back to the white dial. I didn't measure the white dial.

1680sub2.jpg

I also measured an MBW dial, 26.20mm- they are smaller than the gens, of course.

These measurements were made w/ my chinese calipers, so the measurements could be off a little.

Nice job on the Ranger dial, Slarti.

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