ww12345 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 So I'm about ready to start on a pre-5512/5513 Submariner project, and wondered if there was a consensus on the best cases to use. Not really into the Yuki price range, and will probably go with an ETA, so which case would be recommended? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Pre-5512/13 = 6536/6538~5508/10 ??? On the budget side there were Silix cases. Or you can check out helenrou or rafflestime, but their dial size requirement is larger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Either one... I'd like a big crown, but I wouldn't mind a small crown either. Whichever would be the easiest to start (since I know there's no real decent case until you get into Yuki/NDT territory). Is Silix OK? I thought they required larger dials too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 I've seen some killer builds lately with Helenarou stuff.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogladio Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 I've seen some killer builds lately with Helenarou stuff.... +1, very good considering the price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Hmmm. Yeah, I guess I'll look into those cases. I assume they can use gen spec dials? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Is this the case people were thinking about?http://www.helenarou.com/6538-homage-connery-bond-sub-watch-kit-raf-strap-for-eta-2836-65382836.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradBMW Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 I didn't see any 1680 cases on that website. Aren't 5512/3 and 1680 different cases? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobandshawn Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 I just bought the Helenarou for a grail build...takes a 29mm dial. Noticed too late that there are no lug engravings, and the case is not that softened in real life. I also had to tweak that movement holder to work with a 2836 (things were too tight and would be cocked). If I had to do it again I would have just stayed with the Silix and go with an aftermarket crown. BIG price difference, and considering all the "tells" not really worth the extra cash (to me). Best, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Bummer - good thing I didn't order one. I went with a Silix case instead... It turned out OK - Big Dazza dial and white lollipop second hand, Clarks hour and minute hands, rep 8mm crown and tube, Clarks T19, ETA 2879, drilled to 2mm springbars and Yuki stretch 6636 bracelet (labeled 7206). Overall, pretty good. Pictures later tonight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike on a bike Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Anyone look at Tiger case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobandshawn Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Is this the Tiger case Mike? I'm looking to start a new 5513 build myself... http://www.tiger-concept.com/7928/7928a-bracelet.html B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 No one can accuse me of knowing what I am talking about but from my sometimes disappointing experiences with vintage submariner cases...imho you are better off to spend the money for a higher quality case that will accept genuine spec dials, crystals, bezels/inserts, case tubes/crowns, and crystals. Why? Because high quality out of spec parts are very, very hard to find. Especially dials. For Eta powered projects...MBK cases are fine but the 5513 and 1680 cases are made for 26.0mm dials so a 26.5mm genspec 1680 dial will have the minute markers partially covered. The stock MBK 1680 dial is not too bad if you can find one but some are very rough around the edges from being ground down to fit the smaller 5512/13 dial seat. If you find a DW case and decide to use it for a 5512/13 project, remember that they are all made for 26.5mm dials. At least all mine were (8 or 9 of them). Read up on DW cases before jumping in. Read up on DW too before you order a case. I have wasted a LOT of time and effort trying to make mismatched parts go together and if anyone wants one good 'keeper' watch, it is better to go 'first class' the first time around. 'First class' to me means maybe a Yuki case for genuine movement projects and MBK for Eta projects. Silix etc cartel cases are probably Ok but I never tried one. Why Yuki and MBK? Only because I have had good luck with them. There are 'better' cases available of course (J&W, MQ etc) but they cost a LOT more and almost no one can tell the difference. Please remember I am talking about a 'keeper' here and not a 'quickie' to wear a while and flip off into the sunset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Excellent points, automatico. In my experience you first pick out the dial you want to use. Then you buy the best case you can find/afford for that dial size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rg500 Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 I've just finished this budget build based on a silix bought in m2m over on the other RWG. Wanted to see if I liked it enough to do a higher budget build using a spare gen cal 1030 I have. Softened the case, mild ageing, shaved the crystal height and installed a HR gilt dial and hand set. I ruined the original bezel insert with over zealous ageing so put this insert on from a sub rep I bought more than 15 years ago in Malaysia... Font is all wrong but it has aged nicely and with a quick bleaching looks nicely vintage in the flesh with a faint blue tinge to the colour... Got a replacement insert on the way but might leave as is. When I had finished it I asked the wife what she thought and she just said "it's all right but it looks like an old watch... Can't you polish it up to look a bit better?" Mission accomplished :-) Ian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotrick Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Automatico no one has mentioned Ingod's 6538 case. I like his 4-liner dial, how do you think his case stacks up to Yuki, NDT, Phong? No one can accuse me of knowing what I am talking about but from my sometimes disappointing experiences with vintage submariner cases...imho you are better off to spend the money for a higher quality case that will accept genuine spec dials, crystals, bezels/inserts, case tubes/crowns, and crystals. Why? Because high quality out of spec parts are very, very hard to find. Especially dials. For Eta powered projects...MBK cases are fine but the 5513 and 1680 cases are made for 26.0mm dials so a 26.5mm genspec 1680 dial will have the minute markers partially covered. The stock MBK 1680 dial is not too bad if you can find one but some are very rough around the edges from being ground down to fit the smaller 5512/13 dial seat. If you find a DW case and decide to use it for a 5512/13 project, remember that they are all made for 26.5mm dials. At least all mine were (8 or 9 of them). Read up on DW cases before jumping in. Read up on DW too before you order a case. I have wasted a LOT of time and effort trying to make mismatched parts go together and if anyone wants one good 'keeper' watch, it is better to go 'first class' the first time around. 'First class' to me means maybe a Yuki case for genuine movement projects and MBK for Eta projects. Silix etc cartel cases are probably Ok but I never tried one. Why Yuki and MBK? Only because I have had good luck with them. There are 'better' cases available of course (J&W, MQ etc) but they cost a LOT more and almost no one can tell the difference. Please remember I am talking about a 'keeper' here and not a 'quickie' to wear a while and flip off into the sunset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiman12 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Yuki 6538 cases have a very wokky rehaut. I would put your money elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Never had an IG44 6538 case. I have an IG44 1680 case that I got from another member and it is well made but has a 'canoe' lug shape when viewed from the side. It looks more like an early 1680 than the later models we are used to. The lug shape would not be noticed at all when wearing the watch and the overall quality is first class. When I see genuine 5512/13 and 1680 with beat up corroded cases and ratty dials/hands priced at $6k and up, it is easy to understand why Frankensteins are popular. I can not understand why anyone would want an old $6k dive watch that fogs up every time you walk out of an air conditioned building into the summer heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Are you saying buying a vintage 1680, 5512, 5513 or even a vintage 1675 would be a bad purchase? I only ask because I would like to eventually get a gen 1675 and a gen 1680 and/or 5513 someday. There is a significant age range with these, and I have found some really nice looking ones from the 1968 era all the way up through the late 1970s and very early 1980s in the case of the 5513. Would something from the late 1970s be an overall better purchase than something from 1968/69 if the price were the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogladio Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 When I see genuine 5512/13 and 1680 with beat up corroded cases and ratty dials/hands priced at $6k and up, it is easy to understand why Frankensteins are popular. I can not understand why anyone would want an old $6k dive watch that fogs up every time you walk out of an air conditioned building into the summer heat. Isn't that the sought after untouched patina, that's so sought after these days? After sent in to service, the ratty hands and dials end up in franken builds while the owners cry all the way to the bank with the two words "service lumi" ringing in their heads. No, but seriously - wouldn't new o-rings and greasing solve most of the waterproofing issues or are "all" old watches to give up on in that sense (say passing >=10atm/100m)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) Yes, wouldn't a new plexi plus new o-rings/greasing in the case back and crown/tube solve the problem? Speaking of ratty hands and dials, which is more appealing? Service replacement hands and dial on a vintage watch or original hands and dial on the same watch? Should one be priced more than the other? I ask because I see both sitting side by side from the same general era, yet both are priced the same. Wouldn't the one with service replacement dial and hands be worth less? Or is it worth more because it is "upgraded" to modern standards? Sort of a "one person's trash is another person's treasure" sort of scenario? Edited July 29, 2014 by Mendota Explorer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Older 15xx powered rolex watches are fine if the case is not rotted out but I see more and more for sale that are basically junk (imho) with a like new price tag. 'Patina' is one thing...corrosion is another. New O rings will not fix corrosion. The only fix is laser welding and it is expensive. Sometimes you can machine the gasket area on the case/case back but you will need a thicker gasket to make up for it and if it is an O ring, you would have to go wider too. Not an easy fix. Dials and hands with missing radium and tritium are hard to fix too. The reason many late comers to the rolex game want their 'tool watches' to look the part is so they can appear to others to be a Tuff Guy who has been on dangerous adventures. Many of them were not even born when the watches were in use. Posers. Otoh I guess I am a poser too for wearing a Frankenstein. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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