Franken Vintage Seamaster 300 (165.024)

[lhooq]

It's funny how quickly you can get drawn into these projects. At the start of this month, I had just finished my Space-Dweller, but was busy sorting out my other 1016 build (still incomplete). So it's not like I needed something else to take my time and money! But I was feeling insomniac that night, so I was off to browse the auctions for items on my long-term wish list. The second-generation Seamaster 300 has been on that list for some time.

The Buy

I found the auction for this SM300: With 20 hours to go, the price was still hovering around the $200 mark with just a handful of bidders. For a vintage SM300, that was unusual, but I could see why: It was obviously a fake. They used to call these cases Vietnamese, but I'm not so sure if that's still true. It looked to be the same kind that Yuki sells.

The seller was local, so I asked if he could remove the US-only restriction on the auction. He said sure, but cautioned that there was some question about the watch's authenticity. So I responded: "I do not believe you have an original SM300. I am pretty sure that you have an aftermarket case, bezel, and dial, and I am willing to pay fairly on that basis." It turns out that this auction had caught the attention of the eager beavers at WUS-Omega, so maybe I should thank them for scaring the bidders away!

I do believe that the seller honestly thought he had a genuine Omega. Based on his transaction history, he was more of a Rolex guy and when I spoke to him, he seemed mortified at the thought that he may be selling a fake. He sounded very relieved when I took the SM300 off his hands. I met up with his messenger at the shop of my watchsmith, who looked over the Cal.552 and pronounced it to be in good working condition. I paid in cash and took my prize. Here's how it looked when I first received it:

Let's run down what's immediately wrong with it:

• 
  
  
• Dial had "stubbies" (read: minute lines that extend past the hour markers), which are all too familiar to anyone who has researched an SM300 purchase.
  
• Sweep hand was too short and unpainted.
  
• Case was polished all around, not alternatingly brushed/polished.
  
• Bezel markings were colored like pickled radishes. (Koreans call them danmuji!)
  
• Also, the crown was absent because the stem had broken (disclosed).
  

Post-Purchase Planning

Considering how many buyers this sort of watch has fooled, I had assumed that this was a 1:1 case. My early plan, then, was to replace key bits with genuine parts. A white sweep hand was a must, and that day-glo bezel had to go! However, discussions with ChiMan12, ubiquitous, and pam153, quickly revealed that this wasn't going to be as straightforward as I'd thought.

This "replacement case" is definitely NOT a 1:1 replication. The case may look like a spitting image, but the dimensions are significantly different in crucial areas like the crystal and bezel diameters. And by "significantly" I mean that you can't just trim a bit of plastic--the crystal's OD is off by 0.9mm. There was also no way to get a genuine bezel to fit without somehow adding metal to the outside of the rehaut.

Bezel Headaches

The bezel deserves special mention as it is dimensionally and functionally different from the gen. The rep turns counter-clockwise only, with 120 clicks. The gen is bidirectional with 60 clicks, ratcheted by three, sprung, ball bearings that are recessed into the case. The rep has two drilled holes, but only one of them contains a sprung roller bearing. They're really serious about cutting costs, aren't they? Gen without bezel is on the left, and the outline of the bezel teeth is clearly outlined on the case.

And here's a mash-up of the back and front of gen and rep bezels, showing the difference in construction. Gen is on the upper half:

Different dimensions, and different construction, so the bezel would have to stay. That depressed me, since I really, really hated the way it looked. It was an ugly color, and an instant tell, while replacing the insert was not a realistic option. I almost shelved this project, until I got the idea to artificially age the insert. I bought a few things from the hobby shop and started experimenting. In the end, the winning formula was unevenly applied Tamiya "Smoke" (to suggest tritium decay) buried under several layers of clearcoat. Some sanding to flatten the surface, some polishing so it wouldn't look as if it had just been sanded... done! My first-ever vintagizing job, and I'm happy with how it turned out.

Sourcing a Dial

The original dial wasn't bad, but those notorious stubbies were giving me fits. I remembered that DickBrowne had a spare SM300 cartel rep from Ubi, minus hands and a bezel. The dials on those reps looked pretty good, so I sent Richard (ahem) a PM. Speaking of "ridiculously generous", he sent the dial to me, free, even though he was hours away from going on a trip. You're a good man, Richard Browne! So I was a bit disappointed to find out just how big that dial was:

Not even close, but I had an alternative -a much more expensive Plan B- lined up. If anyone reading needs a cartel SM300 dial, or knows someone who does, please shoot me a message and I will send it by registered mail. Own a piece of RWG history with an ex-ubiquitous dial!

The Build

Here are the genuine parts I used: Crown, stem, hands, gasket, 1171/1 bracelet with 633 endlinks, and... a NOS no-date dial:

The case was refinished for the brushed/polished/satin look:

The bracelet, as mentioned previously, is an 1171/1. It's not rare, and used examples aren't expensive. It is, however, a great-looking bracelet that's very comfortable to wear. The only negative is the clasp, which is incredibly tight and punishes my fingertips whenever I open it. Lately I've become used to wearing vintage Rolex Oysters, and I forget just how much better contemporary Omega bracelets were!

The dimensions may be off, but the tall bezel and spindly lugs define the Seamaster 300:

The legendary Cal.552, which I consider one of the most beautiful, mass-produced automatics ever made. On the caseback, note the pointed 'A' on 'WATERPROOF'--this is a tell! Also note the ill-fitting, too-thick rubber gasket. This is the fault of the case, which has too shallow a groove for the O-ring. If the caseback looks like it's protruding in the other pictures, that's because it is.

On the pillow, and on the wrist. 633 endlinks are assigned to the SM300, but are not a perfect fit. I understand that this is also true for the gen. I do know that I had to sand the edges down to get it between the lugs of both this SM300 and my gen Speedmaster. I scratched up the insides of the Speedy's lugs pretty badly.

Future Upgrades?

A 20mm mesh bracelet would be a nice option, but I'm good ith the 1171 for now. Really, all that separates my PUSM300 from "NOS" status (like a Watchco) is a 166.0324 replacement case set. It's pricey, but it comes with a caseback, crystal, and the all-important bezel with lumed markers. If you haven't seen a NOS SM300 at night, believe me, it's a thing of beauty. But I can wait.

I'm happy with how this watch turned out, and it seems to have scratched my SM300 itch. Now I just have to stay off eBay tonight...

[redwatch]

Man you are turning out some absolutely beautiful frankens LHOOQ! That is a stunning dial! Any chance of a lume shot of that beauty?

[Jkay]

fantastic photos, as well.

[JBond]

Wow very nice project !

[dluddy]

That's a work of art. Thanks for sharing the journey

[lhooq]

Thanks, guys! It's a great watch to photograph, but even better to wear!

Red, the lume on the replacement dial/hands is amazing, and better than anything else in my collection. (I assume it's similar to what you get on genuine Planet Ocean bits.) If it gets just a bit of sun, it glows brightly even indoors.

Shame about the bezel and its "depleted tritium"!

[valerian]

Fabulous project, sensational pictures!

Thanks for posting this, very inspiring!

Val.

[boneventura]

Next to the beautiful watch, I really enjoyed reading your story. Congrats on this piece!

[Eton]

That's amazing M, wow!!!

Your photo skills are top notch!

[Nanuq]

Another one of my favorite vintages. Magnificent. Let's not call this a "fake", rather a non-varietal

[lhooq]

Another one of my favorite vintages. Magnificent. Let's not call this a "fake", rather a non-varietal

"Non-varietal"? That's the kind with anti-freeze, right?

[krpster]

Great project and amazing results. I think the bezel actually looks pretty good now after your "vintagizing'. Well done!

[tmg]

Wow, well done sir and great post-wear it well!

[lhooq]

Some of you might have noticed that the bracelet was worn smooth, to the point of being polished. (Alternatively, it might have been polished by the previous owner!) For example, check out the reflection of the movement on the clasp.

Initially, I found this to be a nice bit of patina that suggested an older piece. After second and third glances, I think it looks a bit tatty and a mismatch with the rest of the watch, most notably the brand-new endlinks. So I asked my watchsmith for a correction:

Getting better!

[redwatch]

Now that looks excellent! Very nice and subtle change, but it completely changes the overall look of the watch! Good call!

[FxrAndy]

I like that!

I like that soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much!

Enjoy and let me know when you are bored of it!

[highoeyazmuhudee]

nice!

[alligoat]

Beautiful job, M. And great story, what a fantastic narrative.

[Jimster]

Great work on one of my favorite watches. Now hunt for the 166.024 date version to make it a pair.

[ubiquitous]

I have to say... This turned out ridiculously awesome! The tall bezel and crystal gives the look of an SM300 on steroids I dig it! And the aged insert looks amazing!

Another job well done LHOOQ!

[HauteHippie]

Ya, this thing is HOT. Really sweet watch, and an awesome post to share the details of what must have been a very fun and rewarding project!

[lhooq]

Thanks, all! I'm very happy with this watch at present, other than two minor complaints: First, I need to find a thinner, wider gasket so that the caseback can screw down completely. Should I just buy one of those big bags of assorted gaskets and hope for the best? Second, the endlink fit isn't perfect. Unfortunately, I can't just bend them, since they fit perfectly on my gen Speedmaster. I either have to choose one watch for the 1171, or (more likely) I'm just going to buy another pair of 633s!

I have to say... This turned out ridiculously awesome! The tall bezel and crystal gives the look of an SM300 on steroids I dig it!

I've been mulling over buying a 166.0234 replacement case, but that's the strongest argument against doing so. The rep case profile is terrific, and is arguably more recognizable as an SM300 than an actual SM300! If I do go "full NOS" I might attempt it with a different movement--probably a Cal. 565.

[dluddy]

Keep coming back to this one. Really came out nicely LH

[GBOGH]

Nicely done M!

[woof*]

Little side note in history: M did indeed buy the new case for this watch, and transferred his Omega parts to his new case. He has a wonderful writeup and pictorial of that watch too somewhere..

I was fortunate to be able to adopt his case set ...and with his help, collect all the parts to build my very own sm300